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Jeremy Blohm

Very simple beginners propane forge!!!

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Picked up the other turkey fryer today, the burner design is a little different so we will we how this one works.;)

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Straight up copied and modified! Blower hunt begins! Set a cut block on the backside. It's not permanently set, but held lightly by the angle iron. I do have some premade refractory cement that I'd like to line the seams. I'm super excited at how easy this was!

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Looks really good I hope everything works out.

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any testing info on this design yet? really keen to know if it can get up to welding temp

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I have not tried to weld with it yet. I am still waiting on a Freon bottle to build a proper forge with kaowool and I need to get some refractory for a coating. tomorrow I will swing into my buddy's shop and se if he brought in any Freon bottle from the pile at his house and I will build the forge and do the promised testing. I can try to weld with the fire brick but I have a feeling they will soak up too much heat.

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the fire brick forge will get a file to an almost yellow heat though so who knows after it is well heated up it might weld.

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That was my concern about the bricks.  They do not insulate, so this design relies on raw power.  Not that that is a bad thing, it's cheap and fast.  I just think doing it out of soft insulating bricks would be more efficient if you can get them.  They're still relatively cheap, plus they are easy to shape.  You can carve them with a spoon!  

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So finally acquired a fryer burner and did a test run.

Well first gas came out and was ignited and ran!  

Only issue I noticed was I wasn't getting the blue flame as what was in the video. I'm assuming that I have too much oxygen or not enough propane. Had flames (orange/yellow) coming out the front pretty heavily. 

This was proof of concept but any advice on how to get that more blue flame. The regulator is 0-30 PSI. 

Any and all in put is welcomed!!!

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Hmmmm I guess I never really pay much attention to flame color much any more bit I know when its all heated up the whole thing glows and orange-ish white color. I no longer have the original concept so I can't do any testing but I will throw another together and check it out. The regulator has plenty of psi. I'm sorry to anyone who has been waiting for me to do the welding tests. The only reason I don't have it is because I sold an anvil to a guy and I gave him the forge and some wool to get him started. But I have all the parts to build another and I will start that tomorrow and document the whole build. And I am going to build it using my cheap harbor freight welder and basic tools I'm going to do it that way because I wanna do it in a beginners prospective. This forge is going to be more like a real forge with no fire brick. The only thing I have to do is order the itc-100 to seal the wool. I need to clear that with my financial advisor  (the wife).:D

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On Sun Jan 28 2018 at 11:34 AM, Alan Longmire said:

That was my concern about the bricks.  They do not insulate, so this design relies on raw power.  Not that that is a bad thing, it's cheap and fast.  I just think doing it out of soft insulating bricks would be more efficient if you can get them.  They're still relatively cheap, plus they are easy to shape.  You can carve them with a spoon!  

I really find my one-brick, from soft brick, handy but mine only made it about two small knives worth before I had to wire wrap it due to cracking. The humidity here on the coast may be to blame and not wanting to mess around too much with a "junior" forge to my Chile I came up with some insulating wool and a piece of stove pipe. I never got far enough to coat the interior because the torch that worked so well for the one-brick was out of its league and I couldn't figure out one just slightly bigger that I could run off a bigger tank than the little hand torch. I ended up sticking to the wired up brick. 

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11 hours ago, Adam C. said:

So finally acquired a fryer burner and did a test run.

Well first gas came out and was ignited and ran!  

Only issue I noticed was I wasn't getting the blue flame as what was in the video. I'm assuming that I have too much oxygen or not enough propane. Had flames (orange/yellow) coming out the front pretty heavily. 

This was proof of concept but any advice on how to get that more blue flame. The regulator is 0-30 PSI. 

Any and all in put is welcomed!!!

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I think you need to add the longer burner tube mentioned earlier.  Then you can start playing with the choke plate to adjust the air/fuel mix.  You aren't getting enough air from the sou d of it.  Another four to six inches of pipe should do it, and don't stifk it So far into the forge.

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When I made the burner extension I drilled the hole in the brick the size of the pipe and when i put he flare on the pipe i slid it in the  hole and the flair sat flush with the roof of the forge then I just used a hose clamp to hold it in the hole. When I make the next one I will have some detailed photo's. 

Edited by Jeremy Blohm

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Ok, that gives me a guideline to work with. I'll source some scrap black pipe and flare it out. 

But no objections with the ball valve and the nipple and elbow. Used the highest gas rated thread tape I could get. I know not to tape flare fittings. 

I'll be doing test runs and post any results

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I don't know what the fix is, but that is not nearly enough air getting mixed in.  

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5 minutes ago, Brian Dougherty said:

I don't know what the fix is, but that is not nearly enough air getting mixed in.  

What if I moved the back wall brick?

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No, you need air coming in with the gas.  That flat plate on the top/back of the burner is the choke.  Loosen those two screw and slide it around so the slots are as wide open as they can go and try it again.  If that doesn't do much, make the slots longer until it does.  Or just take the choke plate off entirely and use tape to adjust the mix.  There will be a point where the flames stay in the forge for the most part.  That's what you want.  If the thing coming out is hot air or blue flame you have too much air coming in with the gas. Ideally you want just a bit of orange flame at the opening.

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I did the adjustment on the choke. Started with closed and worked it open slowly. Final picture was with choke taken off. Also controlled gas flow as well with ball valve. I'll finish this cigarette and poke around with it again. 

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I'd consider two things: dropping the pressure of the fuel, ( not full throttle) and if you have a spare brick drill a 1" or larger hole in it to replace the back brick.

It is difficult to translate the requirements of a small forge by simply down scaling or reverse extrapolating from a large forge. I think there is a possibility that with the pressure of the fuel plus what air the vacuum draw pull draws in, there may not be enough O2 in the forge chamber. This would force the mixture, rich OR lean, into the outside atmosphere to get a complete burn.

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Umm it's a fairly breezy day, but even with the back wall removed, it's still basically a box with flames bellowing out in all directions. Valve set to lowest and slowly increased till i was worried. 

My only assumptions are: 

1) the forging God's want me to stick with charcoal.

2) not all bootleg forges are the same

3) there is a space time anomaly inside the forge box and is preventing it from operation

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It's the size of the orifice that's the problem.

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It just occurred to me, what does the regulator look like?  That's where you adjust the gas, not with the ball valve.  That's just for emergency shutoff.  And yes, the orifice may be too big.  If the burner ring you cut off was full of tiny holes rather than the big grooves Jeremy's had, it may have been design for the ring itself to act as a compound orifice.  

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16 hours ago, Adam C. said:

Wide open and it's not a stream or focused heat source

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The orfice has been changed to this 1/8 inch black pipe. The only thing original is the burner tube. If he can figure out how to use the orfice with this hose and regulator he will be golden otherwise the original hose and regulator and orfice will fix the problem. 

I will hopefully get some testing done this weekend. We have been passing the flu around and my 5 year old son has it right now and he has it worse than all of us had it.

Edit: changing the hose and regulator was a good idea because the hose supplied is very short. And because all of the fryers are based on this design but actually designed differently it's hard to say what the easiest fix for this problem would be. But whatever you change the orfice needs to stay the same.

If anyone has any questions about this feel free to ask. I don't care if this thread is 5 years old you can still ask a question on it. Or feel free to PM me and I will gladly help you through everything.

Edited by Jeremy Blohm

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