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Roger Moore

My first knife. Something I made over Christmas

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All .... it’s nearly bed time here in the uk so I’ll respond properly in the morning. 

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3 hours ago, Joël Mercier said:

I'll try to put this simply and I hope I get this right. At high temperature, the carbon atoms in the steel will prefer the oxygen atoms in the air over the iron atoms of the steel so it will ''move out''. The longer the steel is left at high temperature, the thicker the layer of decarburized steel will be. And the higher the temperature, the faster it will decarb.

I like to think of it in the exact opposite perspective (though yours isn't wrong).  Given enough energy (heat), oxygen can then rip the carbon away from the iron.  

The key here is the oxygen.  If there is no oxygen, there is no decarb.  Likewise, if the oxygen simply can't get to the carbon (steel), it can't react, which is the premise of using anti-scale.  And if there is a lot of oxygen, there is a lot of potential reaction.  

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1 hour ago, Alan Longmire said:

so you can get away with using it on deep-hardening steels

That was my point. Why is V2 considered deep hardening when 1084 is considered in between shallow and deep(medium?).

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Firstly, you were my favourite James Bond :P

:lol:

Secondly, I've spent the last two months of 2018 learning the ways of the milling machine, the lathe and the welder in the afternoon, so I'm somewhat blown away by what you've done.....amazing work!

One of you WIP photos reminded me of a blade done by the Grimsmo brothers, are you familiar with their work?

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The stainless toilet roll holder looks perfect for the job.
I used a stainless toilet brush holder for mine. Great size and proportions. I also live alone, so no complaints here ;)

I reckon the handle looks great.
Clip = refers to the dished shape at the point of the knife (I think). I am also new and learning terminology. 

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14 hours ago, Joël Mercier said:

That was my point. Why is V2 considered deep hardening when 1084 is considered in between shallow and deep(medium?).

I consider 1084 to be deep-hardening.  Maybe not so much as 80CrV2, but enough that you can't get a good hamon on it.  Manganese is the usual culprit in straight carbon steels, but anything else you add (chromium and vanadium, for example) will also encourage deeper hardening while pushing the nose of the TTT curve off to the right.  That's why 1095 with it's 0.3% max Mn has less than one second to get past the nose, and 80CrV2 has nearly ten seconds. 1084 has about five.  So, while you can quench 80CrV2 in a superfast oil, you don't need to and it's not conferring any advantages.   

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Brian - thank you for the kind comments - oh the Bond comments, whish a had a $ for every time I've heard one :)

  • Haha 1

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7 hours ago, Gerhard said:

Firstly, you were my favourite James Bond :P

:lol:

Secondly, I've spent the last two months of 2018 learning the ways of the milling machine, the lathe and the welder in the afternoon, so I'm somewhat blown away by what you've done.....amazing work!

One of you WIP photos reminded me of a blade done by the Grimsmo brothers, are you familiar with their work?

Bond Bond and more Bond :)

Thank you Gerhard

Grimsmo brothers ... not yet, I will Google

Grimsmo brothers  ... Blimey ... not cheap are they!

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Tim  ....Thank you ..... great minds think alike :)

I hope I haven't forgotten anyone

Edited by Roger Moore

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A brief update. I've ordered 25 litres of Rape seed / canola oil and a re-sealable 20 litre steel pail with lid so my workshop doesn't smell like a fish and chip shop.

Ill also order some more 80CrV2 to experiment with.

Do any of you use coatings at all?

How about this?

" ATP-641 Anti-Scale Coating

ATP-641 Anti-Scale Coating

Manufactured in the USA this coating is suitable for both oil quenching and air quenching steels in order to minimise the formation of scale and pitting in heat treatment. It has a temperature range of 1000F (537C) to 2400F (1315C). It can either be painted, sprayed or dipped onto the part, allowing the coating to dry before commencing heat treatment. It will upon cooling crumble off and parts can be rinsed clean under water. It is important to ensure that parts are clean of oil and greases before applying the coating. 

"

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 Anyone hear from the UK? if so where do you recommend for buying wood such as bog oak? Iron wood?

 

 

Thank you to everyone for all you comments and help so far.

 

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4 minutes ago, Roger Moore said:

ATP-641 Anti-Scale Coating

That is what most of us use on carbon steels. It works great! 

 

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Cheers Joël

 

I'll get some ordered .... at this rate I'll have to flog knife 1 to be able to afford everything i need to make knife 2!

 

 

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16 hours ago, Roger Moore said:

Bond Bond and more Bond :)

Grimsmo brothers ... not yet, I will Google

Grimsmo brothers  ... Blimey ... not cheap are they!

Sorry, couldn't resist :lol:

They are at the very high end.......but with good reason.

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Roger, sorry to take so long getting back to  you.  I had a hard time remembering what the heading of the post was.  The clip of the blade that I was referring to is the concave cut into the end of the blade from the spine to the point.  Properly done it helps provide another short cutting edge to increase hemorrhage in stabbing.

Doug

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