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Conner Michaux

Help me finish this. Carving/lil bushcrafter WIP (edited)

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Could I get a link to a bench grinder stone that would be best for the job? Or can I just buy any?

 

Also should I start making the handle now for wait till the knife is sharp?

Edited by Conner Michaux

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I was thinking of doing a burn through, seems to be the fastest way. but I have seen people do it on FIF but it doesn't always work, And the judges freak out when ever someone does it. Is that just to make it dramatic or is it actually a really bad idea?

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Just about any stone will do.  60 grit is good for stock removal, wet or dry.  Whatever you can find for cheap.  On the handle, that depends on how you want to do it.  There is usually some shaping involved with the handle on the knife.  And doing that with the blade fully sharp is not a great idea.  It can (and will) be kind of sharp, which is why you wrap it in tape when you're working on the handle.  The final edge is after the handle is finished.

And do you mean burning in the tang?  That works and is historically accurate, but it's not easy to do well.  On small blades like this one in particular there's a big risk of ruining the temper.  If you want to try it, have a hole in the wood that the tang almost fits into before you try burning it in.  A too-small hole wastes time and increases risk.

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Okay thanks, Yep I meant burning the tang in Guess I wont do that. 

Edited by Conner Michaux

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This will be the handle material its a pretty cool piece of Stabalized Koa. For some reason the pics make it look really ugly.. IMG_0790.jpegIMG_0791.jpegIMG_0789.jpeg

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That wheel would work, but seems a bit pricy.  Look at these two from Harbor Freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-general-purpose-bench-grinding-wheel-62475.html and https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-general-purpose-bench-grinding-wheel-62474.html.  You can usually find a coupon for free shipping from them as well.

Even better would be to find a shop that is tossing a broken one.  You're basically using it like a lapping plate rather than a wheel, so the condition of the wheel face doesn't matter a bit.  

These are just a cheaper substitute for the EDM stones that were all the rage ten years ago.  

If I'd known you were using stabilized wood I'd have said absolutely do not burn it in.  All that plastic is terrible to breathe, and might even be poisonous depending on what they used.  On the plus side, that block is big enough for at least four handles!  

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How should I cut it up? I have a neighbor thats willing to let me use his band saw.

 

the wood is three inches wide 1 1/2 thick and 5 long all measurements are just under the exact.

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Bandsaw!  Just watch your fingers.  Cut out a block just big enough for your handle.  The rest can be split into scales for full-tangs, blocks for stick tangs, or whatever you want to do.  Koa is rare, so don't waste it.

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Okay thanks! A really nice guy gave it to me at blade show in Portland a few months back, I have been noticing more and more that the bladesmithing cumunity is so willing to help and to pass down the trade to a younger generation.:)

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Ive been trying to get the tang to fit into the wood but no matter how I do it the dang knife wont fit all the way in, Can i cut the tang shorter? 

And when im done how can I cover up the ugly whole in the top... Im thinking a thin copper spacer but I don't know if there are better ways.IMG_0794.jpegShould I start over? I forgot that i had a dremel Until a made this ugly wholeIMG_0793.jpegOh Im also drilling a a few whole into it to help with epoxy bonding. The wholes dont go all the way through though.IMG_0792.jpeg

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Many methods presented in this thread: 

but the best way is to avoid the big hole to start with.  Since that is no longer an option, some sort of bolster or cap is required.  It can be a guard or just a spacer, that's up to you.  

 

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okay I am going to drill one big hole into the wood, Then I will fill it with wood putty, then put the tang in and take it out so theres a mold for it, then do the epoxy then put the tang in for the final glue up. What kind of wood putty should I use, or does it matter?

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Oh this post should probably be moved, Im not sure where, but its more of a WIP. 

What can I put on the handle to bring out the grain and make it shiny?, when its done.

I want to buy a polishing/buffing wheel for my angle grinder to make the handle glossy and shiny

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This is the stuff that I use, works great.   https://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-KwikWood-Epoxy-Putty-Stick-1-oz-case-of-6-8257H-6/305285015

Just cut off a chunk, knead it up, and stuff it into the hole.  Use your tang to pack it in and work out the air bubbles.  Coat your tang with a thin layer of petroleum jelly before inserting it into the epoxy, it'll come out smoother without disturbing the putty as badly.  I'm not sure how long your tang is right now, but probably only needs to be 2.5-3" long for a knife that size. 

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Since the wood is stabilized, there's no way to stain or add a finish.  With that stuff all you do is sand as fine as you can go, but the good news is you can wet-sand since it's plastic.  Take it up to 1100 or 2000 and a quick zap on the buffing wheel will make it glossy as can be.

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The tang is just over  three inches, can I cut a half inch off the end?

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