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Doug Crawford

8" Gyuto-y Chef

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A little late with the photos, just got this heat treated, 1084 tempered to approx. 60 HRC- 8" blade, 2" wide, 5" handle

 

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Like that shape Doug. Be nice to see some more as it progresses. 

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Got the post-HT grinding done- polishing next. Will probably end with a 600ish grit satin finish

 

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Nice doug, good too see something in MM for a change :P 

Going to be a laser edge i see. Carefull after hand sanding that edge might become wicked sharp... 

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Oh yea I've nicked my finger a couple times when hand sanding. Here's a preview of the handle scales, Ceylon Rosewood

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Handle glued up- in the home stretch now

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First coat of oil went on the handle- wood came to life- it shimmers

 

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.

Edited by Doug Crawford

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testing the edge- turned out pretty good

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Nice Doug. Thanks for sharing. The edge sounds a little 'toothy' when going through that tom. No doubt its sharp, but care to share your sharpening technique? 

Someone will be stoked to get this knife. 

Cheers. 

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I guess it's fairly standard, I set the initial angle with a 300 grit diamond stone, go nuts on one side until it looks about halfway done- then work the other side until I can feel the wire edge all the way down, then go back and forth about 10 strokes on each side for a bit. After that work on a 600 grit diamond stone, 10 strokes back and forth, making sure to get the wire edge on each side the whole way down- then reduce the number of stokes until I'm going back and forth, one on each side. After that the Belgian blue stone, and a Zulu stone which is probably superfluous. Ends with the leather strop. 

Im still fairly new to all this- just passed my 1 year mark since my first knife. I think my biggest flaw in the sharpening process is not keeping the exact same angle in the stroke each time. I can feel when it happens. 

 

Also had another oddity happen- a few days after getting the handle finished, the scales shrunk a bit. Now the tang and the scales aren't perfectly flush- it didn't happen right away either- no clue what caused that.

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Was the wood stabalised? And i am guessing you took it out of the workshop and into the house? Different atmospheric conditions, humidity etc etc can cause wood to do its thing. Even after its dead it still has a life of its own. 

I too am a novice at all this, maybe 6 months in and only 2 blades down. However i have sharpened a heap of kitchen knives of my own, friends and work colleagues. 

I use a Scary Sharp system to get to 1000g and then move onto my 1000 and 6000 wet stones. It takes some time, and gets a killer edge on my kitchen knives. Anyway, i am sure there is a whole set of threads about sharpening somewhere, and i didn't intend to hijack the thread or anything. I was just interested in your method. 

Thanks for sharing. 

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Not stabilized correct- everything I've used so far hasn't been and this is the first time I've had any shrinking. The scales did sit inside for a few days after cutting them from the block- got everything shaped and polished, then started with the boiled linseed treatment. 3 days of oiling and I was pretty sure that was enough, about 24 hours later and it shrunk. No cracking or anything

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Looks like I won't be around for the drawing- I am getting called out of town for work for a month. I'll be back on June 30th. I don't know how this usually works, do I pull out of the drawing or does everything go as usual and I ship it out when I get back?

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I'd say just ship your knife when you get back.  I was on vacation during the drawing last year, and just shipped my knife when I got home.

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39 minutes ago, Timothy Artymko said:

I agree, you and your knife are worthy of being accepted, so I am ok with it being shipped a little late.

That makes sense, you are the one who got my knife late last year :D

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On 5/22/2017 at 8:25 PM, Doug Crawford said:

Not stabilized correct- everything I've used so far hasn't been and this is the first time I've had any shrinking. The scales did sit inside for a few days after cutting them from the block- got everything shaped and polished, then started with the boiled linseed treatment. 3 days of oiling and I was pretty sure that was enough, about 24 hours later and it shrunk. No cracking or anything

A couple of things to remember when using epoxy to hold scales to a full tang blade.

1. Epoxy doesn't like to stick to oily surfaces. Don't oil the scales until they are glued to the tang.

2. Epoxy doesn't like to stick to smooth surfaces. Rough up the mating surfaces of both the scales and the tang with a 50 or 60 grit belt on a wheel or a drum on a Dremel tool. Leave a small (1/16" to 3/32") smooth lip around the perimeter of the scale and tang to give the illusion of flush mating surfaces, but have a hollow in the center of both the tang and the scale. This gives the epoxy some body and large surface area to bond to.

That's a good looking knife Doug.

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Thats idd a nice knife, just got in the mail today, very light and sharp. Thanks Doug and Gabriel for sending !

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Hi! I'm glad you like it and everything got to you ok- sorry I couldn't send it myself, working on a boat keeps me away from mail quite a bit :)

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