Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  
Sign in to follow this  
ScottWright

HSS in blade

Recommended Posts

So I am going to be making my revenge knife incorporating the blade that took part of my finger. I don't know what the qualities of high speed steel really are. I was thinking of cutting it and welding a billet with some 1095 but wasn't sure if maybe a san mai design would be better suited for the steel. Any help as always is greatly appreciated thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The properties of hss probably won't allow you to forge weld it to anything, much less forge it in general. From what I hear, it likes to crumble while being forged. :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Forging HSS is an outright bitch, the heat window to forge it is tighter

than a cats ass with it's nards caught in a no. 2 victor trap, but if you figger it out let me know .... ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is stock removal a viable process for it or will the hardness be more trouble than it is worth?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When you buy hss it mostly will be delivered in annealed state, easy to file and grind.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Planer blades are usually D2 rather than HSS, so stock removal is a viable thing. It will be tough to grind, and keep it cool!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you can't forge it into your blade, as an option you could always inlay pieces of it into your handle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Planer blades are usually D2 rather than HSS, so stock removal is a viable thing. It will be tough to grind, and keep it cool!

 

I've also heard of 440 (who knows which grade) and even A2 being used on some imports.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good old (hard!) mystery steel it is! Whatever it is, stock removal and keeping it cool will yield a decent blade, given the application it was used for to begin with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been mulling it over and may make a draw with it. Trying to figure which would be the nicest cleanest way to weld the handles on first

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welding is a bad idea unless you are very experienced with that sort of electric welding. High-alloy high carbon steels really don't like it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×