parsha Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 Making a small persian style knife. I had a somewhat brilliant idea for the guard and leave it to you guys to figure out how I have done it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Colwell Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 brazed? that is what I would do to attach those things. Way back when, David Boye (if I spelled his last name right) would use brazing or high temp silver solder (which is really a sort of brazing) to attach guards prior to heat treatment. If the solder or braze melts above 1500 and the heat treatment of the knife requires 1450 to 14 75, then you can do it. You just have to be careful to not overheat the guard area. Anyway, two pieces of metal brazed together, that is my guess. I am not sure at all, though. I have been fabricating fittings for a Chinese sword, (Ming jian) and they were all brazed together from sheet back then. So, I have done more brazing in the last week than most do in a year (unless you make jewelry, in which case you do a ton of hard solder work). Creative. I am eager to see where this one goes. I like the grind with a ridge in the middle that one sees on some of the Persian designs. Is this one going to be flat grind or with a medial ridge? Outstanding start! please visit my website http://www.professorsforge.com/ “Years ago I recognized my kinship with all living things, and I made up my mind that I was not one bit better than the meanest on the earth. I said then and I say now, that while there is a lower class, I am in it; while there is a criminal element, I am of it; while there is a soul in prison, I am not free.” E. V. Debs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacKINNON Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 Angle iron folded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parsha Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 Spot on MacKinnon!! It's made from 1mm thick angle iron. I had thought a long time of making a guard like this but couldn't find any tutorial to do it or examples of such guards.So I gave it a try. Kevin I am planning to do a ridge grind but the top edge will not be up to the guard as the blade length is just 4 inches Next step will be to file bevels and drill holes for pinning the guard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BCROB Posted October 20, 2016 Share Posted October 20, 2016 cool , keep the pics coming , any from the start ? I like this stuff "Never Quit On Improving" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parsha Posted October 20, 2016 Author Share Posted October 20, 2016 Thanks for the appreciation BCROB. Unfortunately I have not taken any progress pictures while making the guard. If this works out well I will make a WIP for the guard. It's pretty simple actually, considering the work showcased by some makers here... CHEERS !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parsha Posted October 22, 2016 Author Share Posted October 22, 2016 Filing bevels on both sides almost done.now to drill pin holes and will be doing a clay coat quench in oil after this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parsha Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 I did the clay coat on the blade but some of the clay towards the handle end did not hold and fell off. The clay has developed small cracks after drying.pressed down hard with my hands but it won't fall off. Will it be ok to proceed to quench at this stage? Or remove and redo the clay coat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor J. Myers-Norton Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 as long as it doesn't fall off it should do fine, but the cracks can leave areas where the oil can get under the clay and undo all of your hard work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parsha Posted October 24, 2016 Author Share Posted October 24, 2016 Will take your advise and redo the clay coat Connor. The clay mask composition I am using is courtesy of Dave Friesen. 1:1:1 proportions of clay,fine ground sand and charcoal power with some iron powder.This time I will increase the quantity of clay a little which might prevent cracking after drying. Are there any more factors which will reduce cracks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor J. Myers-Norton Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 You can add a bit of hardwood ash, which should increase elasticity and adhesion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Longmire Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Very thin layers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Colwell Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 thin, although little cracks like that, if it is still solidly adhered, won't affect heat treatment. It still insulates plenty. looking forward to seeing what happens next. kc please visit my website http://www.professorsforge.com/ “Years ago I recognized my kinship with all living things, and I made up my mind that I was not one bit better than the meanest on the earth. I said then and I say now, that while there is a lower class, I am in it; while there is a criminal element, I am of it; while there is a soul in prison, I am not free.” E. V. Debs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parsha Posted October 25, 2016 Author Share Posted October 25, 2016 Added some ash to the mix though i am not sure if it is hardwood ash and adjusted the proportion of clay. While applying the clay I put 3 thin alternating layers on each side of the blade.Keeping my fingers crossed. Will update results soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Colwell Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 keep us in the loop, this is cool! please visit my website http://www.professorsforge.com/ “Years ago I recognized my kinship with all living things, and I made up my mind that I was not one bit better than the meanest on the earth. I said then and I say now, that while there is a lower class, I am in it; while there is a criminal element, I am of it; while there is a soul in prison, I am not free.” E. V. Debs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parsha Posted October 28, 2016 Author Share Posted October 28, 2016 Woo hoo!!! Managed to do this at the third attempt.thin layers is the trick...I know I know...you guys already told me so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parsha Posted October 30, 2016 Author Share Posted October 30, 2016 Hi guys.The hardening went well. Started to clean up the blade and would like to kow how to polish the blade to see if there is any hamon A shot of the blade with the guard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Colwell Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 a pass or two along a good, sharp 36 grit belt will show whether there is a hamon to start with. Just run across it with a good bit of pressure and look at the now-clean blade bevel. The hamon, if there, will be ghostly white. It is a cool trick. Polish:1. Keep cool but make sure you have tempered the blade well. 2. Belt sand flat and carefully up to 400 grit. 3. start at 45 degrees to blade with 220 grit rhnowet redline 4. proceed through all grits, changing angles until 800. 5. with 1000 grit, go lengthwise. Wrap the paper around your backing object (I use hardened steel). The more you wrap the paper, the more of a pad there is. Only use on wrap where you are touching a ridgeline where bevels meet to keep crisp. Everywhere else, use more wraps, to convex the edge (I should have said this in the beginning. ooops). 6. After 2000 grit, etch for about 30 minutes to an hour in vinegar (or rub for 10 minutes with lime or lemon juice). Carefully remove the oxides with 1500 grit silicon carbide abrasive powder, or even better Rotten Stone (Rotten Stone is not hard enough to change/polish the hardened steel, but it will cut the soft stuff). You are trying to accentuate the little mountain range of topography that is happening at the transition between hard and soft steel and within the hamon itself). 7. Repeat 6, about 5 times. 8. for the last time, be sure to go over the hamon part of the blade carefully with silicon carbide powder, and very short strokes with nothing but powder under your fingers. At most you can use a leather pad glued to a popsicle stick to protect your fingers from the blade. 9. For the unhardened part of the blade, experiment, you can use the silicon carbide, 2500 grit paper, or Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. See which one gets you the finish you want. If paper, remember to make each stroke full length without stopping to avoid hooks and swirls. Paper is hard to use here (also, put a pad or wrap a lot of paper under it). There, that will be a few hours of delight! DON"T use Ferric Chloride, it is too strong, and will not get the white frosty look to the hamon as well as vinegar or lime or lemon juice. I have no idea why, but the difference is striking. Let us know how it comes out. kc please visit my website http://www.professorsforge.com/ “Years ago I recognized my kinship with all living things, and I made up my mind that I was not one bit better than the meanest on the earth. I said then and I say now, that while there is a lower class, I am in it; while there is a criminal element, I am of it; while there is a soul in prison, I am not free.” E. V. Debs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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