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Gerhard

Improvised gas forge build

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Hi

New here so I'm not sure about the thread-hi-jacking etiquette, so I'll start my own thread for seeking advice and documenting my success or failure by thanking Jeremy Blohm for giving me the idea in his   thread

I tested the setup yesterday afternoon, everything as is, and I sure made some heat.

There are a few issue I want to try and improve, and things might change considerably when I've cut off the burner rings.

I have one (major) concern and a question.

Firstly, the 9kg LPG bottle was full, I fetched it from the shed, and after about 5 minutes testing I could feel a considerable weight difference while putting the bottle away.  I'm slightly worried this might turn out to be extremely uneconomical.....

As far as the forge is concerned, I can get leftover fire bricks from a friend for a good price, will need to buy angle iron for the frame. I also have some kind of old gas bottle that's the right size, and I might  be able to get that fire wool stuff locally, not 100% sure it's the right stuff though.....what do you recommend?

 

Thanks

Gerhard

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I phoned the supplier, they're going to send me data sheets on what they've got.

I asked him about the stuff (ignorance is bliss) you apply over the wool..........they have that, but they supply to mines in 50kg bags.......

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The fire brick is easier to get that the wool but the wool will insulate better than the brick. I am going to build a little gasser using a Freon bottle and I'm going to see what the differences between the 2 are. After I drop the kids off at school I'm going to a friends shop and see if he has a couple Freon bottles laying around.  The burner that I have isn't too bad on gas but I have t ran it for more than 10 minutes but I'm going to do some real forging without in the next day or so and see how it dose on fuel consumption. 

Edited by Jeremy Blohm

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Thanks Jeremy, eager to hear your results.

I figured it would be tough not to have leaks between the bricks.

Still don't have the quote and spec sheets, so I'll see what tomorrow brings.

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There was some leakage at the corners but that was partly because part of the corners was chipped up but down the seams it seemed ok and maybe a little refractory morter between them would help also but I'm not sure of the availability in your area. I'm heading to my buddy's shop to see what he has for Freon bottles and I will let you know how it works.

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Gerhard, it could be worth asking if they might have a torn or dropped bag of the coating; sometimes one falls off or gets bumped or something.

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13 hours ago, Gerhard said:

and I might  be able to get that fire wool stuff locally, not 100% sure it's the right stuff though.....what do you recommend?

I use nutec max wool hps but the htz has a higher temp rating but I haven't had any problems with it not handling the temps I put it through but the flux from welding eats holes in it really fast if any is exposed but it should have a good coating of refractory on it and that should prevent it from being eaten away by the flux. The reasom i use the max wool hps is because there was a out door wood stove manufacturer that went out of business and I scored 17 boxes 48 inches wide for dirt cheap.:D

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I got a reply, the linings they have a glass fiber based, so I assume that won't work......seems meant for insulating pipes etc.

Then, C1010 Thermal Insulating Plaster.  Only rated to 1000C, but I'm starting to think that combined with the bricks might be the answer.

I cut off the rings last night and tried to improve the fit of the baffles a bit, looks like there's serious heat but it's also very finicky, adjust it perfectly and when I take way my fingers it dies......I think it'll be a battle tuning it, and if it sits vertically that might be a whole new story...... 

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1 hour ago, Gerhard said:

I cut off the rings last night and tried to improve the fit of the baffles a bit, looks like there's serious heat but it's also very finicky, adjust it perfectly and when I take way my fingers it dies......I think it'll be a battle tuning it, and if it sits vertically that might be a whole new story...... 

It will probably run better once you get it in the chamber. 

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I actually managed to get a quote on a product with the same specs as koawool as well as the cement.........7m of the one and 50kg of the other, way too expensive of course.

I bought a few leftover fire bricks from a friend yesterday, need to but some angle iron then the fun can start.

This better work because I'm more than a 1000 in my monopoly money into this build :wacko: :D

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I got the angle iron and threaded rods this week, burning the candle at both ends a bit, but I hope to start assembling tomorrow evening.

I've been considering doubling up the bricks where the flame will be aimed, but I had another idea......

In the soup can forge how to's I've seen the lining is from Plaster of Paris mixed with "river sand"........

I have a bit of swimming pool filter sand left, no idea where to get plaster of Paris, but I'm going to the pharmacy this afternoon anyway....

So what's the opinion? Could that be a good sacrificial lining to protect the bricks?  

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The trouble with Plaster of Paris is that at temperatures over 700 C it reverts to gypsum and lime.  It'll last a little while, but the bricks shouldn't need any protection.

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I tried doing plaster of paris and sand (both at home depot) After heating up and letting it cool down it crumbled into a thousand pieces and anything that did not break was very soft and flaky.

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Check out the Build a Gas forge on my web site at the Forge Supplies page.  I can supply the blanket, castable and IR product at reasonable prices.

Let me know if I can help you.  I prefer e-mail.

 

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Thanks guys.

Next question.......

I was planning on inserting the burner at 45degs  on one of the top edges, partly to get the gas pipe out of the way.  I'm a bit worried because on many of the forges I see a copper pipe feeding the gas?

Any comments or suggestions on the burner placement and the safety of a normal gas pipe? 

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3 hours ago, Wayne Coe said:

Check out the Build a Gas forge on my web site at the Forge Supplies page.  I can supply the blanket, castable and IR product at reasonable prices.

Let me know if I can help you.  I prefer e-mail.

 

Thanks Wayne, if I wasn't on the other side of the world you'd have heard from me already :)

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On 2/16/2018 at 1:04 AM, Gerhard said:

Thanks guys.

Next question.......

I was planning on inserting the burner at 45degs  on one of the top edges, partly to get the gas pipe out of the way.  I'm a bit worried because on many of the forges I see a copper pipe feeding the gas?

Any comments or suggestions on the burner placement and the safety of a normal gas pipe? 

Thus would be a good idea. And remove the burner when you are done forging. We have had one member melt his hose from the chimney effect. If there is gas and air flowing through the tube it is ok but once that stops heat travels from the forge up through the burner.

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Melted it to high hell and back! Take it out after each use. Those blocks radiate heat for a good while!

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Thanks again everybody!

I'm a bit torn between finishing 2 knives and building the forge, but this is the forge's week!

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Wish I was still young and energetic.......at least I got this done.....
Have to admit I could've planned this better......

I got some copper tubing of the right size, so to simplify matters the burner will be upright in the top middle

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Wow!!! This is looking really good. Cant wait to see it running.:D

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:D
New to the welding business :lol:

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Very nice cant wait to see what you can do with it. I havent had much time in the shop lately. Im waiting on some Kast-o-lite from Wayne Coe and in going to finish up my mini forge build with an improvised burner. Another thing i have been working on tha has been taking up some of my already limited time is my belt grinder but i see that being finished in the next couple days. Ok maybe not "finished" but it will be running and going through the finishing touches.

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