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Conner Michaux

Little Edc WIP

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At this point I'd suggest undoing the heat treat.  Hardened O-1 is just not gonna get much thinner without power tools.  Even normalized, it is a pain with hand tools.  The good thing about it is it rarely warps, especially in the size and shape you have it in.  It's up to you, but I'd heat it to a low red and let it cool slowly, then take the bevels down until it's ready to sharpen, drill any holes you want, and take it to a nearly finished polish, then harden and temper again.  

I am preparing to teach a "knifemaking mostly unplugged" class at my local guild and have been experimenting with the easier-to-get steels.  O-1 is off the list for this very reason, it's just a pain to work with hand tools after forging.

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Posted (edited)

Dang, I didn't want to do that...  I'll do it this evening I guess, should I take the bevels down till its sharp? Or right before it has an edge?

Lesson learned!

 

Also should a take the bevels down with the file, Or sand paper? Im thinking file.. 

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Posted (edited)

Okay, this is good! I just softened it, because i'm to impatient to wait for dark, and I im going to file in a choil before I take the bevels down a bit more.

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Perfect timing! Get the work done during the day, redo the heat treat tonight in the dark.

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Now im not quite satisfied with te shape of the tang so.... Since its soft I might as well remodel the tang, and ad a lanyard hole, just because it looks good, I don't really need it because my hands are tinyIMG_2466.jpegIMG_2465.jpeg

IMG_2464.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

And I want to do some sort of Patina, so im thinking either a copper-wash or a stone-wash.

Oh and I made the birds eye maple I was going to use for the handle into a mallet so I will use a nice pice of black walnut instead.

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Take it down to just ready to sharpen.  I've watched Jesus Hernandez quench a razor-sharp W2 blade with no trouble, but he had the geometry for it.  I think you do too.  Quench the blade only once it's ready to hit the stones for an edge and I think it'll work fine.

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Okay! I should still normalize it right?

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That never hurts!

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Didn't get as soft as i wanted it too... once i got rid of all the scale the file was skating across...So I tried it again..and the half of it is totally covered in blisters, and im not sure if there just scratches but i think the whole thing is covered in little stress cracks... as it was cooling it was just slightly rattling which i thought  was really weird, then I saw scale popping off of it..the scales was jumping 6 inches of the blade.. then I held it . up to my ear and it was making a rattling noise.   

Im not really sure what im going to do at this point.

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That was the steel air hardening on you.  I don't usually recommend this, but leave it in the forge to cool off, at least until it shows no more color.

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Okay, back to the forge..Third times the charm! 

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Alright, third attempt is done, I’ll file test it tomorrow because I don’t want to go outside to the shop because is so freaking cold.

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Posted (edited)

Okay we have some good news! The knife is soft all the way through, I took the bevel down further and I would say its ready to be sharpened, so once I remodel the tang and drill the pin holes it will be ready to heat treat. 

 

Choil is done, I think it looks really good!

I'm not sure what happened to the flat line, it looks a little weird.

IMG_2470.jpegIMG_2472.jpeg

 

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Posted (edited)

Here is the new tang, The piece of wood underneath it is what ill be using for the scales.IMG_2473.jpeg

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Can I use a regular drill bit now that its soft?

 

Once I cut out the scales can I lay everything out on top of each other and drill one hole through it all? 

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Drill the holes in the tang first, then use those holes as guides for drilling the scales.  Look at Joshua's pinned thread in show and tell, it's a very good explanation of how to do it.

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Posted (edited)

I have the pin hole and the scales cut out, the pin fits in there very tightly, but it’s a little crooked, is that a huge problem?  I ruined four drill bits before It the went through. Guess it wasn’t as soft as I thought it was l.. well lesson learned, always drill before heat treat! 

33C987D4-A022-4C8B-8A9A-11CB2F66C63E.jpeg

1AF3BEEC-38A8-48E0-AECF-303C313E8DC9.jpeg

Edited by Conner Michaux

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And the hole might be a little too close to the plunge line.... 

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Posted (edited)

Sanded it to a ruff 800 grit with some crappy 3m paper, that stuff wears out fast!  

S sandpaper

S shaped

O object 

:lol:

Edited by Conner Michaux

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It kinda looks like a fancier box cutter not that there’s anything wrong with that

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Yeah it’s kind of a weird shape, I just quenched it and it’s tempering 2x at 400 degrees for two hours. 

 

Lets hope it’s hard because I forgot to file check it..:P I think I ended up normalizing it 4-5 times.. probably overkill but better safe than sorry.

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Posted (edited)

Aaaand it warped....   the edge ever so slightly goes of the the right, What should I do? Three pins and a vice? The warp is only in the edge, but at all in the tang.

I haven’t done the second temper yet.

image.jpg

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Clamp it to a flat bar with pennies to slightly bend the blade in the opposite direction. Then put it in the oven for 30minutes and check straightness. If it's still warped, put it back longer. 

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Posted (edited)

Thats a great idea, Ill try that. The warp is only in the last half in of the tip. I might need to get different clamps though, The ones I have now are galvanized or have some sort of paint on them. And all of them have some sort of plastic on them, I don't know for sure, but 400 degrees seems like it will melt the plastic and burn of the zinc fumes.

Edited by Conner Michaux

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