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What kind of epoxy do you guys use for your handles and other bits? I've tried the loctite 5 minute stuff from Home Depot, worked fine but set up too fast for my liking. Got a 20 minute epoxy, 2:1 mix, from System Three. It could totally be from my inability to measure simple ratios, but I've been having issues with the epoxy letting go of the wood and/or metal. 

I clean and rough up all surfaces before glue up. I don't put any holes in the tang except for the pin holes, which may make a difference. Normally I use a liner of black construction paper/felt stuff from the hobby store to fill in any uneven bits between metal and handle material, also makes it look good.

So basically, not sure if it's me being an inferior epoxy-er, or if I'm using an inferior epoxy. 

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West System's G/Flex and Brownell's AcraGlass seems to be the most trusted. I use G/Flex.

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Posted (edited)

I use JB weld. On my first couple of knives I used the 5 minute stuff, and the handles are falling off of all of those knives. I haven’t had a problem since I switched.

Edited by Mason Simonet

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I use west systems GFlex and their other products. All marine rated epoxies.

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Another vote for AcraGlass

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+1 Gflex. I had to rehandle a blade not too long ago (customer didn't like the feel). It was a sandwich construction of G10 on a full hidden tang. It was a real challenge! I tried beating it with a hammer, burning it, prying it. I finally opened up a big enough crack to pry it off. Gflex is no joke. 

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AcraGlass or West Gflex.  Either one will do fine.  I've never had good luck with anything from the hardware stores.

Doug

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I really like G2 epoxy from Lee Valley. Works great on exotic hardwoods.

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Maybe I'm just running on borrowed time, but ive actually had really god luck with hardware store 5 min epoxy.  I put a stone bit in my Dremel and cut swirly grooves on both sides of my tang and on both handle scales and then make sure everything is clean and dry before glue up.

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Here is a good long thread about epoxy. Two guys researched and recorded how different epoxies  preformed and made a spreadsheet telling what epoxy is best for what materials and how they all preformed. Long read but it is worth it

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27463

 

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I use Devcon Flowmix 2 ton---the 12 hour cure stuff. Have yet to have any issues with it.

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52 minutes ago, Thomas Kadatz said:

Here is a good long thread about epoxy. Two guys researched and recorded how different epoxies  preformed and made a spreadsheet telling what epoxy is best for what materials and how they all preformed. Long read but it is worth it

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27463

 

Ah, the famous Glue Wars thread!  I was gonna link to that later, thanks.  I think I'll pin this so it wil be easy to find.  Maybe move it to Fit and Finish as well.

I've used many things, and as soon as I run out of the bottles of T-88 I have I will go to G-flex.  Accraglas is indestructible, and I will continue using it for things like antler stick tangs.  It is kind of a pain to work with, though.

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I have used (and continue to do so) a variety of epoxies. What ever you use, keep the mixing pallet and stir stick on the bench while the epoxy sets. Come back after the amount of time that the product instructions tell you it needs to set up and check the pallet and stick. If the leftovers on the mixing pallet aren't set up, you either missed the mixture or are using defective material. Take the handle apart, clean it up and start again.

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7 hours ago, Joshua States said:

I have used (and continue to do so) a variety of epoxies. What ever you use, keep the mixing pallet and stir stick on the bench while the epoxy sets. Come back after the amount of time that the product instructions tell you it needs to set up and check the pallet and stick. If the leftovers on the mixing pallet aren't set up, you either missed the mixture or are using defective material. Take the handle apart, clean it up and start again.

I learned that lesson at least once, and now I do exactly that.  It is excellent advice 

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I continue to use AcraGlas for two main  reasons.  One is that it has four  times the resin in the mixed condition which gives it extra toughness.  Two  is that it doesn't degrade like most epoxies.  Most will  last no  more that 8-10 years (or less) before degrading where AcraGlas is good for 100 years.

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I've been using Gorilla epoxy for a few years now and had no issues with it .......

I also check the mix leftovers in the set time.

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Okay.

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Here is a question i have not seen yet.

What epoxy would be dish washer safe for use on stainless kitchen knives?

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If you read that Glue Wars thread, they tested for that.  The general consensus is that Accraglas can handle it, but you really need pins or Corby bolts or cutler's rivets for a secure mechanical grip as well.

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10 hours ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

Here is a question i have not seen yet.

What epoxy would be dish washer safe for use on stainless kitchen knives?

Dishwasher?!?!  That's Sacrilege man! Even for stainless. 

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12 hours ago, Joshua States said:

Dishwasher?!?!  That's Sacrilege man! Even for stainless. 

 Its not me the knives have to worry about it's the wifey. When i do dishes they are all done by hand. I dont know how many times i have told my wife there are certain things that dont go in the dishwasher and they always end up there anyway.

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On 4/1/2018 at 10:24 AM, Jeremy Blohm said:

 Its not me the knives have to worry about it's the wifey. When i do dishes they are all done by hand. I dont know how many times i have told my wife there are certain things that dont go in the dishwasher and they always end up there anyway.

Well you'd better make her some with synthetic handle materials like micarta because any natural handle material will fail in the dishwasher.

OK. So here's my secret epoxy for super duper performance under any circumstances. I can only tell you if you promise not to tell anyone else.......

Simpson SET construction adhesive. This is a structural epoxy meant for anchoring steel bolts into concrete. Thick as pig snot. Sets in 7 minutes so work fast. It's a really ugly grey color, so don't get it on anything that is visible (including your fingers). Not for the faint of heart.

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