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Charles dP

Ender (being a third)

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Hello everyone

I have come back from a handle-making class at Owen Bush’s forge and here is my third knife. Had lots of fun at the class and met some nice people. 

The blade I forged at Owen’s last year but ground at home (from 1070-ish). It started as a scandi grind but I lost the bevel somewhere along the way so that it is slightly convex with no bevel but still sharp enough to shave arm-hair.

AOL 29.5cm / 11-1/2”

Blade 14cm / 5 - 5/8”; 2.5cm / 1” wide. 3mm / 1/8” thick at the handle.

The handle is walnut. The ferrule and butt plate are heat-patina’d copper with copper pins and a peened tang. The front of the handle is filled with cutlers resin.

D6489654-15C0-41B6-94B5-36057A4B34D5.jpeg

F1998DCD-F596-4A91-A008-65937AD3CE7C.jpeg

A231509F-6B84-4272-A5CC-2D98C735F593.jpeg

Comments and critique welcome. Thanks.

Edited by Charles du Preez
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Nice little no-nonsense blade!  I particularly like the copper ferrule thingy.  Gonna make a sheath for it to live in?

I suppose I need to read the Ender series, it's only been out thirty-some years...:rolleyes:

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Thanks Alan. The sheath is next on the cards. I got a leatherwork kit for my birthday and Making Leather Knife Sheats vol 1&2. I’ve only read Enders Game myself (the quote is from the movie). The rest of them are on the Christmas list.

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I second what Alan said. Nice, clean, simple, and practical. Looks great. 

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The little ridges on the ferrule will be a nice gripping area for hand security in use. Make a good sock knife in the same wearing style as the sgian dubh. 

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Thanks guys. Much appreciated. Garry, this one is a bit big for socks (well, mine at least) but if you mean I should make one like this as a sgian dubh, I think that is an excellent idea, thanks.

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An armonious mix of shapes and colors. Well done sir!

I gotta use walnut more, it's an underrated wood for sure. 

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20 hours ago, Charles du Preez said:

Thanks guys. Much appreciated. Garry, this one is a bit big for socks (well, mine at least) but if you mean I should make one like this as a sgian dubh, I think that is an excellent idea, thanks.

Yours reminded me of this one I made for a friend as a sock knife. 4 inch blade with copper and blackwood. Nothing fancy but it was what he wanted.

IMG_20180404_123116.jpg

Edited by Garry Keown

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Thanks Joël.

I like that one Garry. Looks like a handy EDC to have around.

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Nice one! I like the bolster. If you ever want to use sheet metal between the copper plates, there's a two-part epoxy putty that works really well to fill the void with a stable, machinable substrata. 

Alan, I can't believe you've never read Ender's Game! It's like an afternoon's read and it's one of the most influential fiction novels (in terms of military training theory) that has ever been written! It's required reading in the US Army War College. 

In terms of the other "Ender" novels, Speaker for the Dead is meh. The later Ender prequels, etc. are entertaining, especially Ender's Shadow, but none of them hold a candle to Ender's Game. It's my second favorite Sci-Fi novel (Starship Troopers being #1).  I'm mostly a fantasy lit guy.

Sorry to thread hijack and geek out . . .just saw the Ender reference.

Cheers!

Dave

 

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OK to further Geek it up,

I'm a big fan of Gordon Dickson's Dorsai series and Jerry Pournell's Hammer's Slammers. 

The Scottish angle of the Dorsai appeals to my genetics. 

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Hijack away. I’m getting some good reading tips :)

@Dave Stephens, what is the putty called? The ones I’ve tried on other things seem very crumbly. Thanks.

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Charles, 

I use this stuff, since we have a bunch of it for making repairs to boats.  It works great (even hardens under water).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRQ0TW?aaxitk=28krLd3F0BY-f-AfULsg9w&pd_rd_i=B000BRQ0TW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3534726502&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pf_rd_i=two+part+epoxy+putty+marine&hsa_cr_id=8628250640501

Once it hardens it's like a very dense plastic. Great for filling antler that has porous center (just drill out the porous stuff and shove this stuff in).

My favorite trick with this stuff is precision tang fits. Drill out a large part of your handle material, stuff it full of this epoxy, coat your tang with vaseline or another grease, slide the tang into putty and then pull it back out. After it hardens, the putty seems to expand a little bit, so I leave the tang a little thicker/wider than I want it, and then grind it down a bit after the putty hardens. No more hours spent with needle files to fit a tang to a grip!

Dave

 

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2 hours ago, Dave Stephens said:

... coat your tang with vaseline or another grease, slide the tang into putty and then pull it back out...

 

Neat.  Back in my rifle action bedding days, I used to spray parts with store brand cooking spray.  It worked prettys well as a release agent with acraglas.  I bet it would work well with the putty too if you want something a little handier than wiping on grease.  (All be it more expensive, and less eco-friendly)

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Yup, non-stick cooking spray works well with accraglass. Bedded a couple of M-1s with it. Accraglass would probably hold upwell for knife handle bedding but it is a bit spendy since it's a hoity-toity gunsmithing thing.

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Thanks for the tips guys

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So I finally got round to making a sheath for this one. I decided to stick with the Ender theme. The logo at the top is the badge for Dragon Army and the one at the bottom for the International Fleet. The logo edges were scorched and the background textured. The welt is shaped to the blade inside and the holding strap is above the bolster. Keeping straight edges needs some work. In hindsight, I should have used some antique stain to bring out the texturing around the dragon. Also not sure what happened: I let the (Fiebing’s) stain dry overnight (as suggested ina book on sheath-making) and this morning the sheath is like cuir bouilli. I’ve put Dubbin on it a couple of hours ago and it’s still rock hard.

529F0170-04BF-432E-B803-6CD6E23FF267.jpeg432E19F4-A408-4171-93A7-695A51E0D83B.jpeg

Any hints, tips and criticism welcome. Would running the sheath edges on the belt grinder be a very bad thing (lengthwise)? Thanks.

Edited by Charles du Preez

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I always sand the edges on the belt grinder.  Slow speed, fine grit.  I do it before using dye, though.  Just in case I scuff anything, you know.  Then after dyeing it I'll burnish the edge with a polished antler burnisher and a little gum tragacanth to make it nice and shiny.

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Thanks Alan. I’ll get out the grinder when we next see the sun around here.

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Thanks Sam

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17 hours ago, Charles du Preez said:

So I finally got round to making a sheath for this one. I decided to stick with the Ender theme. The logo at the top is the badge for Dragon Army and the one at the bottom for the International Fleet. The logo edges were scorched and the background textured. The welt is shaped to the blade inside and the holding strap is above the bolster. Keeping straight edges needs some work. In hindsight, I should have used some antique stain to bring out the texturing around the dragon. Also not sure what happened: I let the (Fiebing’s) stain dry overnight (as suggested ina book on sheath-making) and this morning the sheath is like cuir bouilli. I’ve put Dubbin on it a couple of hours ago and it’s still rock hard.

529F0170-04BF-432E-B803-6CD6E23FF267.jpeg432E19F4-A408-4171-93A7-695A51E0D83B.jpeg

Any hints, tips and criticism welcome. Would running the sheath edges on the belt grinder be a very bad thing (lengthwise)? Thanks.

A fitting sheath for the knife, like the both of them! Two thumbs up!!

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Wow, nice knife. Love the copper bolster. Mind if I ask how you did the patina? I work mainly with copper for my guards and bolsters and would love to mix it up a bit 

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Thank you both. Ross that is just heat-patina’d with an oxy-acetylene torch (before final fitting). Heated to a dull glow and air cooled. I also like the effect you get with Liver of Sulphur but I haven’t tried that yet.

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What Alan said about belt grinder on the edges, but I rub bees wax on the edge and then buff it lightly. Makes the porous edge not suck up water, and it looks nice.

Jim's book, The Complete Bladesmith, has a really good section on scabbard making/leather work. 

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