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Conner Michaux

Little Edc WIP

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Hopefully ill be able to finish this one, almost all the knives ive started have come to dead ends. 

So hopefully I can finish this one!

This is a stock removal knife, Made from O-1  

I havent measured it yet, ill do that soon. 

Spent a few hours filing the bevel in, Oh forgot to mention its a single bevel as you can see, the O-1 is 5/32 thick and the thickness at the edge right now is a little bit thick than a sixteenth, (i haven't measured yet thats just a guess) 

My question right now is, Does the edge look to thin right now or do i have some more room to file?

Thanks.

{EDIT} Yes I was right the edge right now is just under a sixteenth, and by just under i mean literally a hair thinner than that..

and the blade length is 5 1/8th 

plunge line to the tip is exactly 2 inches long.

 IMG_1910.jpegIMG_1909.jpegIMG_1906.jpeg

IMG_1899.jpegOn my house we have chains that the draining water trickles down, and when it freezes it looks pretty cool.

 

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Im thinking  Micarta for the handle, but i'm not sure yet. 

What do you think would look good for the handle??

Edited by Conner Michaux

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You should be safe taking the edge down to half that thickness.

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22 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

You should be safe taking the edge down to half that thickness.

Thanks, gonna go do that now. 

Edited by Conner Michaux

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I have some 1/4 brass pins that im going to use, Should I drill the hole exactly 1/4 inch, or should I use a drill bit a little smaller?

Edited by Conner Michaux

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I use 3/16 I drill out the hole with the drill press the 1/4 inch bit should be fine if your using 1/4 inch rod.  scuff it up with sand paper before you epoxy.  But that should work okay.  It should match up fine with your brass rod I would test it on a piece of mild steel first though just to make sure.

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OKay thanks :) 

On too my next question..lol

 Can O-1 produce a hamon?? 

I reeeeeeally like hamons and I want to try it out, I have some satanite i can use.

 

Edited by Conner Michaux

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My experience is that a 1/4" hole will be just a smidge too small for 1/4" pin stock.  You could get a metric or a letter drill bit that is just a little larger than 0.250" or ream out the hole just a little with a burr on a rotary tool.  Same with other sizes of holes and pins of the same nominal size.

Doug

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5 minutes ago, Conner Michaux said:

Can O-1 produce a hamon

Nope. You need a shallow hardening steel such as 1075, 1095, W1/W2....

It's possible to create a diff. hardening line with deeper hardening steels like 1084, 52100 and 80CrV2 but you won't get anywhere near the activity of a shallow hardening steel. 

O1 is just too deep hardening it will through harden even with clay on it.

Edited by Joël Mercier

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I would think that O-1 is a little too hardenable to make a good hamon though you could see what you could produce with edge hardening.  Simpler steels like 1075, W1, or 1095 would make better hamons especially if they have a lower manganese content.

Doug

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Okay, So ive read a bit on the forum about O-1 hardening, and i understand it will harden the most when its able to soak in the heat, but I have a coal forge and every minute the forge is on its getting hotter and hotter.

Since this is stock removal and this knife has never touched heat, do i still need to normalize it??

im not sure how to heat treat O-1 so i'm just going to normalize twice . (if needed) and quench.

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Yes, do two or three normalizations, then quench.  That will take the place of soaking at heat.

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Alright, thanks.

 

Is O-1 an oil hardening steel?

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Yes it's an oil hardening steel. That what the O stands for and W1/W2 is a water quenching steel hence the W but we still quench in oil because it takes a water quench to harden thicker sections but with a thin knife oil should be fine.

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Okay it’s been quenched. How long should I temper it for?? 

Im thinking. 2 cycles of 400 degrees for 1 hour. Good? 

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Hopefully you have tempered already, but yes, 400 is good.

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Yeah I tempered it once last night and I’m about to do it again.

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Finished tempering.

29A97714-89A6-446E-9F37-0B8548DA9AE8.jpeg

AB1D0C15-CDD0-43A5-9C6A-C347F0150188.jpeg

Edited by Conner Michaux

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are you planning on forging out that tang a big more make it a bit smaller that is a lot of material for a full tang.

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Nope, it’s already hardened. :)  Also the pictures exaggerate the size. 

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I’m not quite sure how to precede from here. Do I just sand until it’s sharp??? 

 

Is there a file that you can use on hardened steel???

That would be way faster than sanding

Edited by Conner Michaux

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You'll have to use sand paper or stone. I think you were using a grinding stone before? Use really aggressive paper or the stone first to get to about the right thickness, then go through finer grits. 

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Alright thanks. Low grit sand paper is treacherous to my fingers. 

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54 minutes ago, Conner Michaux said:

Alright thanks. Low grit sand paper is treacherous to my fingers. 

Use a scrap of leather as a pad between the fingers and the paper.  It does a good job of keeping your fingerprints intact.

You'll probably want to use  a hard backer block rather than leather for much of your sanding so that the bevel stays nice and flat.  However, you can still hold that backer block with leather :)

 

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Sanding blocks are going to be your best friend on this one Conner.  Get a block of wood and wrap or tape the sand paper to the block of wood and do it that way.

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