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Cody Killgore

Positioning Multiple Anvils for Use

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Hello All,

So I've been using a hardened 4140 post anvil for most of my work since I "made" it a few years ago. I originally got into bladesmithing after having first started blacksmithing as many of you have I'm sure. I had purchased a new Peddinghaus #9 165lb. anvil for my blacksmithing work but had it sitting out near the coal forge for a good while. I brought it into the shop a couple weeks ago and have been playing around with it... particularly on the horn and with some tools in the hardy hole. I've come to really like using it for a few particular things but still use the post anvil for the bulk of the work. Nonetheless, I need to get it set up properly.

I had it sitting on this stump with my post anvil but haven't secured it down yet. The post anvil is sitting in a routed hole in the stump. Anyways, I've been thinking of ways to set up both of these anvils in such a way that I could use them both. I'm running out of space in my shop and have probably only 1 foot on either side of this stump to work with.

I'm about ready to ditch this stump and start over with something new. I'm trying to decide whether I'll build it out of wood or steel and trying to come up with a way to incorporate both anvils. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has more than one anvil set up next to each other.

Just trying to brainstorm some ideas for the time being. Anyone have some cool setup they they like?

Attaching an image of my current setupAnvils.jpg

 

Edited by Cody Killgore

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I would think they are much more useful apart than together, or at the least seperatable.

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Yeah, you're probably right and I might be able to get them both mounted in this space separate from each other but I'm going to be pushing it a bit on space. There is actually a knee milling machine just off the picture to the right of the stump. Got too much stuff in the shop. Never enough room.

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Make a 3 leged stand, always stable.  My anvil has a shelf out to the side and I use it quite a lot. If you mounted the square anvil on the near side and at the heel of the horn I think that you would find it useful.  I have a 100# anvil that did not have a shelf so I welded one on the side.  The shelf is cut at a 45 degree angle so I also have the benefit of the thin area.

Let me know if I can help you.

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I'd like to have something like that I could use as a striking anvil so I could relegate my Harbor Fright ASO to being a bending horn, like a bick, and a holder for Hardie tools. I'd separate them so they weren't "binding me up".

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You can have a Hardie and pritchel in your striking anvil.

This will be an interesting thread because I am in the process of building an addition onto the shop to have a more permanent set up and I have several anvils to build stands and figure out the best way to have them all useable. The only difference is I will have more room than what your talking about having but it seems like it will be full in no time.

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14 minutes ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

You can have a Hardie and pritchel in your striking anvil.

This will be an interesting thread because I am in the process of building an addition onto the shop to have a more permanent set up and I have several anvils to build stands and figure out the best way to have them all useable. The only difference is I will have more room than what your talking about having but it seems like it will be full in no time.

What I am saying is, that, I'd like to have a more hardened surface for striking than my HFASO and it would be fine with me if it didn't have a Hardie or Pritchel since the HFASO I already have has them.

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19 hours ago, Geoff Keyes said:

There is a pic of my setup in this  thread.  I don't know if that helps or not.

 

g

That actually does help. Gets the gears moving around in the 'ole noggin.

 

16 hours ago, Wayne Coe said:

Make a 3 leged stand, always stable.  My anvil has a shelf out to the side and I use it quite a lot. If you mounted the square anvil on the near side and at the heel of the horn I think that you would find it useful.  I have a 100# anvil that did not have a shelf so I welded one on the side.  The shelf is cut at a 45 degree angle so I also have the benefit of the thin area.

Let me know if I can help you.

That is a good point. I do like 3 legged stands. I hear you on the shelf. Due to the base of the peddinghaus, I can't get the post anvil right up next to it though.

 

I'm starting to form an image in my mind. Thanks for the tips so far guys.

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Could we get a couple more pictures of the set up and we can get a little better picture of what your dealing with for room.

Edited by Jeremy Blohm

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Okay so here's the same thing just backed up a bit so you can get a better idea of space. I just brought the post vise in from outside as well and have been trying to decide where it will go. You can see the milling machine to the right of the anvils. And to the right side of the vise is a lathe. Anvils are a bit far from the forge. Not ideal.

This is the largest amount of floor space in my shop. The other side is workbenches and my heat treat area. Not much walking room back there.

Sorry about the mess...

Shop1.jpg

This is a shot from behind the anvils so you can see the opposite wall. Forges, press, grinders. Grinders are on wheels and get rolled out of the way when I'm using the press.

Shop3.jpg

Here's a shot more straight down on the anvils.

Shop2.jpg

Edited by Cody Killgore

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Stumps are romantic, but dumb. you save and make more space by using steel stands, or atleast better engineered wooden stands like the laminated 2x4 setups.

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If a circle and a square are the same width then the circle has less area, stump takes less space.

A stump could be engineered to "make space" like anything else, im assuming you mean attaching a bracket or something to hold hammers and tongs or whatever. 

Not to mention the cost of wood or steel to make a stand vs. Having the opportunity to carry 150 pounds of curly ash home on a bicycle or whatever you want for transportation. that ones opinion but ive got half a nice log still to make handles with.

It can be difficult to square the ends of a stump, an axe or adze is necessary.  Laminated 2x4s would be easiest but there is still potential for wobbles. 

 

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Not sure if this helps, but I have similar anvils. So here’s my set up

D0A72CC3-5749-4957-A691-85CF2E301161.jpeg

It started out as just 2 common scrap wood stands, each made specially for the type of anvil. Both were too light and by the time I was done forging they would have moved a foot or two! So I decided to attach them together. Works great now, no movement at all.

Mason

Edited by Mason Simonet

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