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Kris Lipinski

Pattern welded sword - some WIP pictures

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Hi.

Recently I've started welding billets for a pattern welded sword. This is something that I wanted to do for a long time. Luckily my cousin who takes part in battle reenacting wants to fight with PW sword. I took advantage and decided to do it even more cool comparing to the agreed price - to practice, to improve my skills, to take the challange and to make myself an "internal exam".

The blade will be welded of 8 bars. 4 twisted bars (29 layers 1045x51CrV4 - spring) for the fuller, 2 straight laminate bars (mild steel x 1,2%C steel) + 51CrV4 (spring) on edges.

I'm at the beginning of the job :)

Pattern welded sword.JPG

Edited by Kris Lipinski

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Ambitious, but you can do it!  B)

I have done my best work for the same reasons.  If you are not stretching your boundaries you are just sitting still.  

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Thank you Allan.

I have forged plenty of pw knives, seaxes + plenty of mono - swords and sabres, so I hope I'll manage to forge a pw sword as well :)

I'll keep updating the thread :)

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I'll be following along.  Thanks in advance for taking the time to document the build.

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I did some next steps.

Four bars of 29 layers for the fuller. I used a drilled block of steel which was heated and prevented the bar from cooling down too quickly whilse twisting. Picture taken when it's cold - just to catch the idea.

Pattern welded sword 1.JPG

Pattern welded sword 2.JPG

Pattern welded sword 3.JPG

And all 8 bars. Actually I realized there may be not much enough of material, so I decided to put some wedges to be welded - it's gonna be a tang side. Another thing to be solved is welding the billet - as it would be very wide, and as I'm working on solid fuel (coke) and I don't have a hydraulic press, I decided to weld it in to halves. Then weld them together into a blade.

The bars are approx. 400mm (15,75"), so they will get stretched twice during forging. Don't know if it is good idea, but I hope it will work when I stretch it at welding temperature.

Pattern welded sword 4.JPG

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Next step is done.

Two halves are welded, and obviously they stretched a bit - to approx. 500mm (19,7"). There is also one bad thing, and what occurs to me is a wise sentence I've read somewhere "Experience is something we learn just after we needed it" :lol: As I tried to straighten the bar when cold and it cracked on twisted part.

After few minutes of bad emotions I decided to take advantage and do an attempt to weld a piece with teeth - apparently after weldeing and stretching into a blade tip it should look weavy (I hope). To show what I mean I've put some paper model on the billets. The final shape of the piece to be welded may change - it's just the idea.

During the week it will be sorted out :)

Pattern welded sword 5.JPG

Pattern welded sword 6.JPG

Pattern welded sword 7.JPG

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Ingenious way to fix it!  I suspect the crack happened during the twisting and just decided to open when you straightened it.  I do like your heated blocks for twisting.  

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Ok. The sword is almost forged :) I fitted a "toothed" piece od spring stel (same as cutting edges) and welded it. Seems to be not bad - as may cousin who plays in the theatre said about small mistakes: "the viewer will think it's supposed to be like that" :rolleyes::P

Pattern welded sword 8.JPG

Pattern welded sword 9.JPG

 

And below the sword with a company of other blades I'm currently working on :)

Pattern welded sword 10.JPG

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Every day a bit forward to... the finish :) It lasts a bit as I'm working on some more blades (visible in the background on one picture).

This is the shape given just by forging. I learned I need to prepare some more material for stock removal, as I was struggling to stretch the blade both in lenght and width to achieve proper dimentions. The lenght that will be from below the guard is765mm (30,12"), width is 50mm (1,97"). Weight (before HT) is 870g (1,92lb).

Pattern welded sword 11.JPG

Pattern welded sword 12.JPG

I'm grinding using an angle grinder and finishing with pieces of grinding belts and sand papers with help of shaped pieces of wood.

Pattern welded sword 13.JPG

Pattern welded sword 14.JPG

Pattern welded sword 15.JPG

As You can see there are some flaws - the result of too small ammount of material. I think it's got it's charm, mayby will be looking more historical, but I learned the lesson to start a PW sword with some more mass for stock removal.

Soon all the blades will be shipped to mr Maciej Leszczynski for heat treatment and when I get them back I'll polish and etch the balde.

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Very inspirational, can't wait to see it finished!

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Posted (edited)

Couple of months ago I finished the sword, the photographs were safely stored on the computer and now the time to finish the thread came :)

The sword has plenty of flaws and is far from perfect, but it is suitable for fighting (it is blunt for reenacting). The blade is durable and fully functional. I have learned a lot during forging it - first thing: use more material to do more stock removal to leave less flaws.

As always curious cat does a quality check. I hope this time it passed ;)

Pattern welded sword 20.JPGPattern welded sword 16.JPG

And here You can see all the rest of pictures showing the finished sword. My cousin decided for Petersen type L as this makes the grip more flexible in wrist. The crossguard and pommel (actually filed from one piece) are blackened with linseed oil.

Pattern welded sword 28.JPGPattern welded sword 27.JPGPattern welded sword 26.JPGPattern welded sword 25.JPGPattern welded sword 24.JPGPattern welded sword 23.JPGPattern welded sword 22.JPGPattern welded sword 21.JPGPattern welded sword 19.JPGPattern welded sword 18.JPGPattern welded sword 17.JPGPattern welded sword 16.JPG

Edited by Kris Lipinski
some pictures were doubled
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Nice!  The twists are really good, and the toothy bit at the tip is different, for sure.

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Kris Lipinski said:

The crossguard and pommel (actually filed from one piece) are blackened with linseed oil.

Can you expand on the process for this?  I don't believe that I've ever heard of using linseed oil to blacken metal.  It appears to give a very appealing finish.

 

Very nice sword btw.  I'm sure your cousin will be very happy with it.

Edited by Alex Middleton

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Alex. Just cover the object with very thin film of linseed oil (with small brush then with a tissue or cloth) - the layer needs to be really thin. Then heat (coke forge or gas or even electric oven) to approx 200-300*C (400 - 570F). The oil will get burned on the surface. Then put the detail to cool down and repeat this operation at least twice.

That's it :)

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Thanks Kris.  That's simple enough that even I should be able to do it without screwing it up. :D

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