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Glue starved and handle scales and liners


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I may be over thinking this, but I was reading about how a Maker should inlet or dimple the centers of the handle scales on full tang knives to create room for epoxy. This way it is not a glue starved between the tang and scale.

But what about when using liners? Do you inlet/dimple scales, affix liner, then re-dimple/inlet again after liner has cured to scale?

what is the process?

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I’ll typically scuff all of the mateing surfaces in opposing directions with a 60 grit belt to give the epoxy traction. 

Not saying it’s right or optimal but it’s what I do.

Sent via phone in my pocket with the same fingers I use to sip whiskey.


Overkill is underrated.

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Me too. That's what I do.


But I've read Stacy on BF saying he cuts out the inside of his scales and Nick Wheeler has a few tutorials where he drills shallow dimples into the scales to give room for the glue. Got me thinking- how does that work with liners? 

Liners to scale is just glued (and starved), but then after drill shallow through both, glue to tang... and problem solved?


I don't know. Probably over thinking, but wanted to throw the question out there.

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I just read about this when researching other things (using Loctite 330 structural  adhesive) and it seems the consensus with liners is to superglue them to the scales and then swiss cheese the tang and liner/scale unit to make epoxy rivets. For epoxy, the Loctite stuff doesn't like gaps.  And some epoxies don't like some liner materials.  You might try using your epoxy to stick a bit of liner material to both steel and wood, then see how easy or not it is to peel off.  If it peels right off, Corby bolts might be something to think about instead of pins.

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Here's what I did on my last full tang. I got the idea from Marshall Hall. I did similar on the scales and just swiss cheesed the liners like Alan said. 

On top of hollowing the in the tang, the knife was also distal and proximal tapered. It ended up much lighter than it looked. 



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I will go over the tang and scale with a carbide burr in the dremel to create a little more that what a 60 grit sand will offer in terms of epoxy space. Have had to remove a couple of handles and noticed a few areas of starvation. 

Von Gruff


The ability to do comes with doing.



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On bigger handles I'll countersink the holes on the underside of the scale, pin holes are countersunk by default.

Some handles I'll drill little holes (4mm) in the tang and then through into the scales for 1-2mm to form a glue bridge through the tang

Always file notches in the pins to make space for epoxy.

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