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New hammer acquisition, 300 lb. Beaudry! Full rebuild with detailed pics.

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Hey man!  Yeah I just posted it in reply over on my dagger thread, but it needs to live here, too!  Enjoy...  

Hopefully yes, my pal is coming by next weekend to help drill and epoxy the final bolt holes, and I'll wire the motor up, and hopefully we'll get some pattern welding done on it the next day!  Video i

Well, I had enough of trying to track down hammers, afford them, dicker over price, lose deals from distance and competition... so I contacted my friend Larry Langdon and sure enough, he had a good pr

I do feel quite good about it!

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I made the top linkage arm today, tying the brake to the idler arm. It's just a new bought 5/8" turnbuckle, with an extension welded to one side to achieve correct adjustable range of length. The eyes at the ends have lathe-turned steel bushings with a 5/8" bore welded into them to smoothly fit the pin/bolts.


It can be seen in this picture, the degree to which I had to bend the top eye in to match the angle of the bent idler connection. The turnbuckle threads have locking nuts on both sides to keep the assembly stiff.


Idler position with treadle up, brake on, belt loose.
Also note the spring box, fixed up and re-installed. It fits more snugly now, a good thing to my mind.


With the treadle depressed- run mode, brake off. Pretty smooth, and the weight of the idler does indeed pull the treadle back up without need for a counterweight. The weight stays for now though, as it speeds up the treadle return.


I have some 80mm 4140HT round on order, at about 30 rockwell. I'm going to turn that into rollers on the Hendey.

Edited by Salem Straub
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The tapered gib needed some real work... so I took it down. Here's the back, which I brushed clean.


The brass wear strips were coming loose, with one almost falling off... I figure they'd been allowed to come loose, and the ram sheared them off. I went to drilling out all the broken brass screws and re-tapping the holes.


I had some round brass on hand to make the 3/8" screw for the wear strips...


Slotting the head on a brass screw.


A finished brass screw. Too much time though.


After making one brass screw, I knew it took a lot of time... so the only thing I could find within 40 miles at a store was silicon bronze 3/8" hex cap bolts, which I then modified on the lathe into flathead screws.


The tapered gib mounted back on the hammer, with all fasteners in tight and seven of them replacements.


Tracks worn into the inside of the ram, by unlubricated rollers that were not fully spinning.


Tracks ground out from one side of the ram, and surface smoothed and lightly re-shaped.


Another view of smoothed inside ram surface, now the new rollers should glide much more easily.


Ram side #2, also badly worn. The wear pattern is slanting and to the side and high up, possibly from the spring being run sloppy. This can't have been good- I imagine that's what would lead to arm breakage ultimately.


Ram side #2 ground all better.


Detail of smoothed and shaped ram inner #2.


You know you've just been having too much fun when your hands look like this. Angle grinder swarf...


Clearing the plugged-up oil holes in the ram.


That's all I can do until the stock for the rollers comes in...

Edited by Salem Straub
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OK, more progress on the hammer... here's what's new.
Having gotten the bar of 80mm round 4140 HT in, I began the roller turning project.
I researched the best strategy for heavy material removal with slow speeds and HSS tooling for this material, and found the recipe for this style of grind. It's got a heavy rake and is quite acute, called (I gather) in some circles a "knife grind." 


Trying it out, it's fantastic. It really peels material off with less hp necessary, and puts most of the heat into the chip, not the tool. I could hog 5/16" depth of cut per side, with up to .010"/rev at 70ish sfm before my stupid tool holder would wimp out...


With the good cutters, this job generated copious piles of thick blue and gold chips!

The new rollers, next to the old ones.
The new ones are a bit bigger, .025" larger in diameter and the integral stub shafts as large as the journals on the spring arms will accept (1.40".) This to account for wear on the old ones, and to provide a slightly smoother ride and a little more possible arm pre-load.


I was unable to get a consistent, nice finish on the 4140 after roughing it in, so I got as close as I could and finished by grinding and scotchbrite belts.


Tomorrow I'm putting the rollers back into the spring arms, and re-assembling it all. Exciting! Well, for me anyway.

Here's the hammer put back together...



On a side note, the Hendey kicked butt on this job, although oddly enough it developed a case of "reverse Hendeyitis" in that the spindle developed about .030" of end play near the end of the job. I took up the slack at the rear bearing with the threaded collars, which seemed to bring it right back into line.

Edited by Salem Straub
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  • 1 month later...

I've been working on other things to make money the last few weeks, but I did buy some dies from a fellow forumite here (thanks man!) and they came in today.
These are likely Bradley dies, but will fit with a shim underneath. They are round-swaging dies so I'm having to grind them flat.
The faces are 4"x11" and die height will be 2" upper and 2.25" lower.
A file will cut them but they are semi-hard and spark like at least medium-high carbon steel.
SUCH nice big flat faces! Can't wait to smash billets!


Edited by Salem Straub
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Salem, I have really enjoyed seeing your knives, their beauty and elegance, fit and finish is always an inspiration. I have been watching this rebuild, even though I couldn't do 10% of the work even with the right tools, not enough skill. You are truly a master craftsman in every sense of the word. Thank for sharing. 

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Jim, I really appreciate that, although I think you're way too kind...  thanks for digging the thread!

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I ground the top die nice and flat, and softened the edges just a bit with an angle grinder, then did the same to the bottom die...


Then took measurements of the ram dovetail, and found some stock the right thickness for a key.  Here it is blocked up on the grinder mag chuck, machining 1/8" taper per 11" off, 13" total key length.mbLh8KK.jpg

Top die, 1/8" shim underneath and die key rough-fitted.
I drove it in about halfway with a deadblow, it will be finish fitted with blue dykem and selective grinding. The ram looks good with that die in it, though!

Edited by Salem Straub
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You can see in that die grinding pic that the sparks are pretty explody... at least 40 points carbon I'd say and possibly more.
I think they'll work great!

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  • 2 weeks later...

No turning back now... sawed a hole through the shop floor, 3.5' x 6'. Now there's some digging to do..


Your average, garden variety, four foot deep power hammer foundation hole.


Edited by Salem Straub
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I tied a fair amount of rebar in my early 20's... whaddya know, it came in handy again! Cage built for hammer foundation. Hoping to pour on Friday.

Edited by Salem Straub
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Aww, I was going to make some wise crack about you "Renting" some space in that hole to burly guys in suit jackets with white on white ties that wanted to store their rolled up carpet for a few years.  Then you went and filled it all up with rebar so there won't be any cracks...

... wise or otherwise ;) 

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"Storing rolled up carpets for a few years"... that's a good one.  Better than all of the other body jokes I heard over this hole.  Anyway!  Progress:

Foundation poured for the Beaudry... 3-1/4 yards of six sack mix with super plasticizer. Signed in the corner by my boy, with his feet and hands and I added his name and the date!


Edited by Salem Straub
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No anchor bolts... it's a two piece hammer, and I don't have a forklift on hand to make a plywood pattern... also it will be tight getting the hammer in place anyway, don't want to have to worry about putting it over bolts.  I plan to drill and epoxy bolts down through the anvil holes, then set the hammer over and drill and epoxy the frame holes.

Speaking of which, check it out!  Lots more progress over the last few months.

My new Beaudry anvil stand... overkill?


You need big hardware to bolt down a #9 Beaudry... single point threading 1-1/4" rods on the lathe.


Anvil set...18" long bolts, one end threaded 1-1/4" x 12 tpi, remaining 14" roughed up and set into concrete with Simpson AT-XP anchoring adhesive. Sucker ain't goin' nowhere! Now the hammer can be set over it next.


Major day... the hammer is inside on the foundation. Now its true presence and bulk can be truly appreciated...
Big, big thanks to my neighbor Michael Danielson... a man with a 6000 lb. forklift that BARELY fit in the building, and a hell of a steady hand with it.


26 feet of 6x6" H beam, dragged home to fabricate a motor tower for the Beaudry hammer.


Finally torch cut the old dovetails off. Major accomplishment, though a rough cut.  8" deep kerfs!  Theoretically the trimmed sow now weighs 860 lbs.


60 psi oxygen through a 3/8" hose to a #7 cutting tip will freeze your reg up!


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Big doin's... cutting 6" H beam for hammer motor tower.


One evening of furious fabrication and loud music later, the drive tower is roughed in. It will be additionally guyed to the building frame on each side to eliminate side twist. Total height of machine is now 10'-8".


Top axle is more or less plumb to hammer axle. The 45 joint in the tower will get an added gusset brace welded inside the corner for good measure.


The hammer frame had bolt holes in it already, so I mounted to those with heavy channel and build up from there. The H upright bolts to the flat channel in back.


Cut at 22.5, flipped and welded back together for a 45 miter.


Flat belt path looks good...


Put all 860 lbs of the sow block onto my friend's big CNC mill table. Ripping it down flat with a 2.5" carbide insert face mill, .100" at a time. That's a chip guard around the workpiece.


Side 2 face milled nearly flat. Lots of blue chips everywhere. Dovetails are next!


The guy wires were not enough alone to eliminate twist under simulated belt load, so I fabbed a brace, lagged it to the rafters, and welded it down to the tower frame, with an intermediate bolt plate should disassembly ever be necessary.


Roof brace plus guy wires and main standard = super solid!


Managed to hoist and install the 250 lb. motor without mishap, although it took some finagling. At least the ceiling now has a permanent pick point above the motor.


My old 1/2 ton chain hoist, hooked into a heavy pad eye welded to a chunk of channel, which is lag bolted up to three of the rafters. Had no problem with the motor. Also I can route a chain or cable from the hoist, underneath the jackshaft, back to the motor feet, and use the hoist to adjust the motor spacing on the base slots.


Triple sheave belt path looks good. Now to size and buy belts!


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Top side of sow block nearly finish machined. The bottom dovetail is male and so necessitates more material removal, but is within the Y envelope entirely and thus only needs positioning once for all the cuts.
4 full days and counting...


This is the angle milling operation, using a tall 1" endmill, to finish the dovetial shape after having milled a rough straight-sided pocket first.


Beaudry sow block, side #2 nearing completion.


Beaudry sow block all milled out and ready to install!


Engine hoists being what they are, I had to drop the sow onto a forklift fork bridge and slide it into place. It worked super slick, not even sketchy.


Even though the handling holes are now below the center of gravity, they still work well to pick from with a choke chain setup.


The fit on the small side of the key taper.


The big side of the key taper.


Flippin' perfect perfect alignment!


Beast mode.


Looks pretty cool with that oversize sow, methinks! It adds about 300 lbs extra to the ram:anvil ratio, which should make it hit harder for its size.


Making a die key. Measured the dovetail/die gap at both ends with calipers, milled witness steps into the bar for the key at the two levels of taper, die length apart. Now using two vises on the mag chuck to hold the key at the slight angle necessary to grind to the step bottoms simultaneously.


Key fit decently off the surface grinder, then I installed and removed it several times, with hand grinding at each step, where friction was visible on the key. Now it fits a little past full depth with some taper left to spare. That's both die keys finish fit. The bottom die will have a thick shim under it- these dies are not stock dovetail height for a #9 Beaudry and I want to keep my options open down the road.


Edited by Salem Straub
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  • Salem Straub changed the title to New hammer acquisition, 300 lb. Beaudry! Full rebuild with detailed pics.

I always say "I'm like Ron Covell" (Ron=LEGEND) when I'm doing sheet metal work (you know, braggadociouse, boasting, salty shop talk) , and reference "Salem motherf#(/n' Straub" when talking about, or working on knives... Guess now I can add welding, and machining, pouring concrete, etc, etc, etc :lol:

Really enjoying seeing this come together! Can't wait to see what you make with it!



Edited by Zeb Camper
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