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Jlinner

Burner Placement

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Up to you, really.  The rigidizer will help keep it in place while adding the cement coat, but otherwise doesn't do much.

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Just now, Alan Longmire said:

Up to you, really.  The rigidizer will help keep it in place while adding the cement coat, but otherwise doesn't do much.

Ok cool, thanks for all you advise Alan.

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You will want to back the burners up some.  Having the burner mouths inside of the forge chamber is a fast way to ruin them.  Back them out so that they sit inside of their mounting tubes and then mold the refractory so that it flares.

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You're going to want a largish hole in that door to allow the back pressure from the burners to dissipate.  Especially with three of those monsters! Two would suffice.  Venturi burners don't like back pressure.

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4 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

You're going to want a largish hole in that door to allow the back pressure from the burners to dissipate.  Especially with three of those monsters! Two would suffice.  Venturi burners don't like back pressure.

Hi Alan,

You read my mind because that was my exact next question. I will be cutting 2 large square holes in the doors with rails for bricks to slide in a out of as needed.

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Were it me, I'd make three cuts for the openings, top and two sides, then fold the "flaps" outward to make shelves

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21 minutes ago, Vern Wimmer said:

Were it me, I'd make three cuts for the openings, top and two sides, then fold the "flaps" outward to make shelves

Hi Vern,

Do you have a pic or a drawing of this method?

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It would just be cutting 3/4 of the rectangular opening, leaving the bottom un-cut and then bending the cut portion outward. If you really need a visual I could probably make a demo on a pop can by tomorrow morning.( got to plug in my device to charge ASAP)

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13 hours ago, Vern Wimmer said:

It would just be cutting 3/4 of the rectangular opening, leaving the bottom un-cut and then bending the cut portion outward. If you really need a visual I could probably make a demo on a pop can by tomorrow morning.( got to plug in my device to charge ASAP)

I think I'm picking up what you are throwing down. I'm going to make the opening with rails that I can put firebricks in from of the opening.

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Wool installed and rigidizer sprayed. Now wait 24 hours.

20171206_185049.jpg

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Is that 2 layers of 1" "wool" in there ?

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16 minutes ago, Vern Wimmer said:

Is that 2 layers of 1" "wool" in there ?

That is a single 1 inch layer.

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I take it that you will be adding a second layer?

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3 minutes ago, Vern Wimmer said:

I take it that you will be adding a second layer?

I can but didn't plan on it. Not sure I can because it's already been rigidized right?

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7 minutes ago, Jlinner said:

I can but didn't plan on it. Not sure I can because it's already been rigidized right?

"Rigidizing" that layer does not preclude adding another layer, which, IMO, you need to do. I'd run the next layer at a right angle to the first layer.

Ps: I'd stagger the joints on the second layer

Edited by Vern Wimmer
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1 hour ago, Vern Wimmer said:

"Rigidizing" that layer does not preclude adding another layer, which, IMO, you need to do. I'd run the next layer at a right angle to the first layer.

Ps: I'd stagger the joints on the second layer

Hi Vern,

Just so I know, why do I need another layer?

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The general idea of the insulation, to put it simply, is to keep all of the heat generated by the burners in a somewhat confined place for efficiency and usability. Think of your kitchen oven. How well would it work if you were, say, baking something at 425 and your oven wasn't well enough insulated and the door was open ? It might be just a bit of a problem if you couldn't get within 6 feet of your oven . There is also the little detail of the insulating material, when used in sufficient quantity, allowing us to make forge bodies, and their attendant gas plumbing, relatively safe from the effects of temperatures we expect to rise to welding, and higher temperatures. Bringing the body of the forge and/or the gas plumbing to welding temperature is, as a medical friend says, "contraindicated".

Edited by Vern Wimmer
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Y'all don't happen to live in upstate New York ?

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10 hours ago, Vern Wimmer said:

The general idea of the insulation, to put it simply, is to keep all of the heat generated by the burners in a somewhat confined place for efficiency and usability. Think of your kitchen oven. How well would it work if you were, say, baking something at 425 and your oven wasn't well enough insulated and the door was open ? It might be just a bit of a problem if you couldn't get within 6 feet of your oven . There is also the little detail of the insulating material, when used in sufficient quantity, allowing us to make forge bodies, and their attendant gas plumbing, relatively safe from the effects of temperatures we expect to rise to welding, and higher temperatures. Bringing the body of the forge and/or the gas plumbing to welding temperature is, as a medical friend says, "contraindicated".

Awesome thank you Vern, I ordered another roll of wool last night.

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Remember to insulate your doors as well. Left unprotected they will absorb a lot of heat and transfer it to the forge shell/body.

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Double tapped all on its own.

Edited by Vern Wimmer

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5 hours ago, Jlinner said:

Awesome thank you Vern, I ordered another roll of wool last night.

I have an entire pallet of wool if you need some to finish up send me a PM and we can work something out. Your only 40 miles away from where I'm located

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42 minutes ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

I have an entire pallet of wool if you need some to finish up send me a PM and we can work something out. Your only 40 miles away from where I'm located

Shoot man, I just ordered a roll last night. Thank you very much though.

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