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Stock removal with hand tools


Joël Mercier

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Your Impressing me more and more with every post Joel! oxpho blue from brownells has the deepest penetration I would say. Wiping it on leaves streakes though, but I have found that if you dip something in it it leaves a more even finish. But, you will dilute the potency of the blue in the bottle this way. 

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Thanks Zeb but I do not wish to buy another bottle of blue. I will try different techniques with the 96 before discarding it I think. I did read a lot of positive reviews about oxpho blue but having it shipped to Canada is expensive :(

 

 

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Kleenbore Black Magic, that's my stuff!  It penetrates a bit as well, enough that when I blue the engraving on a hawk head I have to really scrub with 400 grit (the highest I polish those) to get the overflow off.  And it is almost black, even as ghost marks while sanding it out.  So maybe you don't want that after all.

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Well, after a fourth unconvincing attempt to blue the bevels, I gave up and decided to simply polish them.

I don't know if the blue was the culprit or it was simply my lack of skill or knowledge. All I can say is that when I first opened the bottle, it was more of a thick gelly than a cream. I had to stir it for a while. The product also instantly thickens and become sticky as soon as it touches the blade. Very difficult to do a streak free and even finish in those conditions. 

 

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You know, that blue was just gonna wear off in the sheath (if you were gonna make one) and light use. I'm a big fan of the distressed look, and patinas. My theory is if they are gonna be used they won't stay pretty long. And a patina will go away with use and come back when the blade is not properly cleaned and stored. A patina will hold oil too. I just sort of make em' look like they've already been used a while. I know you want this perfect, but I actually like a bit of character in a blade. It's like hamons, you can sway them to look a certain way, but you can't control it. And that's what makes it special.

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Took it to the Japanese whetstone this morning. I can finally call it a knife, yay! 20° per bevel up to #6000. I can tell by the feel on the stone that this thing is hhhhard, yet still quite easy to sharpen. It now does clean cuts on paper. Even tried it on tomatoes and does quick work on them as well.:ph34r:

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I think that was a good choice, cleaning up the finish like that.  And you got a nice small secondary bevel going on there, so looks like you have some good geometry going on.  I am excited to see you finish Joel; you certainly put the effort in.

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“In the midst of winter, I found there was, within me, an invincible summer."  -Albert Camus

http://www.krakenforge.net/

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Yeah, it's good to see some obvious progress at last. I was getting less and less excited. 

@Zeb Camper You know how I work :D. Of course I'm going to carve that beautiful wood. I will start by continuing the peaked spine into the scales, roughly 3/16", to make a seamless look, then round it up. I rough sanded the contour already. Will use the file jig(again) for the spine job.

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On 9/3/2017 at 1:59 PM, Joël Mercier said:

Thanks man, really appreciated.

Yes, tapering the tang is still on the list but I fear it's going to be harder.

Oh, c'mon, rise to the challenge. Double taper it from ricasso to butt and from spine to belly. :P

It can't be that hard. I had never seen it done when I did it, heck, I didn't even notice I was doing it . :o

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26 minutes ago, Vern Wimmer said:

Oh, c'mon, rise to the challenge. Double taper it from ricasso to butt and from spine to belly. :P

It can't be that hard. I had never seen it done when I did it, heck, I didn't even notice I was doing it . :o

Hahaha! Proximal and distal are enough for a 1st knife :P

Edited by Joël Mercier
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Looks great! If you don't mind a small amount of critiquing... The handle seems to be choking up on the blade. I wonder if you could cut a slight angle at the top of the handle scales to kind of let the ricasso breathe a little? It wouldn't need much. 

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