Jump to content
Florian F Fortner

Universal Scraping Tool

Recommended Posts

The scrapers that have been posted so far all have the handle in the plane of the blade. This design is, however, not very suitable to apply even pressure in the lateral direction (prone to left-right wobbling) and the tracking of the scraped line is not that good. 

I built a new one that has balls of steel - handles on either side of the tool, a universal slot that can take lathe bits and self made tools made of pieces of old files and a guide on either side that is free of any wobbling (made of brass to conserve the U-profile that holds the blade).

With this tool it's possible to make fullers (even double or triple fullers as common in rapiers, which need very high precision), hollow-scrape blade bevels, and the fuller-like hollow shapes in the ricasso of rapiers and swords (up to a certain width only, I doubt it will work over 20mm width).

In the following pictures I am doing a parallel fuller (the WIP of this rapier will come up shortly) which tapers along the length, yet stays parallel with just a slight ridge between the fullers. For this the blade is clamped at a slight angle on the jig. This jig is actually the same I use for all grinding, it has adjusting screws every 10cm, to level out the distal taper and ensure that the blade lies down flat on the surface.

P1070578.JPGP1070579.JPGP1070580.JPG

 

To have a crisp end of the fuller, I just clamp a mechanical stop onto the jig, so the scraper will always stop in the same spot.

P1070581.JPG

Edited by Florian F Fortner
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice idea.  Thanks for sharing it. I am going to have to try something similar.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent modification!  Thanks for posting it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like it. That's looks very useful. Share a video of it in action :-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice, I love the accuracy of it.  I assume the cutting edge is oriented at 90°?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 After doing more swords with different fuller demands I modified the device a bit. Now with the help of brass spacers, I can offset the chisel sideways, which is helpful for multiple fullers. The chisel made out of old files cut a lot better than industrial lathe bits. The ideal chisel blade angle is about 70°, a lot more than lathe bits. So the scraper can be held horizontally, which is easier to maintain.

 

P1070968.JPGP1070969.JPGP1070970.JPG 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great, I hope you don't mind if I make one identical! The highest form of flattery and all that :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone ever tried using one of these for the same purpose? I was going to build one, but if this works, why not?

I suppose there's no centering features built in, but that seems easy to add with a few tapped holes and angle iron.

https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-468334-Router-Ductile-Hardness/dp/B07GW7X35P/ref=asc_df_B07GW7X35P/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4012042591667662875&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003322&hvtargid=pla-569147430190&psc=1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, AJ Chalifoux said:

Has anyone ever tried using one of these for the same purpose? I was going to build one, but if this works, why not?

I suppose there's no centering features built in, but that seems easy to add with a few tapped holes and angle iron.

https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-468334-Router-Ductile-Hardness/dp/B07GW7X35P/ref=asc_df_B07GW7X35P/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763890402&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4012042591667662875&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003322&hvtargid=pla-569147430190&psc=1

It's the same basic concept, though that cutter would need modifications to cut annealed steel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Plus I don't think that one offers enough support to prevent blade chatter.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

True. There are larger ones that look more stable, but with more expense and having to adapt bits to work, at what point is it not worth it anymore?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that point is when you realize it would be cheaper and easier to make it from scratch.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...