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Ben Hoover

Anvil weight question.

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It's a 100 lb Vulcan made in 1943.  It's a shame some idiot welded that bar to the face, it will have lost its hardness at that point.  The face at the welds, that is, not the whole thing.  It will be serviceable once you grind the bar off.  It's cast iron with a thin steel face (thus the edge chipping).

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its hard to imagine why someone would weld that bar to the anvil. Doug Jn. 3:16

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Thanks guys. It was free, and I think for me it will be serviceable. I appreciate the info. Gonna begin cleanup tonight.

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Well, you can't argue with the price point at least.  It should still give you some  useful work area after you get rid of the bar.

Doug

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8 hours ago, Doug Lester said:

Well, you can't argue with the price point at least.  It should still give you some  useful work area after you get rid of the bar.

Doug

As I don't have a grinder, and don't want to go near the face with one anyway, I'll be hand filing that bar off, but as you yourself say, there is plenty of work surface around it to use, so after I clean the surface up, this weekend (barring bad weather) it is going to get put to work.  I can work around the bar until I get it off.  

   Pretty excited to get to work on it instead of on the  old RR Track or little 15 pound harbor freight anvil.

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I have 4 anvils, one is the 100 pound Vulcan in this photo, similar to yours.    Others up to 196 pounds.

I am often amazed at the abuse the poor anvils sometimes receive in the past.

Especially the chipping they receive from mis-directed hammer blows.  I plan  on dressing the edges on mine.

That bar welded to your anvil completely blows my mind.   Why would someone do this?????

 

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36 minutes ago, John Ricks said:

That bar welded to your anvil completely blows my mind.   Why would someone do this?????

It made it easier for the coyote to load it into the weather balloon in such a way that  he could pull a rope and have it fall.  (Missing the roadrunner, and landing square on the coyote of course)

 

Regarding filing the bar of: I'd spend $20 on a HF angle grinder.  That is a lot of weld on there.  You aren't going to hurt the anvil unless you start grinding into the face.  You can clean up the last 1/16" with a file.

 

Edited by Brian Dougherty
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32 minutes ago, Dan Hertzson said:

Recommend considering some cold chisel work

Thanks! I hadn't even thought of that.

39 minutes ago, Gerald Boggs said:

Video please.

It is coming. Will video the clean up.

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Free is good!  And it will be worlds better than railroad track or the Harbor Freight ASO.

Vulcans chip because the steel face is so thin compared to Fisher, the other steel-faced cast iron anvil.  Fishers have reinforced edges an inch deep with flanges that lock them into the body, and the face itself is 1/2" thick. Vulcan's faces are only around  1/4" to 3/8" thick, and the edges are not reinforced.  They do have a little spike thingy that locks the face to the body, which is why you'll always have a little spot of face left in the center even if all the edges are gone.  I've seen that on a 50-lb Vulcan, it had been reduced to a single 1" square of steel in a sea of broken cast iron.

I'd use a thin cutting disk on an angle grinder and carefully slit into the weld bead until the bar pops off, then switch to a flap wheel to level out the weld bead.  I'd be afraid a cold chisel would take more of the face with it if the weld bead had good penetration.  Or if, heaven forbid, they were stupid enough to have used hardfacing rod...

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49 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

Free is good!  And it will be worlds better than railroad track or the Harbor Freight ASO.

Vulcans chip because the steel face is so thin compared to Fisher, the other steel-faced cast iron anvil.  Fishers have reinforced edges an inch deep with flanges that lock them into the body, and the face itself is 1/2" thick. Vulcan's faces are only around  1/4" to 3/8" thick, and the edges are not reinforced.  They do have a little spike thingy that locks the face to the body, which is why you'll always have a little spot of face left in the center even if all the edges are gone.  I've seen that on a 50-lb Vulcan, it had been reduced to a single 1" square of steel in a sea of broken cast iron.

I'd use a thin cutting disk on an angle grinder and carefully slit into the weld bead until the bar pops off, then switch to a flap wheel to level out the weld bead.  I'd be afraid a cold chisel would take more of the face with it if the weld bead had good penetration.  Or if, heaven forbid, they were stupid enough to have used hardfacing rod...

Thanks Alan. You're always a wealth of info.  I'll try getting a grinder, but I have enough face to work on if delayed getting one.

   I am excited to get to use it.  

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If you try using it the way it is, do your knuckles a huge favor, and at least cut the overhanging bits of the bar of, and round the remaining ends very generously! 

Your going to get your knuckles between the hammer handle and that bar sooner than later :)

Edited by Brian Dougherty

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2 hours ago, Brian Dougherty said:

If you try using it the way it is, do your knuckles a huge favor, and at least cut the overhanging bits of the bar of, and round the remaining ends very generously! 

Your going to get your knuckles between the hammer handle and that bar sooner than later :)

I am hoping to have that metal turd off the anvil before I beat on the anvil. But that bar has to go.

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On 10/11/2018 at 1:28 PM, Alan Longmire said:

Free is good!  And it will be worlds better than railroad track or the Harbor Freight ASO.

Vulcans chip because the steel face is so thin compared to Fisher, the other steel-faced cast iron anvil.  Fishers have reinforced edges an inch deep with flanges that lock them into the body, and the face itself is 1/2" thick. Vulcan's faces are only around  1/4" to 3/8" thick, and the edges are not reinforced.  They do have a little spike thingy that locks the face to the body, which is why you'll always have a little spot of face left in the center even if all the edges are gone.  I've seen that on a 50-lb Vulcan, it had been reduced to a single 1" square of steel in a sea of broken cast iron.

I'd use a thin cutting disk on an angle grinder and carefully slit into the weld bead until the bar pops off, then switch to a flap wheel to level out the weld bead.  I'd be afraid a cold chisel would take more of the face with it if the weld bead had good penetration.  Or if, heaven forbid, they were stupid enough to have used hardfacing rod...

Wound up resorting to a hacksaw. Am currently hand filing to get it to the finish. Whoever welded this was very good at their job. 

   Here is what it currently looks like.  Spending sweat equity but I'll have an anvil when done!

   And yes, I'm videoing it.

 

20181014_122853.jpg

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