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Any suggestions?


JamesK
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I first want to apologize for asking three questions so far on this blade, but I haven’t been able to find any good hidden tang making tips so I’ve been winging it and asking questions along he way. This is the best I was able to get, and it’s not that good, but any suggestions before I completely grind the blade and treat it?

i know tang is awful but hopefully I can hide it enough and it won’t be an issue fitting it into the handle5B6D6EBE-8708-411D-A7FC-85605C603B4E.jpeg

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James,

I hope you don't mind a little constructive criticism.  There are a couple  of  things that I  would  suggest.  One:  The tang should taper both ways from front to back.  [Leave it a little wider & thicker in front.]  This will aid in fitting a slotted guard to the tang.  (I suggest getting a file guard to aid in establishing a good  shoulder on the back of the ricasso.)  Two:  The choil or bottom of  the ricasso needs to be parallel with the top of the blade.  Most like the "Golden Mean" in relation to the length of  the ricasso which means usually about 1/2"-5/8" front to back depending on the size of the blade.

 

Edited by Gary Mulkey

Gary

 

ABS,CKCA,ABKA,KGA

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Maybe this will help

 

 

"The worst day smithing is better than the best day working for someone else."

 

I said that.

 

If a thing is worth doing, it is worth doing badly.

- - -G. K. Chesterton

 

So, just for the record: the fact that it does work still should not be taken as definitive proof that you are not crazy.

 

Grant Sarver

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5 minutes ago, Gary Mulkey said:

James,

I hope you don't mind a little constructive criticism.  There are a couple  of  things that I  would  suggest.  One:  The tang should taper both ways from front to back.  [Leave it a little wider & thicker in front.]  This will aid in fitting a slotted guard to the tang.  (I suggest getting a file guard to aid in establishing a good  shoulder on the back of the ricasso.)  Two:  The choil or bottom of  the ricasso needs to be parallel with the top of the blade.  Most like the "Golden Mean" in relation to the length of  the ricasso which means usually about 1/2"-5/8" front to back depending on the size of the blade.

 

After doing some short research I’ve decided to probably scrap this build. It’s atrocious I know, but this was my first attempt at making something actually look good and not just something that looks like a blade with a sharp edge. I’m only a few months into bladesmithing and I’m in a heavy trial and error period. I wrote down what the blade should look like, as well as possible steps I could take to make a new one, with the current blade as comparison. Looking at the picture below, would you say that the steps I wrote as well as the picture make sense?03B5177F-FE38-4498-9684-DB114762B81F.jpeg

obviously the tang is too thick in the picture, just had to make it all fit on a page...anyways this is my goal, that is what came out. Any suggestions? I think my bevels suck, and in order to get that prominent indent in all the heels (choil), should I hammer with that against edge of anvil? Thanks

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