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Conner Michaux

Friction Folder Q's

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Ive got a few questions about them,

First up, What do you use to hold to blade in place? Is it just a pin, or do you need some fancy pivot thing?

Are Liners under the scales necessary?? Or can I just use the scales and pins?

Also where did the Friction folder originate, it was the first ever folding knife right?

Thanks

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Posted (edited)

I'm not sure of the history but from what I gathered from it is just the scales with a spacer and a few peened pins. 

Edited by Jeremy Blohm

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The spacer needs to be exactly the same thickness as the blade at the pivot point. 

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As for history, the Romans were churning them out in 200 BC, and they probably go back as far as metallurgy itself, although I haven't seen a bronze age one.  But then I haven't seen nearly as much as I want.

The blade can be held by just the pivot pin, or there can be washers outside for reinforcement, and inside for a bearing surface.  The handle can be one piece, two pieces, or as many as it takes.  Liners are usually not needed.  Basically, as long as the blade can open and close, anything goes!

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Okay thanks! Im going to make one from wood first as a  prototype then once KITH starts I will make the real one. 

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So im thinking for the scales I want to do Aluminum, Its light and tuff. Anyone have experience with it? What kind should I get, and where can I get it?

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List of stuff for the folder, Precision ground O-1, Aluminum for scales, 5 pins, 2 washers, I feel like im missing something, What am I forgetting?

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Spacer?  Only if needed, depending on design.  Washers might be overkill, too.

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22 hours ago, Jeremy Blohm said:

The spacer needs to be exactly the same thickness as the blade at the pivot point. 

How can I do that? A lot of very carful sanding? 

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That's why precision ground seel and stock removal is best for folders then you can get a piece of material the exact thickness of the blade ore even use some of the same steel as the blade so its guaranteed the same thickness.

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Posted (edited)

Yeah I was just thinking I could use a small piece of the O-1 as the spacer, So it will be the same thickness. 

 

Im going to try to keep the folder under 3/4 inch, so I will probably need some thin scales.

Edited by Conner Michaux

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IMG_1538 (800x533).jpg

IMG_1539 (800x533).jpg

IMG_1541 (800x533).jpgI m

I made this one a couple of weeks ago.  NS pin, copper washers and a copper taco.  Pretty simple

G

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Posted (edited)

I really like those!

How thin is the copper you used? 

I want to try one of those.

Oh and what did you use to texture the copper?

Edited by Conner Michaux

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17 minutes ago, Geoff Keyes said:

made this one a couple of weeks ago.  NS pin, copper washers and a copper taco.  Pretty simple

This is what I had in mind. How does it work? I mean how stiff is the blade on the pivot? Does it require some force to open it up?

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What do you use to bend the copper?

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3 hours ago, Conner Michaux said:

What do you use to bend the copper?

You can use a vise and a hammer, anvil and hammer, or many ways. You could probably do it with 2 pairs of vise grips if you had to 

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I made them a little stiff, because I figure they will loosen up over time.  The higo took a two hand break when I delivered it.  The copper is 16 gauge and I bent it around a piece of 1/8th stock.  I did most of the texture before I bent it.  It's just random ball peen texture.  I bent it over the jaws of a vice to get it started, and then drove the piece of 1/8th through and then hammered to shape with the piece if steel as a mandrill.  Pretty simple, you could do carving and stuff if that's the sort of thing you do.  Or you could use slabs and spacers to get the slot.

 

Geoff

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New England School of Metalwork has a Blacksmiths Folder (friction folder) class each year.  I took it and really enjoyed it. If I remember, friction from the sides of the handle hold the wedge shaped blade closed. The attached drawing exaggerates this concept. I also attached a photo of all of the folders members of the class made. Mine is the big one in the lower left corner. Here is a link to the 2019 class. 

http://newenglandschoolofmetalwork.com/node/57

 

226E1052-4C8A-4C5D-9A9C-4D5AE617D1E4.jpeg

CD494450-66F2-4DA2-984F-0DD282062D2D.png

563E3060-B5DF-4B05-AE38-004D279CBF98.jpeg

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Thanks!

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I have a 16 gauge copper pipe, i can un roll it and make one of those. Not a very big one.

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Where can you get 16 gauge copper? 

I measured wrong and the copper I have is too thin.

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I did some research and 16 gauge is 1/16" thick. K type(for underground use) plumbing copper tube walls are also 1/16" thick. If I can't find copper sheets I might go that route.

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I bought copper plumbing from Lowe's for the seax's sheath fittings. It is around 3/64" I would say. I'm not real familiar with guages, but I think 18 guage would be close. 

Not sure if they have the other size for sale. I usually buy copper bar off the internet. Nobody else I know of sells it. 

If you like bronze, tractor supply sells 1/8" thick x 2" long sleeve bearings. 3/4" inside diameter, 1" OD. Probably be around 3 1/2" if you split one and opened it up. You could stretch that out if you forged it to 1/16" thick. These are $6 last i bought em'.

Edited by Zeb Camper
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15 minutes ago, Zeb Camper said:

I bought copper plumbing from Lowe's for the seax's sheath fittings. It is around 3/64" I would say. I'm not real familiar with guages, but I think 18 guage would be close. 

Not sure if they have the other size for sale. I usually buy copper bar off the internet. Nobody else I know of sells it. 

If you like bronze, tractor supply sells 1/8" thick x 2" long sleeve bearings. 3/4" inside diameter, 1" OD. Probably be around 3 1/2" if you split one and opened it up. You could stretch that out if you forged it to 1/16" thick. These are $6 last i bought em'.

There are three different ratings for copper plumbing. From thickest to thinnest K(0.061"), L(0.045"), M(0.031").

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