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Chris C-S

50mm x 1830mm Grinder

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Hi All, please see my first grinder build below. 

I couldn't help myself with the title, sorry, its a 2" x 72" for all of you(all a y'all) in 'MURICA.

I will add some commentary and images below. I will start with some caveats. 1. This is my first ever fabrication job, and second ever time welding. 2. I quiet literally poured sweat, tears and blood, lots of blood, into this build (see post in safety section). and 3. It was done with what I had and what I could afford. So with all these caveats, please understand i know there are better ways of doing things. Not including belts i am into this project for about $250AUD. This was for a new motor, pillow blocks and bearings and the skate board wheels and bearings. 

I have run it this morning after finishing the flat platen, despite being on bed rest from surgery on Monday, i couldn't help myself. So close to the finish. First whip and it works great. Shreds metal like nothing I've seen before. Some kinks to work out, especially on the tension are. I will explain further down. 

I would like your constructive criticism on this project and feedback is always welcome. @Wes Detrick 

Now, ive been ordered back to the couch by the wife and neighbors. Enjoy. :) 

IMAG2851.jpg steel used for the build. 50mm and 40mm tube with 4mm walls. 

IMAG2852.jpg welded body of grinder and combo tensioning/tracking arm assembly. 

IMAG2853.jpg IMAG2891.jpghere is the tensioning and tracking arm in place.

Now the large gaps between the tubing is causing me some tracking issues. I originally tried to epoxy some nylon washers on as shims at they were too thick and being stubborn i just sheared them off and have done nothing about it. I am considering placing in some shims made from a milk bottle and seeing if this will work better. 

IMAG2890.jpgIMAG2889.jpg This is the drive live assemble. Stepped gears are from an old drill press lying around at work. 

100mm MDF drive wheel on 25mm shaft. Runs from, and you can quote this, Very fast to slow and 3 differing speeds in between. The motor is a 2 HP 2800RMP 240v single phase. 

IMAG2885.jpgIMAG2887.jpgIMAG2886.jpgIMAG2888.jpg

 

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Hey Chris,

YES!  It's almost done.  And honestly, my fab skills suck ass too, so I am totally of the school of thought that "if it works, does what I want and does what I want, I don't care about anything else."

How does the tension work?  Does the pipe raise up and down?  I would imagine that having that pipe not be tight fighting would also mess with the tensioning.  Typically, you will see a spring or a hydraulic prop used to provide tension.  Doing it that way makes changing out belts quick and painless.

Otherwise, I am glad you are getting it done.  Don't mess your leg up more though.  Listen to the missus, they live longer for a reason.

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Hi Wes, there is a compression spring under the smaller post which slips inside the other. Plate welded on the bottom to provide the resistance. It's got quite a lot of tension to it. So to quick change belts push down on post and slip belt off. Once it has full tension on it I rotated it square to remove the play and it holds in place and tracks better, I just want a more permanent solution. Hence the shim idea. Thanks for your question. :-)

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