Brian Dougherty 1,422 Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 The rule of thumb is ~1kW into the motor for every horsepower that comes out of it so your 1.5kW would probably be closer to 1.5hp, maybe a bit more on a good day. More would be nice to have, but 1.5kW will make a lot of knives if the extra money just isn't there. -Brian Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,882 Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 That's what happens when I use an online conversion tool to translate Kw to HP... Is there a direct correlation, other than both being units of power? I was thinking 1.5Kw output, but I can certainly see if that's the input power required instead the output is necessarily lower by quite a bit. Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Dougherty 1,422 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 19 hours ago, Alan Longmire said: That's what happens when I use an online conversion tool to translate Kw to HP... Is there a direct correlation, other than both being units of power? I was thinking 1.5Kw output, but I can certainly see if that's the input power required instead the output is necessarily lower by quite a bit. Yeah, they rate the motor on what it draws electrically, not what it produces mechanically. Induction motors in this size range are often around 75% efficient which means it takes 933W to produce the 746W out (1hp). Hence the 1kW/hp rule of thumb. 2 -Brian Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,882 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 That makes sense, thanks! Link to post Share on other sites
Wayne Coe 74 Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 It doesn't look like that is not a TEFC (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled) motor. In a grinding environment it probably will not last long. Check out the Motors and VFDs page on my web site. Let me know if I can help you. I prefer e-mail. Wayne Coe Artist Blacksmith 729 Peters Ford Road Sunbright, Tennessee 706-273-8017waynecoe@highland.netwww.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com Link to post Share on other sites
dragoncutlery 93 Posted February 24, 2018 Share Posted February 24, 2018 my motor is open and right next to the contact wheel and lower than my platen which i use almost exclusively never had a problem also i am running a 1.5 which is fine for most things if i spent more time making knives i would upgrade to a 2 or even a 3 if i was doing a lot of stock removal haven't changed my belt speed in 14 years might save me some hand sanding if i did Brandon Sawisch bladesmith eagles may soar but weasels don't get sucked in to jet engines Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Gerber 482 Posted February 27, 2018 Author Share Posted February 27, 2018 Strange question I guess....... It seems I have a choice between profile cutting (with 0.5mm tolerance), or laser cutting which is supposedly very accurate and much neater but might be expensive.... I'm waiting for quotes..... I've asked for either 5mm or 6mm mild steel plate, is that thick enough? Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,882 Posted February 27, 2018 Share Posted February 27, 2018 Laser cut if possible, and go for 9mm plate minimum. 13mm would be even better. The 5mm will bend under the tension, and the 6mm might unless you weld gussets on it, which will then warp it. 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Gerber 482 Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 Thanks Alan, acted on advice from my friend with the engineering shop.........should've asked here before I requested the quotes Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Gerber 482 Posted February 28, 2018 Author Share Posted February 28, 2018 New problem, the drawings are not on scale, and no scale indicated. Both companies I contacted got back to me on the matter. You could guess, but then you might end up with a standard belt being too long or too short.......? Link to post Share on other sites
Alex Middleton 831 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 Did you send them the .dxf files, or the pdf's? They should be able to read the .dxf's into just about any CAD software and they will come through in full scale. They may just have to convert from imperial to metric or vice-versa. Link to post Share on other sites
JJ Simon 127 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 I just had these cut. They are on scale. You need to use the CAD files. Link to post Share on other sites
Wesley Alberson 151 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 (edited) If someone only has access to single phase power, it it feasible to use a stepper motor with a high rpm and a pulse controller to control the speed of the grinder? Edited February 28, 2018 by Wesley Alberson "Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man" -The Dude, Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rougemont_forge/ Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,882 Posted February 28, 2018 Share Posted February 28, 2018 4 hours ago, Wesley Alberson said: If someone only has access to single phase power, it it feasible to use a stepper motor with a high rpm and a pulse controller to control the speed of the grinder? That seems a strange way to go about it to me. Would that be smooth? VFDs are the way to go. Single phase input, three-phase output. Link to post Share on other sites
Wesley Alberson 151 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 9 hours ago, Alan Longmire said: That seems a strange way to go about it to me. Would that be smooth? VFDs are the way to go. Single phase input, three-phase output. Ah, ok. I thought all this time that you need 3 phase input for a VFD, and the VFD simply changed the frequency. What is the most common VFD that people buy for this setup? After a quick search I found this: https://www.wolfautomation.com/index.php/catalog/product/view/id/8663/s/ac-drive-3hp-12a/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIupfhm6LK2QIVjVcNCh0KsAZdEAYYASABEgJ6Q_D_BwE I made my grinder with a variable pulley system, and I'm not really happy with it, everything is too fast. That being said, I am currently powering my shop with a drop cord and I can only run 120V power to my shop. As long as I use fresh belts, wood doesn't burn and steel doesn't overheat too fast. "Yeah, well, you know, that's just, like, your opinion, man" -The Dude, Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/rougemont_forge/ Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Gerber 482 Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 16 hours ago, Alex Middleton said: Did you send them the .dxf files, or the pdf's? They should be able to read the .dxf's into just about any CAD software and they will come through in full scale. They may just have to convert from imperial to metric or vice-versa. 16 hours ago, JJ Simon said: I just had these cut. They are on scale. You need to use the CAD files. Very strange, I did send them the CAD files because I assume that's the input of the cutter, both companies came back and told me the parts are very small, like the main horizontal part on their software is 8cm long. Anyway, I found another supplier in South Africa that sells grinders in kit form, the frame in the kit even with transport is cheaper than I can have it cut locally. Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Longmire 3,882 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 8 hours ago, Wesley Alberson said: Ah, ok. I thought all this time that you need 3 phase input for a VFD, and the VFD simply changed the frequency. What is the most common VFD that people buy for this setup? After a quick search I found this: https://www.wolfautomation.com/index.php/catalog/product/view/id/8663/s/ac-drive-3hp-12a/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIupfhm6LK2QIVjVcNCh0KsAZdEAYYASABEgJ6Q_D_BwE I made my grinder with a variable pulley system, and I'm not really happy with it, everything is too fast. That being said, I am currently powering my shop with a drop cord and I can only run 120V power to my shop. As long as I use fresh belts, wood doesn't burn and steel doesn't overheat too fast. Look back in this thread to find a link to Wayne Coe's site. He sells a couple of different models for different horsepower requirements. Link to post Share on other sites
Gerhard Gerber 482 Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 My one concern is I'm now buying a VSD instead of a VFD.........I'm hoping my purchase is just described with a less accurate acronym! Link to post Share on other sites
Aaron Money 0 Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 (edited) On 2/8/2018 at 10:34 AM, Alan Longmire said: I'll just put them here on the forum as well. in all three configs, plus the assembly photo, so there! The drawings in one .zip file: drawings1a.zip Individually: part1.DXF Part2.DXF Part3.DXF Part4.DXF Part5.DXF Part7.DXF Part8.DXF part9.DXF baseplate.DXF NOTE: There is no part 6. don't ask for it! and finally, the drawing of all parts on a single sheet of steel: onepiece.zip These are the plans I used to build my grinder but I welded my parts instead of bolts. I love this grinder! I also modified it to run with pillow blocks and a belt because I don’t have a vfd yet. I had my parts cut on a plasma table with no holes except the large one for the motor so I can add a direct drive at a later date. I absolutely love my grinder even though it only runs at one speed. Edited April 21, 2018 by Aaron Money Link to post Share on other sites
MathewKellerKinmond 0 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 thank you! this will work great in my shop Link to post Share on other sites
Wellburn 6 Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 Made from simple plate steel bolted together 1 Link to post Share on other sites
Vern Wimmer 488 Posted June 22, 2018 Share Posted June 22, 2018 (edited) Now there is a DIY I could definitely consider. I would think about a solid bar bolted to the base plate at the bottom of the two panels with them bolted to it. I also think it would need a spring on the moveable arm as a tensioner. Edited June 22, 2018 by Vern Wimmer Link to post Share on other sites
Wellburn 6 Posted June 23, 2018 Share Posted June 23, 2018 13 hours ago, Vern Wimmer said: Now there is a DIY I could definitely consider. I would think about a solid bar bolted to the base plate at the bottom of the two panels with them bolted to it. I also think it would need a spring on the moveable arm as a tensioner. I tried using a spring but it seemed to develop a kind of bounce to it which was very irritating so I used a car boot gas lift from eBay Link to post Share on other sites
Ross Vosloo 174 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 On 3/1/2018 at 3:47 PM, Gerhard said: My one concern is I'm now buying a VSD instead of a VFD.........I'm hoping my purchase is just described with a less accurate acronym! hey Gerhard, VFD, VSD, same thing. One stands for Variable Frequency Drive, the other is Variable Speed Drive. they both do the same thing in the same way, by varying the frequency out to the motor. My day job is as an Electrical Technician, and i use these things every day. too bad that with what they cost landed here in Zim, i could never afford one. a 1.5kW single phase in costs over $1100 US. Ross Vosloo Mhara Knives made in Zimbabwe https://www.mharaknives.com Link to post Share on other sites
JeffM 76 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 (edited) Gerhard I have a complete set of plans in DXF format that are to scale designed to be either plasma or laser cut The difference being I sized bolt holes for drilling and tapping to eliminate as many nuts and and bolts as possible If you still need plans let me know and I can send them to you. Edited June 25, 2018 by JeffM add an image Link to post Share on other sites
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