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Conner Michaux

Friction Folder Q's

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8 hours ago, Conner Michaux said:

Where can you get 16 gauge copper? 

https://www.riogrande.com/category/metals

http://www.ottofrei.com/jewelry-metals/shapes-sheets-stock

Also good source material for anyone interested in Mokume……...

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YES! Thats perfect, thanks! 

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Since I’m going to use O-1 for my KITH blade, I should probably know how to Heat treat it, also since I’m doing full stock removal the metal won’t be heated. So can I just heat it to non magnetic and quench??

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That can work, but ideally watch for decalescense.  It needs to be about 100 degrees hotter than nonmagnetic to harden properly, and since it's going to be in speroidized annealed condition it would prefer a short soak at heat to fully distribute the carbides.  There is a whole thread on it down in the metallurgy subforum.  That said, heating to 1550 (nonmagnetic is 1425) and quenching in warm oil will be functional.

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Okay thanks, since I have a pipe in the forge i can let it soak.

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Read that thread.

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Here is the very first one I did about 12-15 years ago. It is a really primitive one piece wood handle.  I cut a slot for the blade and you can see how you cut through completely on the pivot end so the curled tang has a place to sit.  One simple pin for the pivot and one small pin to stop the tang from pivoting further. It doesn't have to be over engineered to work well, even a daisy can be pretty.

friction folder.jpg

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Well I have everything i need to start so I will be posting with KITH WIP soon.

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I forged out the blade for the Higonakami folder this evening. Lots of sanding to be done.

8656A221-24F2-4AB7-A203-C10F3DA4AB2E.jpeg

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55F216DE-36F7-4EF9-95C1-38092BDC89B4.jpeg

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Thanks :)

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I believe you will want to grind/ file your ricasso so the two faces are parallel. I don't recall but I think the base of the ricasso should be more perpendicular to the spine of the blade. Some of the more experienced members should correct me if I am wrong. 

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Nick Rossi at NESM had us forge the profile of the blade then use stock removal for the bevels. 

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So I had an idea, that would maybe speed up the process of finishing this.

Could I use a hand held wood sander to get rid of all the wiggles and shallow hammer marks in the blade?

It would take some time but I think it might work.

Good or bad idea?

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A grinder with a flapper wheel might work a bit better although that might take off more material than you would want.  You'd have to be careful about using the grinder.

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Yeah thats why I don't want to use the angle grinder it could cause a lot of problems, the wiggles and hammer marks are not that bad, I just want a faster way to sand it.

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Drawfiling is the fastest way to flatten it out.  But yes, you can use almost any kind of sanding device.  Just don't expect much.

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