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Renaissance Sidesword WIP


Florian F Fortner
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Doug, yes sideswords are cut and thrust swords. They come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, yet it must be suitable for cuts and thrusts equally and will often be used with sidearms like bucklers or targas. Maybe you had the narrower more thrust oriented rapier in mind?

If you are interested in the use of this kind of weapon, just google Achille Marozzo and you will get the idea...

 

 

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I might have been confusing it with the smallsword.  Of course both sidesword and smallsword are probably more modern terms for the two weapons.

Doug

HELP...I'm a twenty year old trapped in the body of an old man!!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

The trouble to which you go for a sparring blunt is mind-boggling every time you post a new project. Excellent work.

You may be wrong on the "not selling things" part. Very, VERY few people make high quality rapiers and sideswords. For the work you produce, 3000+ Euros is easily in it. Still too cheap for how much work there is in them but well, that's how the market is.

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Lukas, I rather put the work into something I use a few times a week instead into something that will just hang on the wall and not get used at all.

Pommel is finished now:

P1070880.JPG

 

And here finally the assembled sword. I'm off tomorrow for a fencing event, there I'll have the possibility to test it thoroughly...

P1070881.JPGP1070882.JPGP1070883.JPG

 

Edited by Florian F Fortner
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Sweet. Get someone to take some photos of it in action.

"The way we win matters" (Ender Wiggins) Orson Scott Card

 

Nos, qui libertate donati sumus, nes cimus quid constet.

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OK, I have been trying to figure this out since your post on Jan 18th.  How do you get the wire to follow the contour of the grip?  Is it just a matter of gluing it, or is there another trick?  

I was able to cast my crossguard and pommel for my sparring longsword (blade by Castille Armory in Oregon; it is a bit stiff and definitely needs a blunt on the tip for safe thrusting - I use a .45 ACP case).  I would cringe way too much if I had put that much effort into a sparring set-up.  Every parry would make me worry.  It would probably make me focus on proper parries with the strong of the blade though!  

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Beautiful work!

-----------------------------------------------

"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly; who errs and comes short again and again; because there is not effort without error and shortcomings; but who does actually strive to do the deed; who knows the great enthusiasm, the great devotion, who spends himself in a worthy cause, who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement and who at the worst, if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly." -- Theodore Roosevelt

http://stephensforge.com

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That's amazing hilt work, I love it!

 

Please come and waste some otherwise perfectly good time, looking at my knives!

www.prometheanknives.com

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Uh......what they said. Dang fantastic work.

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

The only bad experience is the one from which you learn nothing.  

 

Josh

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Thanks guys for the praise! It's a pleasure to post my work in this place!!

Jerrod, the grip is quite easy. You shape the wood core to the finished form with all the flutes, then you wrap the wire as tight as you would on a flat grip and secure the ends. Lastly, you hammer the wire into the flutes (with a smooth rounded chisel or similar, to prevent cutting or kinking the wire). The wire will stretch and stay in the flutes because it's annealed. 

As for the sparring abuse: If the hilt is made of 1045 or better, the damage will be on the surface only, nothing deep. Some fencing masters (Pietro Monte for example) advised to have the hilt hardened except for the part where the tang goes through the crossguard. Just make sure your blade and hilt are bit harder than your opponents ;) (which is easy considering the soft stuff most people buy from the standard retailers)

 

Here are some pics of this sword after three days of hard sparring at last weekends event. The cutting edge is less than 1mm and was not rounded - still no deep burrs. The hilt got some chips, but that just adds to the authenticity :D

P1070884.JPG

P1070885.JPG

 

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Definitely not a trailer queen, a now proven warrior .......Excellent !!!

If ya can't be good don't git caught  !!                                        People who say stuff can't be done need to

                                                                                                        git the hell outta the way of people who do stuff   !!!

Show me a man who is called an expert by his peers         

And I will show you a good man to listen to ......

Show me a man who calls himself an expert

and I will show you an egotistical asshole...............!!

 

                             

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