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Just finished my fullering device, a tool I only recently learned about and only recently learned how necessary they are. So I went ahead and bought a 36 inch steel rod 1/2” and it pretty much turned out just as I planned. The spring section is crudely forged and ugly but it’s very springy, and although some stuff is unaligned the two rods are aligned and fit well, so any suggestions or comments on it? Thanks. Spent about 25-30 mins on it

PS: I know my anvil is ugly and tiny, it’s onlt $85 and all I can afford right now, the next best is way over my budget for toolsB7CD037D-9507-433E-BADE-B381BF8C4644.jpegA5458882-5C3D-47EE-864F-65139C313924.jpeg

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Well done and creative. Just make sure that the "pin" section fits loosely in the Hardy hole and the bottom fuller rest on the anvil face, otherwise the Hardy hole itself will be bearing the brunt of the blows and that's not good.

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Nice work, I have two suggestion to help improve it.  Bend your long ends back so you only have a few inches of fuller while giving a good entry and exit to the fuller so you don't fuller the whole length that you have shown.  And second if you take the first suggestion where you place the two effective sides of the fuller bend them a few degrees so a long bland won't hit the back of your tool  or force you to engage at at an odd angle.  Oh ya, I am so stealing this idea to share with new smiths as an easy fuller great idea!

 

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23 minutes ago, Desmond Redmon said:

Nice work, I have two suggestion to help improve it.  Bend your long ends back so you only have a few inches of fuller while giving a good entry and exit to the fuller so you don't fuller the whole length that you have shown.  And second if you take the first suggestion where you place the two effective sides of the fuller bend them a few degrees so a long bland won't hit the back of your tool  or force you to engage at at an odd angle.  Oh ya, I am so stealing this idea to share with new smiths as an easy fuller great idea!

 

I think he really made it for swaging the shoulders at the tang/blade junction. But it is a heck of a simple no-weld design and I am blatantly stealing it.

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26 minutes ago, Vern Wimmer said:

I think he really made it for swaging the shoulders at the tang/blade junction. But it is a heck of a simple no-weld design and I am blatantly stealing it.

I saw that but you can do the same with it angled to allow him to also fuller a blood groove in the blade with a lighter hammer.  I wasn't trying to knock what he did I was more just thinking about what I'm going to do when I steal his design LOL. (EDIT:) Incidentally I think it's a pair of forge welds to the bent stock he's using to fit the fuller rather than weldless. Some folks are good enough with TIG to do it so it looks forge welded, but the forge polish looks like it was forge welded...

 

Edited by Desmond Redmon
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I was thinking that if you were using, say, 3/8 rod you could bend the bottom fuller down and up, upset it a bit, and fit it to the hole with slack and bend over the "running end" for the top. A one piece model. 

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