My KITH 2017 (I hope)

[Mike Andriacco]

Ok, let's see how this goes since I'm posting from my phone. This project has been dogging me for weeks now. Started one in 1084 and it cracked in the quench. Decided to try one in 1075 and go for a hamon. As far as I can tell, no hamon (or super minimal). I only took it to 220 on the KMG so far, followed by a coarse scotchbrite, 800 grit cork, then fine scotchbrite. Threw it into the ferric, and rubbed it with some mother's mag polish. I'm going to go back to 220 and work through the hand grits and see if that presents anything. But so far, no luck. So if anyone wants to speculate why and offer an opinion, please do. I think I didn't put the clay far enough down the blade. Either way, she'll be thin and she'll cut like crazy when I'm done in the end! I went ahead and paid the blood price so hopefully that'll satisfy the blade and her new owner never need know her bite.

 

[Mike Andriacco]

Actually, on thinking about it, I might try taking it through all the compounds I have for my buffer and see how that goes. Then try the lemon juice and flitz trick.

[Brian Dougherty]

That is taking shape nicely.  As far as the hamon, I think the 1075 is probably your issue.  I've not used 1075, but it isn't one of the alloys that people talk about with hamons very often.

Edit: More informed opinions below

Edited June 12, 2017 by Brian Dougherty

[JJ Simon]

Aldo's 1075 makes great hamon.
As always there are numerous reasons why you didn't get a hamon.
It should be visible at 220.
You could have through hardening.

Your clay could have been too thick? Or too thin.
Speed of oil may not have allowed it or the geometry didn't allow it.
There are so many possibilities you have to go one by one and try to eliminate them.
 

[Alan Longmire]

And if your 1075 is from Admiral, it has too much Mn for good hamon.  Aldo's is less than .3% Mn, which is about as high as you want it for hamon.

[Mike Andriacco]

Yeah, it's Aldo's. I think I'll have to make a few more of these in the future and try different thicknesses and placements of the clay. I love me some science! I'm very fond of this shape though, so I want to play more with it as time goes on. Thanks for the inputs!

[Mike Andriacco]

Oh, and it was the Parks quenchant I got from you, JJ (I think AAA). I'm inclined to think through hardened. It came back out without much clay on it.

[Timothy Artymko]

That is the likely solution. What kind of clay did you use??

[Mike Andriacco]

I used the Rutlands black, watered down a bit. Matt Venier taught me how to do it and he has gotten some awesome hamons. I just don't think I went thick enough with it. I seriously do love experimenting, though, so expect to see many more of these in the future, lol.

[Timothy Artymko]

Ok, I hear that rutlands works, but I've never tried it,d I have gone with an age old method of clay, ash, and sand. I find if I put on a superficial coat to 'muddy' the blade and then let that dry, it makes the clay stick like glue through the heat treat.