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Stock removal with hand tools


Joël Mercier

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12 minutes ago, Zeb Camper said:

1/16" is ideal yes. just keep in mind you'll have file it thinner after temper in order to get a fine cutting edge. So, the harder you keep the steel, the harder it will be to file and sand. 

My #1 survived the quench at 1/32" but it warped a bit. This one has a much thicker spine. That's why I wonder if a 1/32" edge with a thick spine would work. I am also going to use a different HT method. I'll be using my propane forge + a 2.5" pipe to watch decalescence instead of the acetylene torch I used for my 1st. I believe I will have a more even heat and an optimum temperature.(thanks Alan Longmire!)

Edited by Joël Mercier
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I think you would probably be fine, if you use an ashi layer on the blade to prevent decarb on the edge. How much angle are you putting on the blade? Tall, or more of a scandi? If it's a scandi it will most likely work great (Although a tall flat would look/perform better) a tall grind may be more prone to cracking at 1/32". I personally wouldn't try anything under 1/16". a differential HT should still allow you to file and sand to your final demintions. people do it with katanas all the time. 

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Your distal taper is what's doing this to you. You might have to free hand from here. You will start at the ricasso at more of an angle, as you go out further towards the tip the angle will become flatter. If the grind is to go all the way to the spine, no marking is needed, but if its going only part of the way up to the spine you should probably measure and sharpie, or scribe your line. While you are doing this, keep in mind where both of your maked lines are and simply try not to touch them. The end result should be a perfect grind (file:lol:) with a perfect distal taper :) I don't believe you'r file jig can help you anymore :(

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Just to recap, measure from edge up to your desired grind height in multiple locations and mark with dots. Connect the dots. Use this line along with the line you made on the edge of the knife as a guide. Just don't touch either line while filing and you should turn out perfect. A diagonal file motion may work best with a double cut bastard file, but if you have a mill file you can do a draw filing technique (similar to using a draw knife). filing this way will be faster and cover more area. 

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4 minutes ago, Zeb Camper said:

Just to recap, measure from edge up to your desired grind height in multiple locations and mark with dots. Connect the dots. Use this line along with the line you made on the edge of the knife as a guide. Just don't touch either line while filing and you should turn out perfect. A diagonal file motion may work best with a double cut bastard file, but if you have a mill file you can do a draw filing technique (similar to using a draw knife). filing this way will be faster and cover more area. 

That's exactly what I did. I scribed a center line and 2 parallel lines 1/32" on each side. I am using a double cut bastard file with the jig. I will smooth out by drawfiling once I'm done :) here's a more pronounced pic of the belly "issue"

P_20170903_142959.jpg

Edited by Joël Mercier
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All right, quit making other newbies look bad :angry:.... Just kidding!:lol: You still gonna taper the tang? Man, I recommend you forge the next one to shape a little bit. This makes me want to go work on something. I'm at the nefew's B-day party though, so oh well :(

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32 minutes ago, Zeb Camper said:

All right, quit making other newbies look bad :angry:.... Just kidding!:lol: You still gonna taper the tang? Man, I recommend you forge the next one to shape a little bit. This makes me want to go work on something. I'm at the nefew's B-day party though, so oh well :(

Thanks man, really appreciated.

Yes, tapering the tang is still on the list but I fear it's going to be harder.

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