ScottWright Posted October 10, 2016 Share Posted October 10, 2016 I decided that the easiest way to get a good grind down with files was the gough jig after some research both on google and here. Today I decided to build and test it out. Not finished filing but I did give it a go on a rr spike I just finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenneth Mauldin Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 How do you like it?I made one, wasn't a big fan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifford Brewer Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 I've been looking to make one myself as the cost of a 2"x72" build is out of reach for now on a disability income, some feedback on it would be appreciated........ If ya can't be good don't git caught !! People who say stuff can't be done need to git the hell outta the way of people who do stuff !!! Show me a man who is called an expert by his peers And I will show you a good man to listen to ...... Show me a man who calls himself an expert and I will show you an egotistical asshole...............!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Hewitt Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 I've made a few of these as give aways for a few new knifemakers. I very quickly stopped using wood and moved on to using mild steel. The wood is too flexible and doesn't give repeatable results, the guide holes wear, etc. Make a tee piece from two bits of scrap steel by bolting or welding and drill a hole big enough to take a six inch eye bolt at the end opposite the tee. With two nuts and washers this will be your height adjustment for the guide rod. Across the tee section superglue a thin piece of steel, thinner than your blade steel, to act as a repeatable stop for your blade. Using a pair of vice grips, clamp your blade to the tee section, put the rod with the file attached through the eye bolt and use the nuts and washers to adjust for height to give you the bevel angle. With a bit of fiddling, some masking tape and a few pencil marks, you can produce as many blades as you like, all with a repeatable bevel. I've probably not explained this too well, but if anybody would like pictures of a finished jig I'll try and get some up later. It's too early here to do it now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P. Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 (edited) I think using a jig in this way is crazy. You need to trust your own capacities more. Your eye and instinct are (along with the rest of your body) the most valuable tools in the shop. They can't be bought, they must be nurtured and developed. Edited October 11, 2016 by Dan P. 1 http://www.prendergastknives.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Rudd Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 I built one because my harbor freight 4X36 gives inconsistent hand grinding results. I will learn to do bevels by hand once I build a 2X72. in the mean time this jig works pretty good and gives consistent width on bevels, mostly because I have it screwed down to my table front and back. I also go nice slow even strokes when pushing the file. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P. Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 One thing you can do with a 4" carpentry type belt sander is split the belts in two (or more). You can also rig some kind of shim between the belt and platen to lift the belt up a little to give more versatility. I started with such a sander myself. They're not ideal but there are ways to maximise their usefulness. 1 http://www.prendergastknives.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor J. Myers-Norton Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 I find that a 4" sander is great for even flat grinds, but that's just me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan P. Posted October 11, 2016 Share Posted October 11, 2016 I find that a 4" sander is great for even flat grinds, but that's just me This too! http://www.prendergastknives.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Rudd Posted October 12, 2016 Share Posted October 12, 2016 I find that a 4" sander is great for even flat grinds, but that's just me it's probably my unskilled hands, I will practice more and post results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fergal Fleming Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 (edited) I've just knocked up one of these jigs and had a go with it too (first knife. Well, technically my second, but we don't talk about number one...). It seemed to work pretty well, but I had a bit of trouble getting the plunge lines even. I think I'll just blend them. Edited October 13, 2016 by Fergal Fleming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert D. Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 On your file, did you get one that has smooth sides, or did you grind off the teeth on the sides? When I first started, I used one of these jigs as well, worked very well, but I had similar issues with lining up the plunge lines, one side would cut just slightly further in then the other, and had a slightly different shape. in my instance, it was the file teeth on the side of the file causing it. I found that by grinding the teeth all the way off to flat metal, and using the stop bolt to help line the file up before filing, allowed me to get them much MUCH closer lined up to nearly perfect. http://robertjamescustoms.tumblr.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Stephens Posted October 13, 2016 Share Posted October 13, 2016 I too had the same issues as Robert. One thing I did extra was to put threaded inserts into the holes to make it last longer and it worked well. But still, Its hand filing and it gave me the nudge to finish my 2X72 belt grinder The finest steel has to go through the hottest fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottWright Posted October 13, 2016 Author Share Posted October 13, 2016 Still haven't had a chnace to finish my file work. I work nights so I usually only get to work on weekends but I rounded my edges off to avoid it getting caught when working it laterally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fergal Fleming Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 (edited) On your file, did you get one that has smooth sides, or did you grind off the teeth on the sides? When I first started, I used one of these jigs as well, worked very well, but I had similar issues with lining up the plunge lines, one side would cut just slightly further in then the other, and had a slightly different shape. in my instance, it was the file teeth on the side of the file causing it. I found that by grinding the teeth all the way off to flat metal, and using the stop bolt to help line the file up before filing, allowed me to get them much MUCH closer lined up to nearly perfect. I reckon that might be part (or even most) of the issue. I was in a bit of a hurry to get started, and while one side is ground perfectly smooth, the other one is only mostly smooth. I also put a slight radius on the corners, which may have been a mistake, as I doubt these unskilled hands created two identical radii :-) Edit: I don't mean to jack your thread, Scott. I just thought I might chip in because I've just made Gough jig too :-) Edited October 14, 2016 by Fergal Fleming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottWright Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 No I'm new here and don't mind everything in read is more knowledge everyday I'm seeing more that makes me want to work even more at this. So hijack away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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