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Faye

All Purpose Kitchen Knife

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I received a request for an all purpose kitchen knife and this is the design I came up with. It's a pretty basic design, flat grind, full tang with a brass bolster and some kind of wood for the handle. All advice is appreciated as kitchen desings are not my forte.

IMG_20181006_195909997.jpg

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With the shape you have here  mine average on 5-6". (blade)

I ran  into issues with cutting various things depending on edge thickness vs edge angle. For my go to have found with this size if not wanting food to stick to side of blade a convex blade bevel was my go to. ( you know you slice a cucumber and the slice is clinging on like a monkey, not able to get another cut in) I am finding myself trying out, change grind, trying out changing blade taper, grind..and so on. 

Best of luck! 

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I am no expert here, but I cook. I have found that a blade of somewhat triangular shape with the widest part at heel works best because it will give you knuckle clearance vs the cutting board. I also found that ricassos and plunges are awkward when the time comes to sharpen on the water stone. So you could basically add 3/4" width at heel, put a little less belly at tip, remove the ricasso and plunge and you're good to go :lol:

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Joel, is this what you're talking about?

IMG_20181007_130223530.jpg

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More or less. Keep the spine as is but the edge is parallel when it should be aiming towards the tip.

Edited by Joël Mercier

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Here's what I mean. Sorry it isn't as accurate as I wanted but I'm doing this on my phone. 

This way, when the edge is parallel to the cutting board, there's way more clearance for your knuckles.

1960608196.png

If it was me, I'd forge the heel an extra 0.5" or more.

Edited by Joël Mercier

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Okay, so more drastic than I thought, but it would still be a slightly curved edge right? Kind of like this?

IMG_20181007_204901241.jpg

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Yes. May I have the blade dimensions to give me an idea of the proportions?

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Oh, yeah, the blade and handle are both 4 and a quarter inches giving it an overall length of 8 and a half inches while the heel is 1and a quarter inches.

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Make that blade 5 inches long while keeping the same heel width will bring the knife to the "petty" or utility category. A sort of jack of all trades blade. 

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Once you are satisfied by the blade and handle design, cut the template in cardboard and try your motions on the counter to see if it feels right.

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8 hours ago, Faye said:

Okay, so more drastic than I thought, but it would still be a slightly curved edge right? Kind of like this?

IMG_20181007_204901241.jpg

Also, I would get rid of that plunge line. It will get in the way when cutting. 

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Okie dokie, thank you so much for all the help.

And I did move the bolster back off the blade so it won't get in the way, thank you Zeb for pointing that out.

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Are ya done yet !!!!.......................:D

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For now, I think. I've been known to change my tang designs mid forging process both intentionally and unintentionally, and I've yet to make a handle exactly like the one I initially designed, so who knows. The blade though, that will come out how I planned, maybe not the first time, but I'll get it eventually.

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I like the direction you took it after Joel’s input.

Our most used general purpose knives in the kitchen are Japanese style petties and honesuki blade patterns, especially those that deviate from the thicker spine for splitting chicken and are designed more for slicing (maybe they have another name but the profile is the same).

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Faye,

Your first 2 designs are what are generally called utility knives.  If you extend the blade on your last design to 6"-8", drop the tip about 1/4", curve the cutting edge down until it goes almost flat about 1/3 of the way back to the heel, have a slight belly for rock cutting back to about 2" from the heel, and then flatten out to the heel, you will have a chef's knife.   Keeping the same profile, add about 1/2" or whatever is necessary to the height from cutting edge to spine, along the whole length of the edge, so you have min. 1 1/2" clearance under the handle for your fingers.  You will probably want to use a French Curve to get fair, smooth curves on the spine and cutting edge.  Just my thoughts.

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On 2/19/2019 at 1:18 PM, Tim Barney said:

Faye,

Your first 2 designs are what are generally called utility knives.  If you extend the blade on your last design to 6"-8", drop the tip about 1/4", curve the cutting edge down until it goes almost flat about 1/3 of the way back to the heel, have a slight belly for rock cutting back to about 2" from the heel, and then flatten out to the heel, you will have a chef's knife.   Keeping the same profile, add about 1/2" or whatever is necessary to the height from cutting edge to spine, along the whole length of the edge, so you have min. 1 1/2" clearance under the handle for your fingers.  You will probably want to use a French Curve to get fair, smooth curves on the spine and cutting edge.  Just my thoughts.

Thank you Tim, the knife that originally started this thread has already been forged out, but I appreciate the information.

Seeing as this is my own thread I think it will be okay if I hijack it, right?

My grandparents have asked for a kitchen knife that they can display on their mantle and I was thinking it should be a chef's knife. So in the mindset of a display worthy knife I came up with this design...15518198377739205864242183829078.jpg

The total length is 12 1/2", 5"for the hanlde and 7 1/2" for the blade. The very base of the blade is 2" wide. If you have any critiques for me, they would be appreciated. You can probably tell from the eraser marks in the picture that this has gone through multiple redesigns but this is the one I like best and wanted to run by someone who knows what they're looking at.

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Posted (edited)

Your handle is very narrow. I'd make it at least 3/4" wide. I understand this is for display but I believe it should still be comfortable to hold and use. As for the blade profile you did great. The edge is almost flat near the heel and has a progressive belly, well done!

Edited by Joël Mercier

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Thank you for pointing that out Joel, I should put that on a wall, make my handles bigger, everyone tells me that. Me and my small hands need to remember that we make knives for other people too. :)

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I agree with Joel.  A handle that thin is going to be a fit to control.  I made one with a small handle like that but it's close to unusable.  As far as the handle material goes you might try a synthetic.  I think burlap Micarta is great looking.

Doug

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The wider the blade, the more width you need in the handle to control it. I think that handle design would work fine with the edge taken back to the first of the erased lines in your sketch. I actually made something similar about 10 years ago...

 

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On 3/5/2019 at 2:18 PM, Faye said:

The total length is 12 1/2", 5"for the hanlde and 7 1/2" for the blade. The very base of the blade is 2" wide. If you have any critiques for me, they would be appreciated.

Make that exact knife. Do not falter. Do not veer from the path. Set a goal and achieve that goal. If it gets out of whack. set it aside for later and start again.

On 10/9/2018 at 4:54 PM, Faye said:

I've been known to change my tang designs mid forging process both intentionally and unintentionally, and I've yet to make a handle exactly like the one I initially designed,

This is both a blessing and a curse. It's nice to be able to change tack and finish something, but you never train yourself to focus your intent. Taken at it's very basic level, forging is imposing your will upon the material. You need to make the steel do what you intend, be what you intend, and become what you intend. It isn't so much about developing the steel, it's about developing yourself.

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8 hours ago, Joshua States said:

You need to make the steel do what you intend, be what you intend, and become what you intend. It isn't so much about developing the steel, it's about developing yourself.

I"ve struggled to make this exact point in a few different threads.  This was an excellent way to say it!

  • Thanks 1

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