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Scramasax. Pattern welded blade with ornamented handle WIP

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Hi All!

Haven't been here for some time... I've been learning, and improving skills :)

Here there is a scramasax forged out of 5 bars: 3 x twisted rods (45/68/45 layers) + spine and cutting edge of 80CrV2. The handle is made with bronze spacers, deer antler, pear wood and black leather spacer. The "eye" on the butt is brass riveted and soldered from beneath.

Overall len.: 515mm/20,27"

Blade len.: 323mm/12,71"

Handle len.: 184mm/7,24"

Width: at handle: 33,5mm/1,32", at widst point: 35mm/1,38"

Thickness: 5,5mm/0,22"

Weight: 483g/17oz

Let's save the words, pictures show some stages of work :)

Pattern welded seax 1.JPG

Pattern welded seax 2.JPG

Pattern welded seax 3.JPG

Pattern welded seax 4.JPG

Pattern welded seax 5.JPG

Pattern welded seax 6.JPG

Pattern welded seax 7 Bronze casting.JPG

Pattern welded seax 8 Bronze casting.JPG

Pattern welded seax 9 Bronze casting.JPG

Pattern welded seax 10 Bronze casting.JPG

Pattern welded seax 11 before assembling.JPG

Pattern welded seax 12.JPG

Pattern welded seax 13.JPG

Pattern welded seax 14.JPG

Pattern welded seax 15.JPG

Pattern welded seax 16.JPG

Pattern welded seax 17.JPG

Pattern welded seax 18.JPG

Pattern welded seax 19.JPG

Pattern welded seax 20.JPG

Pattern welded seax 21.JPG

Pattern welded seax 22.JPG

Pattern welded seax 23 Sheath forming.JPG

Pattern welded seax 24 Sheath forming.JPG

Edited by Kris Lipinski
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Excellent work, I really like the bronze spacers and the pattern on the blade. could you talk me through your casting process a bit please, it looks like you have a basic setup from the pictures and it's something I'd like to learn but don't want a massive financial outlay right at the start.

Edited by Byron studley
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Awesome work, ticks all the boxes for me!

is that bronze cast using beeswax? if so that adds mayor cool points, i too would like a description how its done.

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Byron and Pieter

I used natural beeswax (30%) with some candle wax - the kind of softer one. I also used proffesional jewelerry plaster - Kerr cast 2000 (US made) - it is pretty expensive and over here the smallest ammount you can buy is a bag of 22,67kg (50lb). And there is nicely decribed on the package how to mix it with water, how to count the amount of investment to capacity of the flask etc. But, there is NO explaination how to burn the form after the melting wax. And I failed cople of times. Then my wife, who is a ceramist found general principles about burning jewelerry plasters. And it needs to be slowly (let's say 3-4h) heated to 750*C and kept at that temerature approx 2-4h to a flask of diameter of 100mm (4"). So she burned it for me in her kiln. Then the hot form needs to be poured with bronze. Her kiln musn't be opened at high temperatures, so we waited untill it drops to approx 300*C and then I heated id gently in my forge fire just beside the crucible.

The crucible was welded of thick walled tube (4mm).

I used sipmle bronze recipe: 12% Sn + 88% Cu.



The middle twist bar is richer in carbon. It can be seen just after etching:Pttern welded seax 6.JPG

Darker colour means more carbon: cutting edge, spine and middle, as you can see are darker.


Edited by Kris Lipinski
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46 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

MOST impressive!  :o  B)

Yeah, I  second that. Kris turns out some incredible Viking inspired pieces. 

Well done sir!

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Truly a work of art! This is the kind of piece you could stare at all day and still miss some details. 

Inspiring, to say the least. 

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Amazing work - I love the blade, the bronze, the carvings, the...... heck, the whole thing is gorgeous!


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21 hours ago, Kris Lipinski said:

Byron, I'll answer later - I'm a beginner with bronze casting, but I'll try to help. Btw, I used to live for 7 years in Plymouth in south west UK :)

Excellent thanks, I live near Lyme Regis if you know where that is, Plymouth is nice I visit there from time to time

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Thank you very much :) What you are saying guys is really encouraging to make more progress :)

Byron, I hope my explaination helped a bit, but there are some more experienced men here who do bronze casting, there are some videos on YT as well. The only thing that was awkward to find was the "firing curve" or "burning curve" for the plaster.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great piece!  The blade pattern is very nice and the handle components and carving all work together very well.

i do a bit of bronze casting and the burnout schedule can usually be found on the website of the investment plasters maker. Generally the process is melt the wax out and drive out some of the water by heating to about 300 degrees F for 3 hours.  Then you slowly raise the temperature about 200 Degrees F per hour until you’re above 1000 F.  The plaster I use has me take it up to 1350 F and hold it there for 3 hours, but i’ve Seen it done by holding at 1000 F overnight.  Then you let the mold cool down to 900F and pour the bronze.  The main 2 points are 1) heat up slowly to prevent cracking, and 2) get it hot enough long enough to completely vaporize the wax and burn up any ash.  

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16 hours ago, Kris Lipinski said:

Thank you. After converting temperature to Celsius degrees it all can be set up in my wife,s kiln.

Woo Hoo! I see more excellent work coming.

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