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Jon Cook

Extending dry time on CA glue

5 posts in this topic

I'm making a kiridashi with ipe/birch scales. After some searching, I found you pretty much have to use CA glue on ipe, which is working great so far. The stuff I got is hardcore. My only problem is the 5 second dry time.

Pure acetone makes this stuff act like half-dry school glue until it evaporates. Which got me thinking, maybe I can use acetone to extend the dry time for the final fit up.

Anybody know if this will work, or should I suck it up and drink 300 cups of coffee before I attempt using it straight? 

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Some of the gel CA glues cure a little slower.

One thing that many people don't understand about CA is that it only cures once you take away the oxygen.  Sitting in a puddle with plenty of air around, it will stay liquid for days.  You should be able to coat your joints at your leisure, and then only rush the actual joining of the parts.

Edit: OK, the stuck out part may not be true.  I was told CA was an anaerobic curing adhesive many years ago in my first job.  After posting I went to look for details, and that doesn't seem to be true, although my lifetime of observations never made me question it before.  I have certainly used a vacuum to cure CA glue in large gaps.  

Edited by Brian Dougherty

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Thanks for the feedback, Brian.

From what I've read, CA should cure when exposed to water. I wonder how vacuum works with that process?

My big concern is that adding acetone would result in a permanently weaker bond.

I did find a long cure time gel from loctite. I may have to go that route.

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It's a long time since I last used it, but Slo-Zap CA used to be very good for positioning/adjustment time. Not silly money either.

I felt that 20 seconds was about what you safely had to get stuff located, perhaps 30 seconds if the planets aligned, 

Of course, if you got things positioned quickly, it seemed to take a couple of aeons to stick. 

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