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Renaissance Sidesword WIP

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Doug, yes sideswords are cut and thrust swords. They come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, yet it must be suitable for cuts and thrusts equally and will often be used with sidearms like bucklers or targas. Maybe you had the narrower more thrust oriented rapier in mind?

If you are interested in the use of this kind of weapon, just google Achille Marozzo and you will get the idea...



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  • 3 weeks later...

The trouble to which you go for a sparring blunt is mind-boggling every time you post a new project. Excellent work.

You may be wrong on the "not selling things" part. Very, VERY few people make high quality rapiers and sideswords. For the work you produce, 3000+ Euros is easily in it. Still too cheap for how much work there is in them but well, that's how the market is.

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Lukas, I rather put the work into something I use a few times a week instead into something that will just hang on the wall and not get used at all.

Pommel is finished now:



And here finally the assembled sword. I'm off tomorrow for a fencing event, there I'll have the possibility to test it thoroughly...



Edited by Florian F Fortner
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OK, I have been trying to figure this out since your post on Jan 18th.  How do you get the wire to follow the contour of the grip?  Is it just a matter of gluing it, or is there another trick?  

I was able to cast my crossguard and pommel for my sparring longsword (blade by Castille Armory in Oregon; it is a bit stiff and definitely needs a blunt on the tip for safe thrusting - I use a .45 ACP case).  I would cringe way too much if I had put that much effort into a sparring set-up.  Every parry would make me worry.  It would probably make me focus on proper parries with the strong of the blade though!  

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That's amazing hilt work, I love it!


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Thanks guys for the praise! It's a pleasure to post my work in this place!!

Jerrod, the grip is quite easy. You shape the wood core to the finished form with all the flutes, then you wrap the wire as tight as you would on a flat grip and secure the ends. Lastly, you hammer the wire into the flutes (with a smooth rounded chisel or similar, to prevent cutting or kinking the wire). The wire will stretch and stay in the flutes because it's annealed. 

As for the sparring abuse: If the hilt is made of 1045 or better, the damage will be on the surface only, nothing deep. Some fencing masters (Pietro Monte for example) advised to have the hilt hardened except for the part where the tang goes through the crossguard. Just make sure your blade and hilt are bit harder than your opponents ;) (which is easy considering the soft stuff most people buy from the standard retailers)


Here are some pics of this sword after three days of hard sparring at last weekends event. The cutting edge is less than 1mm and was not rounded - still no deep burrs. The hilt got some chips, but that just adds to the authenticity :D




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