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Looks like a good everyday user to take to the woods or lake/river.  The tang wasn't hardened was it? I noticed you didn't predrill holes for pins.  I did the "the tang shouldn't be too hard after quench if I don't fully submerge it in the oil" thing once.....after ruing two drill bits and trying to draw the temper out of just the tang, I went back to a full anneal and requench....but with the pin holes drilled prequench that time, live and learn (I think this is why I also prefer stick tangs!).  Can't wait to see it all finished.

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Update time. Spent the day working on the hidden  tang handle. I gotta say, hidden tangs feel so much better for me. I love the way they look and feel. 

Well, here are the glam shots complete with sheath. Hope you all enjoy and feedback and critique welcome    Thanks gents. Definitely something to try on the next one 

Update time. It's a public holiday here in Zimbabwe, so I get a day in the workshop. Awesome.  So i know the general consensus about 1x30' belt Sanders isn't great, but i got this for basically f

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Looks good!  Leaf spring generally doesn't show much of a hamon, it's got too many alloying elements that lead to deeper hardening, which in turn means no nice transitional structures, otherwise known as hamon.  Try one in EN9, that ought to do it well.

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10 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

Looks good!  Leaf spring generally doesn't show much of a hamon, it's got too many alloying elements that lead to deeper hardening, which in turn means no nice transitional structures, otherwise known as hamon.  Try one in EN9, that ought to do it well.

This wasn't the leaf spring. Went with k0036 hollow drill rod. 

C %         Si %      Mn %      S %        P %         Cr %        Ni %       Mo %        V %        Al % *

0,90        0,10     0,30        0,030     0,030     0,95       0,25         0,15         0,025        0,020 

Still too much other stuff going on in it?

10 hours ago, MikeDT said:

Looks like a good everyday user to take to the woods or lake/river.  The tang wasn't hardened was it? I noticed you didn't predrill holes for pins.  I did the "the tang shouldn't be too hard after quench if I don't fully submerge it in the oil" thing once.....after ruing two drill bits and trying to draw the temper out of just the tang, I went back to a full anneal and requench....but with the pin holes drilled prequench that time, live and learn (I think this is why I also prefer stick tangs!).  Can't wait to see it all finished.

Yeah, I may have a made a mistake there. I went to drill the holes pre heat treat, and it was just not working. I dont have a drill press yet, only one at work. So I thought I would just push on and use the press at work. It was hard enough anyways to be a problem, but ja, that could potentially take me forever and lots of bits 

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Yeah, way too much other stuff going on in there.  That's even more chromium than leaf spring (assuming 5160), and the other stuff like Moly and nickel tend to not allow those in-between crystal structures to hang around, as they all lead to deep hardening in a slow quench.  You might get a hardening line if you did just an edge quench, no clay.  

On the tang, you might be able to get away with overtempering to soften IF you can keep the blade cool.  I've done it by standing the blade in water up to the bolster area and using a torch to bring the tang up almost but not quite to glowing and holding it that way for a minute or two, then let it cool back to room temperature without taking it out of the water.  That's sort of a subcritical anneal, kind of, but not really.  It does relax 5160 enough to drill, though.  Your stuff is a bit more complex, but it should still soften it enough to drill.  

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13 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

Yeah, way too much other stuff going on in there.  That's even more chromium than leaf spring (assuming 5160), and the other stuff like Moly and nickel tend to not allow those in-between crystal structures to hang around, as they all lead to deep hardening in a slow quench.  You might get a hardening line if you did just an edge quench, no clay.  

On the tang, you might be able to get away with overtempering to soften IF you can keep the blade cool.  I've done it by standing the blade in water up to the bolster area and using a torch to bring the tang up almost but not quite to glowing and holding it that way for a minute or two, then let it cool back to room temperature without taking it out of the water.  That's sort of a subcritical anneal, kind of, but not really.  It does relax 5160 enough to drill, though.  Your stuff is a bit more complex, but it should still soften it enough to drill.  

got it, so waste of time going for a hamon in k0036. 

on the positive side, i did manage to get the holes drilled. after having brand new steel bits, which usually go through all my other stuff like cheese, not work, i tried the whole "sharpen a masonry drill bit" trick. and BOY did it work!! good trick to remember.

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so umm, we may have had a problem while trying to get the handle scales and boltsers done, that may or may not have lead to a serious design change....

20180803_080617[1].jpg

so ja, that happened. anyways, i think it will come out well. i way prefer hidden tangs anyways

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2 minutes ago, Gerhard said:

For the size and purpose that's the right choice, weight is the enemy. :D

 

got a plan there. it wont have a guard as such, more of a bolster, and the handle will still have the same design, shape and size as the original plan, just now its hidden tang

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I'm having trouble visualizing that....will wait and see :)

Don't have scale so not sure about size, but.....

If you position that bolster just right the ricasso could be a 50/50 choil.........?

 

 

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Update time. Spent the day working on the hidden  tang handle.

20180805_103009.jpg20180805_121221.jpg20180805_183837.jpg20180805_183906.jpg

I gotta say, hidden tangs feel so much better for me. I love the way they look and feel. 

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That came out rather nicely Ross.  When you said you were going to skip the guard and just do a bolster, I envisioned something quite different. With that thick a bolster though, you could always grind a finger curve into it and create a pseudo guard.

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5 hours ago, Vern Wimmer said:

I bloody well like it!

Thank you very much. 

1 hour ago, Joshua States said:

That came out rather nicely Ross.  When you said you were going to skip the guard and just do a bolster, I envisioned something quite different. With that thick a bolster though, you could always grind a finger curve into it and create a pseudo guard.

Thank you for the advise. When you say finger curve, like a facet or a full curve out of the bolster handle transition?

I did toy with an idea similar to that, but I wanted to keep the lines of knife nice and slim. The curve of the handle is nice and index's rather well so that your hand is never really in danger of encroaching on the blade itself. 

 

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and here we have the finished knife. please ignore my work desk, these arnt the final glam shots, which will come after the sheath is done. just wanted to show everyone where we ended up at

20180806_101130[1].jpg

20180806_101207[1].jpg20180806_101150[1].jpg

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Leather time. 

1st up, make up a template

20180806_184320.jpg

This one was actually wrong, of course. The next one was correct. 

20180806_210819.jpg

Here's the main body of the sheath along with the belt loop and the front panel. 

20180806_210907.jpg

Home made edge beveled really does the trick. 

20180806_211605.jpg

The welt cut to shape and skived at the tip. It's quite large, but it's to help seat the slender blade nicely in place. During test fit ups it really sat nicely. 

Edited by Ross Vosloo
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On ‎8‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 10:14 PM, Ross Vosloo said:

When you say finger curve, like a facet or a full curve out of the bolster handle transition?

Forgive the crappy photo manipulation, but I meant something like this.

B&T3.jpg

Then, if it were me, I would raise the ricasso and drop the choil.

Just ideas to think about for the next one. 

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I feel you on that Josh, a little more curve in there would seem to enhance

the visual symmetry a bit, as well as the purchase.

Not a put down to your good work Ross, just an observation...................B) 

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9 hours ago, Joshua States said:

Forgive the crappy photo manipulation, but I meant something like this.

B&T3.jpg

Then, if it were me, I would raise the ricasso and drop the choil.

Just ideas to think about for the next one. 

 

2 hours ago, Clifford Brewer said:

I feel you on that Josh, a little more curve in there would seem to enhance

the visual symmetry a bit, as well as the purchase.

Not a put down to your good work Ross, just an observation...................B) 

you managed to put in a picture exactly what i was thinking, but in all honesty, am just too scared at this point to do to this knife :lol: i agree, a little more curve in there would be great, but i am very scared of messing it up as it would come in very close to the tang, which flares out pretty wide at the bolster/handle junction.

 

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6 hours ago, Ross Vosloo said:

 

you managed to put in a picture exactly what i was thinking, but in all honesty, am just too scared at this point to do to this knife :lol: i agree, a little more curve in there would be great, but i am very scared of messing it up as it would come in very close to the tang, which flares out pretty wide at the bolster/handle junction.

 

And that is why I said just thoughts for the next one. There's nothing "wrong" with what you have already done and I know how you feel.

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1 hour ago, Joshua States said:

And that is why I said just thoughts for the next one. There's nothing "wrong" with what you have already done and I know how you feel.

Ditto on that...........

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Well, here are the glam shots complete with sheath. Hope you all enjoy and feedback and critique welcome 

20180808_210557.jpg20180808_210053.jpg20180808_210302.jpg

3 hours ago, Joshua States said:

And that is why I said just thoughts for the next one. There's nothing "wrong" with what you have already done and I know how you feel.

 

2 hours ago, Clifford Brewer said:

Ditto on that...........

Thanks gents. Definitely something to try on the next one 

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Well done Ross

The handle looks a bit square, but considering the intended application that could make the knife very nimble in the hand?

 

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  • 1 month later...

an update.

 

i was never very happy with the sheath for this knife, but i put up with it because its become my edc. well, ive had it with the sheath and have just finished up a new one, using a new technique that is making a big difference to how i go about sheaths. what im talking about is wet forming the leather. now, i used to wet the leather after sewing up to get it to conform to the knife better, with mixed results. what i now do is, after just cutting out the leather from the templates, i completely soak it and tightly conform it to the knife (wrapped in plastic). this method is producing much better fitting and more consistent sheaths than ive ever made before.

also, a point on the knife itself, after using it every day for about a month now. i love it. its a very nimble little knife in hand, and im able to do some very delicate work with it. the handle, despite its blocky appearance, is very comfortable and encourages a good grip. the edge is outstanding, both in sharpness and in edge retention. in fact, ive never owned a knife, self made or bought, that has ever been this sharp and stayed this sharp despite daily use. i also just this morning, after finally finding some PC1 buffing compound after an exhaustive search, managed to polish out this knife to the standard i wanted. and i think it looks the part too! all told, im very very happy with this little guy. 

so here is the completed sheath and the knife.

20180912_073245[1].jpg

heres one of the polish on the knife

IMG-20180912-WA0005[1].jpg
and fnally, for anyone interested, is a close up of the leather art work before stitching was done. its my impression of a very famous (to us any ways) Zimbabwean Elephant Bull known as the Chura bull from Tashinga.

 20180911_070146[1].jpg

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Nice polish!  And yeah, wet-forming is the way to go for a tight fit.  Helpful hint: You can do it with acetone as well, dries fast and leaves the leather almost as hard as if you used water.  Just don't use acetone if you've dyed the leather first!

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