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Rather plain by the current forum standards, but I am quite happy with it.

IMG_20190122_223240298.jpg1095 Blade with a cherry burl handle. It is nice and thin (.110 tapering to .100) and very sharp. Its also my first knife in probably 2 years and my first go with leather dye.

The sheath isnt perfect (obviously) but it holds the knife very securely and has a wooden insert to protect it from cutting, probably could have stiched it a little neater and  shape the liner better so the 'tail' was more centered.IMG_20190122_223053470_HDR.jpg

For the good (and more successful) I put a dimple in the spine to make it easier to whittle with. Its fairly narrow blade also makes it easy to get into tight curves, and the handle is just the right size for a few comfortable grips. And, I got the heat treating right so it is pretty flexible and appears to hold an edge well based on my carving experiments with it. -

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Edited by Gregory Lirot
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That cherry burl certainly lifts the little blade. I havent done a stretched and turned sheath yet but dont imagine it as easy as it sounds

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11 hours ago, Garry Keown said:

That cherry burl certainly lifts the little blade. I havent done a stretched and turned sheath yet but dont imagine it as easy as it sounds

Thank you. I do like the style of a very plain blade and simple shapes with the figured woods, but it is not the 'in' thing. 

I find the 'Scandinavian' sheath like this to be a lot easier then a normal sheath. Lining up the welts for me has been difficult, but this does take three hands (or a stitching vise). When they are still wet and they are half stitched, I pull them tight with a C clamp or vise grips (with leather glued on to the metal portions) and that helps you keep them tight as you work your way up. 

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