Jump to content

Recommended Posts

It took me several months to finish the project, as it wasn't one of my priorities and I had to attend to some commissions in the meantime, but at least it came out really good to me.

For the first time I decided to twist a wrought iron bar to see the effects after etching. Some viking age blades were done without the need of mixing two different kinds of steel when twisting the bars and I wanted to take a look on this visual. I must say that I loved the results and I'm really planning to make it on larger blades soon, maybe even a sword.

So, this blade was forged on three parts: the spine and the core bars are wrought iron from the Victorian Age England, the edge is layered 5160 and 15N20 steels. The inlays on the spine are 18k gold.

The handle, as simple as it could, is a piece of maple burl treated with linseed oil. The tang was glued to the handle using a home made cutler's resin recipe.

The sheath is veg-tanned leather, with iron rivets and brass washers, rings and loops for suspension. The motifs are based on finds from the 10th century York and Dublin.

Overall: 21,7cm 
B. length: 11,4cm 
B. width: 2,2cm at the widest part 
Thickness: 0,5cm

IMG_20170519_145631913.jpg

IMG_20170519_145651673.jpg

IMG_20170519_145657378.jpg

IMG_20170519_145729222.jpg

IMG_20170519_145734424.jpg

IMG_20170519_145744989.jpg

IMG_20170519_145750527.jpg

IMG_20170519_145800132.jpg

IMG_20170519_145804146.jpg

IMG_20170519_145822784.jpg

IMG_20170519_145828249.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well said Peter. I think this is lovely. Well done. Good work. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That wrought iron twist is so gnarly! I get tired of seeing burl wood everywhere but in this case it's very fitting!

as a whole, for a multi-bar blade, it's very simple, and I think that is something wonderful. Thinking about the creation of this knife it seems to me like it wanted to be created, I don't know how much work you put into the knife but it looks like the right amount to me!

and the blade only being held in the handle by cutlers resin refines my thoughts about how the blade would be used, this is a very complete package.

The burl and the twisted wrought iron make me want to use it, but the cutlers resin makes me want to respect it more than use it. I'm sure some of my knives could cut down even the greatest foe, but do I need to? 

Excellent work.

what are your thoughts about the cutlers resin? I have read it works, but I've never tried it.

ill say again, this one speaks to me! 

 

EDIT: I'm not trying to say the cutlers resin isn't good enough, but my knifemaking leans towards mechanical fit, so my opinion isn't based on knowledge of cutlers resin, but rather the knowledge of beating blades on branches and through brush and bush.

Edited by steven smith
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like it, woo ho!!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you everyone! Peter, it is really an achievement for me to get a compliment from you, you are indeed an inspiration to me and other fellow bladesmiths here in Brazil hehe

Steven, I understand your doubts. Actually you can refine the recipe for each specific use. Once, for a big broad sax I made for a friend for example, I put a bit of linseed oil on the recipe so it could endure more impact to the tang without breaking.

But to be completely honest, it is not even close to what a good epoxi can hold. And there is also the problem with the weather. Here in Brazil we have some regions where the average temperature on the summer is above 37ºC. If you let the blade under the sunlight for about five minutes it would simply melt down and make a huge mess inside the sheath. And if you adjust the recipe for this somehow, if you move for another place in the same country, the resin would crack in the winter just because of the contraction.

It really does the job of holding the blade and as the blade itself is short, you can use it normally, but has some annoying limitations sometimes. My choice for use it on my blades are rather to be more "purist" and artistic than based on the performance. Hope it helps you =)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wonderful work, the shape is ideal, the materials are beautiful.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...