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AndrewB

Maybe a Hunter? I dunno you guys tell me ~WIP~

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Posted (edited)

So after a week or so of not getting on the forge this morning I finally got out there and was able to fire it up for a couple hours.  I tried out the Smithin Magician and the dyes I had made, they worked wonderfully.  How ever as it was pointed out to me that using the mild steel would not last long time.  I am now finding out why they wont last for long because of using mild steel.  But hey they worked well for what I wanted.  Not only that I also tried the technique of forging the tang first as well.  I really liked doing that.  I just started with a bit longer piece of material so I could hold it with my hands and forge the tang.  I let that cool down cut that extra piece off and welded on a rebar handle and went to work.  Its still got a lot of stuff yet to be done to it but its mainly forged.  I do plan on cutting the tang down a bit shorter as well so it wont be as long.  So far I'm liking where the shape and where this blade is going.  I'm also liking the 1084 a heck of a lot better than the Aldo 1075/1080

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Edited by AndrewB

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Looks knife like! If this is a hidden tang you could have used a lot less material for the tang, and you will need to either forge it down further or grind a lot off...

What happened to the mild steel dies?

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Posted (edited)

I’m going to be grinding a lot off not sure if I’m going for anhidden tang as of yet might use scales instead on this one.  I going to also be cutting some of that tang off.  I wanted to have more material than I needed for it just in case rather safe than sorry and not have enough.  Nothing yet, but over time they will go bad from the hammer blows to the top dye.

Edited by AndrewB

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, AndrewB said:

 Nothing yet, but over time they will go bad from the hammer blows to the top dye.

Hi Andy.  looking good there.  I'm not sure how much I'd worry about that.  Here's a pic of my version I made about 9 years ago (my first welding project, so don't judge too harshly, please) .  My dies are made of 5160 leaf spring stock and they will get beat up where you hit it with the hammer.  When they start to mushroom too badly, I just re-grind off the edges to prevent chips from flying around.   20190309_185318.jpg

I'd be more worried about how the shape of the working end touching the hot steel holds up.

Keep up the good work!

Edited by billyO

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Posted (edited)

Yea I hadn’t thought about the inside edge of the dyes lol opps.  Completely skipped my mind.  That’s okay though at least it being mild steel it’s fairly cheap tha5 I can make another set or until the time comes that I want to spend the money on getting 1045 or 1095 or even 01 or 02 but the dimensions of the dyes it would be fairly expensive my dyes are 3/4 by 2 inches.  So they are a decent sized dye.   Kind of why I went with the A36.  I gotta cut the tang shorter yet and drill the holes in it.  Hopefully this blade turns out decent.

Edited by AndrewB

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18 hours ago, AndrewB said:

not sure if I’m going for anhidden tang as of yet might use scales instead on this one

What you forged is a hidden tang. You wouldn't use your guillotine tool for a full tang as you don't need/want the set down for that.

Also, it appears you forged bevels up to the set down leaving no ricasso area. Just some things to think about.

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Didn't realize I had forged it as a hidden tang lol, I was just going for the tang to be good enough I was planning on using the scales again to see if I could get a close fit using my dremel when get ready to do the handles.  Later this afternoon I plan to start on the grinding process of it.  I have plenty of pin material and plenty of scales and of course blocks along with epoxy lol I made sure I had a stock pile of stuff to use instead of waiting on it.  Yes I do have a broach so I could use a block if I want to.

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The other reason I wanted to try the guilotene tool out was to see if it would help me out with doing handles a bit better by having that little recessed space at the top edge of the blade.  I wasn't fully planning on doing a ricasso not too sure exactly how to do those as of yet.

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Right, but those 2 set down areas are typically for a guard to sit against for a hidden tang. The ricasso is the easiest part to forge if you're starting from flat bar stock because it is simply a section of barstock that you don't touch with the hammer.

A hidden tang is a blade where the tang is "hidden" (you can't see it). It's still a hidden tang if you take 2 scales and bore out a slot for the tang and epoxy them together around the tang. With a full tang, you want the tang to be the actual shape of your handle (as it will be fully visible around it). And you definitely don't want that set down at the top of the blade.

You are headed in the right direction and it is getting knife-shaped but you might want to look at some forging tutorials to get a better idea of the basic areas of a knife. Also you may want to just go look at some pictures of knives that are similar to what you're trying to make then make a quick sketch of your own and figure out how to forge it from there. You will get better quicker if you're trying to make something based on a drawing vs just going out to the forge with no plan and hammering about.

Also keep a close eye on the corners of those set downs. You don't want cracks to form. Using dies with a sharp corner, it's easy to create cold shuts.

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23 minutes ago, Cody Killgore said:

Right, but those 2 set down areas are typically for a guard to sit against for a hidden tang. The ricasso is the easiest part to forge if you're starting from flat bar stock because it is simply a section of barstock that you don't touch with the hammer.

A hidden tang is a blade where the tang is "hidden" (you can't see it). It's still a hidden tang if you take 2 scales and bore out a slot for the tang and epoxy them together around the tang. With a full tang, you want the tang to be the actual shape of your handle (as it will be fully visible around it). And you definitely don't want that set down at the top of the blade.

You are headed in the right direction and it is getting knife-shaped but you might want to look at some forging tutorials to get a better idea of the basic areas of a knife. Also you may want to just go look at some pictures of knives that are similar to what you're trying to make then make a quick sketch of your own and figure out how to forge it from there. You will get better quicker if you're trying to make something based on a drawing vs just going out to the forge with no plan and hammering about.

Also keep a close eye on the corners of those set downs. You don't want cracks to form. Using dies with a sharp corner, it's easy to create cold shuts.

Nice I'll have to give that a try on the next one.  I have a ton of material and about a day and a half worth of fuel left for the forge lol.  I wanted to play with my 2x72 and I wanted to try out the smithin magician see how well it worked.  

 

Did some preliminary grinding on the knife this afternoon with the 2x72, that belts still got some wobble to it but it's not horrible at least.  But the belt stayed in place on the iddler wheels just that danged wobble.  But compared to running this thing on the 2x48 I would have been there for 3 days just grinding.  In the end only small grinding today but I did grind off quite a bit using the 2x72 MAN that thing is FUN.  I can't wait to get my 36 grit belts.  Hope those work better than the 50 grit I was using.  I also got the pvc pipe up in place for all my belts to set on as well.

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The forging on the tip of that knife looks really good Andy, it looks like you were able to keep that tip nice and true to the parent stock size.  Your tang has a little bit of that bulging - something to just work on in the future.  Just keep in mind to work that tang equally when your stepping it down to avoid that. I may be seeing one tiny little flaw in the very tip of your blade.  It looks like you might have one very small cold shut in the tip.  A little grinding or reshaping it looks like it will work out. 

ricasso no ricasso, its a knife.  Personally, I do not like the look of a ricasso because my interest in blades comes from a time when there was no such thing. 

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Posted (edited)

Yea I gotta grind the tang flush to the blade still yet.  I've got a lot of clean up left to do on it.  As was pointed out I forgot about a Ricasso I'm not even quite sure on how to fully do those.  Possibly I'll do one on the next knife if I can figure it out.  Still waiting on my 36 grit belts to get here.  Those would be nice to have so I can get through this metal faster.  I'm thinking I'm going to use the scales for the handle on it.  I can't wait to try out the 2x72 for wood sanding.

Edited by AndrewB

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And some more grinding work done today... Man it paid off big time buyin that 2x72.  It's a lot of fun and I'm actually enjoying the grinding portion rather than dreading it.  I've still got quite a bit more to grind down.  But I'm kind of stunned at how much of a polish even just a 50 grit belt will put on steel using the 2x72.  If I did this on my 2x48 it wouldn't be this shiny.

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Welp after looking at this blade and doing some grinding on it, I think I may have to start over on a fresh piece of steel.  I do think that this one is not even straight its got a nice little bend in it.  So I think tomorrow I'm going to be breaking the forge out and starting over so frustrating.

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So with the present blade in this thread scrapped I started fresh on a new one this morning.  I am much more pleased with the way this one turned out.  I did normalize it.  I would still maybe call it a hunter just not sure yet.  I even tried out a Ricasso I did my best with it.  So it's by no means perfect.  But you can tell it's there in the blade.  I even used FAR less material for the tang than I normally would and forged that flat to meet the surface of the blade.  I did make sure to straighten this blade out as well.  Lets just hope grinding goes well and I don't screw it up.  I'd actually like to have a DECENT looking finished product.  So hope this turns out.  I'm just glad the weathers going to hold out for the next week.

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Your forging looks good!

Based on what I saw on the last one, it looks like your platen is still sitting behind the belt with some space between the two.  You will not be able to get a crisp line or flat surfaces until the belt is touching the platen with the grinder turned off.

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Posted (edited)

I made the fix to that problem and re adjusted the platen on the girnder.  Now it's dang near touching the belt.

Edited by AndrewB

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It can't just be dang near, it has to be touching with no slack at all.  Otherwise it'll just round over everything.

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13 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

It can't just be dang near, it has to be touching with no slack at all.  Otherwise it'll just round over everything.

Okay, that shouldn't be an issue I will adjust it again to touch the belt before I start grinding.  I didn't realize it caused the rounding effect.  Learned something new there lol.  Plus the bonus is my 36 grit belts will be here today.  So Im hoping those chew threw metal better than the 50 grits lol.  They should be here any time now.

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I actually adjust mine to be a little proud of the rollers to guarantee full contact with the belt.  And with 36 grit you will be wearing a bunch of steel wool on your head, face, and shirt.  Goggles or a full face shield are a must!

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2 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

I actually adjust mine to be a little proud of the rollers to guarantee full contact with the belt.  And with 36 grit you will be wearing a bunch of steel wool on your head, face, and shirt.  Goggles or a full face shield are a must!

Lol I've got a full face shield and respirator as well.  I got a decent respirator.  I just want to grind through the crap of the scale lol.  I mean don't get me wrong the 50 grit belts removed a ton of material but it was very slow paced.  I just hope I did semi decent at least on that Ricasso.  I'm still learning to use my Guillotine tool lol.  Even with the mild steel dyes which are taking quite a beating work quite well.  But I also really do like using my 2x72 SO SO SO much better than my 2x48 I may just use it though now for the disc sander lol.

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Posted (edited)

You'll save a lot on abrasives if you soak your blades overnight in vinegar to remove forge scale. Or better yet, go to a pool supply and get PH Minus (sodium bisulfate) and soak for a few hours. 

Also for the ricasso you don't want it to step down at the top of the blade. It's best to just do the over the far edge of the anvil and hammer on the top with half face blows. And that's really only to clean it up on the side facing the bevel. Like I said before, the ricasso is mostly just a section of the steel that you leave alone and don't do anything to if you are starting from flat bar. 

Edited by Cody Killgore

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I’ve got a bunch of the ph stuff just not really sure what I can place it in to mix safely I’d lie to be able to leave it inside overnight.  But I’m just glad I managed to forge out a straight blade.

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Posted (edited)

Okay the knife is in for a dip in the PH reducer/water solution, hopefully I got the mixture right.  But as soon as I put the knife in the solution scale started falling off so maybe just maybe I'm on the right track.  I'm assuming an over night soak on this one right?  I'm hoping this works good thing I've got a 5 gallon jug of this stuff if it does work better than distilled vinegar lol.  I can only hope for the best other wise its a TON more of grinding to do.  By the way THIS STUFF SMELLS LIKE ROTTEN EGGS.  So I'm assuming I did something right.

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Edited by AndrewB

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Well an hour has lapsed since I've placed the blade into the solution.  THIS works WAY WAY better than vinegar only an hour has gone by and it has eaten away a lot of the scale already.  I am impressed and I'm going to stick with using this method thanks to everybody who suggested it.

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