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Zeb Camper

Broken back seax... Tear it apart fellas!

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Well, I got the billet all welded and drawn out into a preform. I ended up twisting both bars right handed though :wacko:

It's gonna be a big one! 

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It's going to be interesting to see the end product.

Doug

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It's somewhere around 3/8" thick by 1 1/4", so, I should hit my 1.5 Pretty easy when I forge the bevel in. I gotta forge the back end narrower in both directions before I begin, and forge that tip a bit more pointier. 

I think I'm gonna forge the step from spine to tang on the backside only, then forge the blade bevel in leaving a bit of a temporary plunge right at the junction of the tang. This should leave a clear distinction at which point I can put that plunge right over the corner of the anvil, get a step on that side going, and over-thin the profile of the tang, and then forge the bevel of the tang in. This should give me good looking shape and even pattern flow I think. 

Sounds easy enough. 

Edited by Zeb Camper

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With the length you have there, why not go Norwegian Langsax on it?  You don't have enough tip-clip to nail the proportions of a brokenback.  Well, my first one was that short, but that was in the pre-Jeroen years.  ;)

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That's kinda what I'm shooting for, but just put it here instead of starting a new topic. 

Do you think I could get the shape of the langsax I drew on the previous page? 

On 8/1/2018 at 9:56 PM, Zeb Camper said:

Ok, so here is a sax that I used 2 langsaxs in order to make one that I liked.

It has a 36cm blade length (14 1/4")

The max width is 4 cm, tapering to 3.5 at it's narrowest towards the tang. 

 

 

 

20180801_214329.jpg

 

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That's still a brokenback, a langsax has a simple upcurved tip like a machete.  But if you can get the drawing out of the blank you have, that would work, provided you manage to keep the thickness at the break.

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Thanks! 

Now I just gotta buy some sanding belts and finish this thing in time for Friday. I'll be toward your neck of the woods this coming weekend in Gatlinburg! Last time I went I had a knife to study, so I'm thinking I'll bring this one this time to keep with tradition. I think I'm ready for a 2×72... If only it was in the budget :lol:

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Oh wow that thing is a monster...:o

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Hey guys! Gonna try to heat treat this this weekend. A few more things to critique if you would like:

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what do you think of the whole thing, and what do you think of the potential carving? If I did it I would enlargen some of the parts to make it easier to carve. Also I would not rush so much with the layout and would employ the use of a woodburner for the scales of these beasts and to sharpen the lines as well as the recesses. This carving style was an artistic interpretation of one of the viking ship carvings at Oslo.

Thanks! 

 

Edited by Zeb Camper
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1 hour ago, Alan Longmire said:

Looks good!  What is your HT setup for that beast?

Well, I don't really have one! I was talking to a fellow forumite last night about it and he seemed to like the idea of a trench forge. 

I figured I would see how normalization goes in the propane forge and go from there. 

Any suggestions? 

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13 minutes ago, Joe Wulvz said:

where did the tang go? :O???

I cut a hole in the paper to slide it under the handle drawing :lol:

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I have done swords in a trench behind the garage for years.  It works, but it's annoying.  ;)

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I do it by heating a huge pile of coal using oil to get a really hot mass with extra air and then scattering it through the trench/forge using a 2 by four on the top as insolation, lots of passing the blade through the coals. Extra heat is better. 

It is annoying and slow, makes me envious of people with 4 foot easy bake ovens.

Edited by Joe Wulvz

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Well, it survived heat treat. Work got canceled so I bought most of the dollar store's canola oil and did it to it. 

Came out Ok with a slight warp on the edge side. I figure I'll temper it for 3 cycles in the home oven tonight and then come back to reheat and beat that warp out. 

Anyway, just wanted to let you all know it's alive! 

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You can always tell the real blacksmiths because they use the word: "survived" when they quench. lmao, much respect.

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20 hours ago, Zeb Camper said:

Well, it survived heat treat. Work got canceled so I bought most of the dollar store's canola oil and did it to it. 

Came out Ok with a slight warp on the edge side. I figure I'll temper it for 3 cycles in the home oven tonight and then come back to reheat and beat that warp out. 

Anyway, just wanted to let you all know it's alive! 

If you can get it in the home oven, then I suggest you try fixing the warp by clamping it to a straight piece of bar or angle.  That works well for me on kitchen knives, and I'm sure you'll be tempering quite a bit higher than that.

Do an initial temper run before clamping it up.

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