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Hi guys! I've had my nose held firmly against the grindstone in the weeks leading up to Blade show, I thought you all would like to see thjs Oakeshotte type XVIII I've been working on over the past week or two. This is the first sword I've made as a part Longship Armoury :D

The blade is 31" long, and 2" wide at the guard. I designed it to be a light weight arming sword with a considerable amount of cutting power, so the blade has a 35% distal taper from the base of the blade, which is 3.7mm (0.145") tapering down to 0.100“ at the tip. This blade presence gives it a very powerful, but very fast feel in the hand. Weight of the entire piece is 1.99lbs. It's much more stiff than you'd think, most of the blades I make that are less than about 3/16" at the base I have to toss, because they end up too floppy. But not so with this one. 

Speaking of the handling, the hilt node is pretty much between the guard and the grip, right on that little copper piece where it should be. Forward pivot point is on the blade node, or center of percussion. The point isn't really reinforced, but the geometry changes to a very sharp and sturdy "awl" shape. Great for ripping cuts with the point or thrusting.

Crossguard was forged from old wrought iron, etched deeply to give it the dark woodgrainy pattern. The pommel I forged from antique steel, and gave it a unique "cosmic dark" finish. The pommel is a modified version of a fishtail pommel, more comfortable than a wheel pommel in my opinion. 

The grip was crafted from African blackwood, with copper accents to add a little color and bling to the hilt while keeping the aesthetic of the dark neutral tones in this piece. 

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Hope you guys like it! If you've got any critique, questions, insults,  or comments, let me know! 

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48 minutes ago, Collin Miller said:

Hope you guys like it! If you've got any critique, questions, insults,  or comments, let me know! 

I like it and besides saying "You're ugly and your Momma dresses you funny" I'd like to enquire about the blade steel ?

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16 minutes ago, Vern Wimmer said:

I like it and besides saying "You're ugly and your Momma dresses you funny" I'd like to enquire about the blade steel ?

My momma stopped dressing me recently, but I do agree, I hard to look at ;) Blade steel is 80crv2, heat treated by myself and tempered in a hot oil bath to approximately 56-58HRC.

11 minutes ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

This is why you have a fiery beard! Nice work Collin!

Thank you! 

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Thanks. That info makes me happy. I just like seeing that particular steel used in different blades

I recently identified a sword type, with help from Alan, probably you, and the Oakeshotte work, that I had seen somewhere years ago. IF I ever make a sword that one design and 80CrV2 were on my mind.

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3 minutes ago, Vern Wimmer said:

Thanks. That info makes me happy. I just like seeing that particular steel used in different blades

I recently identified a sword type, with help from Alan, probably you, and the Oakeshotte work, that I had seen somewhere years ago. IF I ever make a sword that one design and 80CrV2 were on my mind.

Thanks! I'm actually going to be phasing out all of my 80crv2 in favor Crucible L6 for monosteel swords. Harder to work with, but it has performance advantages, and I'm all about performance advantages. 

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Based on its reputation from way back I had thought that real L-6 was a top choice for swords, despite the thoughts about 5160 being "spring steel". I just thought 80CrV2 had passed it by.

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6 minutes ago, Vern Wimmer said:

Based on its reputation from way back I had thought that real L-6 was a top choice for swords, despite the thoughts about 5160 being "spring steel". I just thought 80CrV2 had passed it by.

80crv2 is pretty much better in every way from 5160. Similar in use, but it's like the difference between 1095 and W2. 80crv2 is great for swords and big choppy things :D

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I knew it for knives but swords are still uncharted territory for me.

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Simple, practical, and clean. Beautiful work. Really like that wrought iron guard, but i am curious; why did you not forge the pommel from wrought iron as well? Just wondering. 

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31 minutes ago, Will W. said:

Simple, practical, and clean. Beautiful work. Really like that wrought iron guard, but i am curious; why did you not forge the pommel from wrought iron as well? Just wondering. 

Thanks man! The thing is, I thought I did forge the pommel from wrought iron. I usually test everything I get, but I got a 30lb bar from an experienced blacksmith I have known for years, he said it was wrought and I went to town with it.

Nothing was showing up in the etch though, and after a break test, it became obvious that what I was given was just really old steel. I did my best to make the texture and tone work with guard since I didn't have time to make another pommel before Blade with all the other stuff I'd got to finish, and I'm really happy with how the finish came out so I guess you live and you learn... It's been said that the mark of a good artist isn't how you rarely screw up, but how well you can improvise when you do screw up ;)

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Not a "screw up" merely a " situational adaptation". 

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To be clear, i think it looks very nice, the steel pommel. It really matches the overall look and flow. The finish came out great. 

6 minutes ago, Collin Miller said:

It's been said that the mark of a good artist isn't how you rarely screw up, but how well you can improvise when you do screw up

Or how well you can turn your "mistakes" into "design features."

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Thanks guys! :D

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Honestly I thought the pummel was just a different bar of wrought that was just WAY more refined. All wrought isn't created equal especially when it has been recycled several times by a blacksmith. Well done with making it look amazing even though it wasn't what you thought.

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The proportions and design flow really well, great job!  I have a Type XVIII blade that I forged, but after a failed quench, it has been silently mocking me as it leans on the bench for the past few months.  Your blade has given me the impetus to get that sword back in the fire and finish it. Thanks!

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Has anyone tried a "type XVI" with the fuller and diamond tip section ?

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Thanks so much guys! :D

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