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Aiden CC

Swiss Army Knife WIP

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Gee, can't see how you managed to conclude that it was in Celcius, nope, not at all:rolleyes:

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1 hour ago, Vern Wimmer said:

Gee, can't see how you managed to conclude that it was in Celcius, nope, not at all:rolleyes:

Yeah, no idea :P

Anyways, I did it! Now I’m going to bed. 81B28031-1BA9-4FA8-9317-689F20ABB1B7.jpeg

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Hi Aiden

Excellent work!

Not on your level but still impressive, you might get a kick out of this guy's modding work: http://www.sakmodder.com/index.shtml

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Good save!  And 61.8 HRC?  Is that tempered, or as-quenched?  

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12 hours ago, Aiden CC said:

Turns out we just got the furnace I used from another college and it was set to Fahrenheit (despite it having “Actual C” printed on it). Doing another try today. 

At least it wasn't the other way around.  Things might have gotten a bit toasty!

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2 hours ago, Gerhard said:

Hi Aiden

Excellent work!

Not on your level but still impressive, you might get a kick out of this guy's modding work: http://www.sakmodder.com/index.shtml

His custom scales look pretty good! I’m still debating what I want to do for the handle of mine. 

 

56 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

Good save!  And 61.8 HRC?  Is that tempered, or as-quenched?  

As quenched, but right after I threw it in the Fahrenheit furnace at 375 for a two hour temper (just to avoid the liability of carrying around and un-tempered blade). Got it this morning and hardness on both blades still 61-63 depending where I checked. I know there is liquid nitrogen in the chemistry lab, I’m going to ask the lab director if I can use some for a cryo treatment, then I’m going to temper back to around 61-62. On the SAK, I’ll probably aim for a bit more toughness since the blades are so thin, and aim for mid 40s with the springs.

 

32 minutes ago, Brian Dougherty said:

At least it wasn't the other way around.  Things might have gotten a bit toasty!

True! Though the furnaces only go up to 1125 C, and really struggle in the upper 200 degrees. 

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Plan is to start cryo tomorrow morning. The cold thing I have access to is liquid nitrogen, however, I don’t think just dunking the blades would be good practice (thermal stress and all), though I could be wrong. Current plan is to have a container with liquid nitrogen with the blades supported above the level, or in a nested container to have a gentler cooling rate. Then I’ll test the hardness and temper again, probably around 450 F, with an aim hardness of 60-61. 

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FA2B1D1F-8D00-4608-AB61-A3356DCC8267.jpeg

Starting on the cryo on the test-blades! We’re out of stainless foil, but should have some Monday to heat treat the blades/springs so I can assemble and check the action!

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I guess that beats the old dry-ice and acetone trick.........

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By about 210 degrees, in fact! :ph34r:

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It is a bit of overkill, but I figured I should use it since I have it. More stainless foil came yesterday, so when I find some spare time I'll harden the blades and springs then put it all together!

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Got everything hardened!

B7443B46-AB50-4B00-BD68-9CDC4A3098B3.jpeg

I put everything in two packets since it’s all so small, and I wanted to save time and foil. 

 

BA93CCD5-6510-47FF-B5E6-7C74AD2FDDD1.jpeg

I still love the color stainless knives are when they come out of the foil. 

 

92F2DBE3-F42E-4B48-BA81-099DAF66080C.jpeg

Everything is nice and hard! Currently in liquid nitrogen for cryo, plan is to temper the blades back to 61 and springs to 45. Is that too hard for thin blades like this?

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Wow!

I think tempering back to Rc 60 on the cutting blades will be fine.  Any harder and it's too hard to sharpen them.  Might go to the 50s on the other tools.  I'd hate to have the screwdriver too hard.  Your knife, though!  

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52 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

Wow!

I think tempering back to Rc 60 on the cutting blades will be fine.  Any harder and it's too hard to sharpen them.  Might go to the 50s on the other tools.  I'd hate to have the screwdriver too hard.  Your knife, though!  

That’s a good point. I checked this morning and the blades were 62 ish and the springs 53. Put everything back in at a higher temp to try and get it all a bit softer. I’ll definitely run the tools again with an softer temper after I get the blades to the aim hardness. 

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5B3B1545-176D-4A30-8990-826EF4FF6B2F.jpeg

All goes together! Needs some small refinements to fit, then on to finishing! Also, the blades are still at 62.5, so they get one more cycle. 

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That is impressive work Aiden!  I am excited to see it.  One of my first knives as a kid was a Swiss Army knife.  I wish I still had it.

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I am just flabbergasted. What a great project.

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5C08FAA6-4C3F-43A1-8789-D9F1C32C9CAA.jpeg

 

This has been on the backburner for a while, but soon I’ll have a few weeks to hopefully get it done before I start my summer internship. The real SAKs have round brass rivet blocks which seat inside the covers, so I turned them while I still have access to a lathe.  

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I'm getting to the place where I need to start thinking about the covers for the handle, and was wondering if anyone has any input (I may make a new thread for this question in design and critique). I have a lot of woods, but I think a synthetic handle would be more in line with the "philosophy" of the knife as tough and low maintenance. I have some black G10 scales as well as blue and white liner material, but would definitely be open to other suggestions. Red paper micarta is possibly the closest thing to the originals, and might look more SAK than the texture of G10.

I'll take a picture to show this, but basically all of the pins get peened into the brass rivet blocks I turned on the lathe, which then sit in counterbores in the handle covers when they get epoxied on and act as hidden pins. I don't have a lot of experience with synthetic handle material, so any input would be appreciated.

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Polycarbonate is nice tough material that comes in sheet form.  It is normally clear, but I know you can find it in black at McMaster.  Red might be more difficult to come by.

You've come this far, I think you would have to go with red, and replace the Victorinox logo with your maker's mark :)

 

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Posted (edited)

The sky is the limit for handles. I can think of a dozen options off hand. The home made micarta field creates great possibilities and, since you've pretty much done everything but mine the ore/smelt the steel so far, would be a fitting "hand made bow" on the pakage.

Edited by Vern Wimmer

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My vote would be for a nice jigged bone. If you want to use synthetic material, there are loads of acrylics out there in lots of cool colors. Check out Jantz for options

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On 5/24/2018 at 9:18 AM, Brian Dougherty said:

Polycarbonate is nice tough material that comes in sheet form.  It is normally clear, but I know you can find it in black at McMaster.  Red might be more difficult to come by.

You've come this far, I think you would have to go with red, and replace the Victorinox logo with your maker's mark :)

 

I looked a bit, and it seems like finding opaque, red, polycarbonate might be difficult. I definitely want something tough.

On 5/24/2018 at 4:39 PM, Vern Wimmer said:

The sky is the limit for handles. I can think of a dozen options off hand. The home made micarta field creates great possibilities and, since you've pretty much done everything but mine the ore/smelt the steel so far, would be a fitting "hand made bow" on the pakage.

I may try and make some at some point, that could be fun for sure. I may end up getting a few different options.

On 5/26/2018 at 8:07 PM, Joshua States said:

My vote would be for a nice jigged bone. If you want to use synthetic material, there are loads of acrylics out there in lots of cool colors. Check out Jantz for options

I had definitely thought about doing jigged bone and stainless bolsters, but I want to try the hidden rivet blocks like Victorinox does. I do have some jigged bone and antler sitting around (I don't think the stag would really match the look). My concern about bone is that it isn't as tough as a synthetic would be, and without bolsters, the ends of the handle wouldn't be as durable. I'll still consider it, it may even be worth trying bolsters and covers with hidden pins.

I thought I would have some time to work on this project, but things have been fairly hectic getting ready to move to Kentucky for an engineering internship this summer, and I've been trying to prep a bunch of "kits" to work on while I'm there, and this project kind of got put on the back burner. I was talking with the person I'm renting a room from, and it turns out he has a full wood shop in his garage and does carpentry professionally, so I may have access to some tools, but it will likely be a little while before I get around to finishing this up. 

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How about one of these?

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