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Gerhard Gerber

Leaf spring temper

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I recently got a cheap multimeter with a temperature probe that measures up to 1000C.

I used it during my last tempering session as found the little bachelor oven was running a bit hotter than indicated.  I may have over tempered a few blades, but nothing major considering they are large choppers.

I want to try tempering the spine only, but I've seen how brittle leafspring can be after the quench, and I can't help but wonder if the edge won't be brittle?  I want to try this specifically on smaller knives that won't be used hard but where the extra edge holding (how much?) might be worthwhile......?

Secondly.......I just got some rusted bolts that most likely came from the ox wagon that carried my family into the country early 1900's  What type of steel could it be? I know it won't make a knife, but I would love to incorporate it into a blade.

 

Thanks

Gerhard

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Generally, even when drawing the spine back, the whole thing gets tempered first, though a lower temp is often acceptable.  

Those bolts could be wrought iron, but most likely they are a a not so good mild.  At least that is the case for the bolts for the wagons that brought my family out west in the 1890s.  

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Using the bolts is a neat idea.  Even if the they are not wrought iron, you could forge them into handle bits.  I am a sucker for nice blued mild steel furniture on a knife.  The bowie thread by Mr Nowacki that just got pinned in the show and tell section is a great example.

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Thanks Jerrod.

Thinking about it, I guess there are too many variables to get a known minimum temper......experimentation and experience?

15 hours ago, Brian Dougherty said:

 The bowie thread by Mr Nowacki that just got pinned in the show and tell section is a great example.

Can't find it, could you please link to it?

My question should've been "do you think I could forge weld it?".......I guess the answer is yes B)

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