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AndrewB

~W I P~ First Stock Removal Knife Project

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Posted (edited)

  I'm planning on doing something pretty basic for the knife shape.  I also may take the tang a big longer but the blade length for what I want is right at 6 inches.  Which as where the tang lies I have exactly 4 1/2 inches of room for the tang.  I'm still in design phase at the moment I don't want to start grinding just yet.  Blue Dykum needs to get here and it will be here monday.  I mean as it is I could get the tip ground at this point but I wouldn't mind having a little more insight.  I may wind up as well flipping this bar of steel over and taking the tang end closer to the end of the metal.  I haven't quite got that figured yet but the shape of the blade is where i want it at least for now.  If I keep the tang design what I'll wind up doing is lengthening it considerably.

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Edited by AndrewB

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I’ve made quite a bit of progress on stock removal.  Man I love those 36 grit belts I definately have to buy more of them lol.  Anyhow I did change up the design just a touch and made the tang a bit longer.  It is still going to be a 6 inch blade though.  How ever I’m not quite sure how I’m going to grind out those pesky corners on it.  I’m also planning on leaving this blade fairly thick but I will thin it down some.

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5 hours ago, AndrewB said:

Blue Dykum needs to get here and it will be here monday

Use a big sharpie. 

 

4 hours ago, AndrewB said:

 How ever I’m not quite sure how I’m going to grind out those pesky corners on it

Use the corner of the belt on the corner of the platen. If you get what I mean. If its 2 tight for that to work use a file.

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Okay I'll give that a try at some point tomorrow.  The little curved point before it goes to the blade should I just leave that alone and keep it as part of the tang kind of like a feature of the blade?  Or should I grind that down all the way to the straight edge of the blade.  Not really sure on that one either.  The one at the end of the tang will be ground flush to the outline.  I might be doing a couple of knives this way.

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10 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

The little curved point before it goes to the blade should I just leave that alone and keep it

That all depends on what you like in a knife. Look at pics of blades on goggle and see what you like in a knife and try to incorporate it in your design

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Well having that curve at the back end of the blade would make for trickier handle work

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I’ve done some more work on the blade and tang.  I was able to get those pesky corners taken care of as well.  Blue dynamite just needs to hurry up and get here same with my file guide.  They should be here tomorrow.  It’s going to take quite a bit of grinding to thin out this blade a bit more that I can see oh boy.

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Okay I'm starting to realize that I may have bit off more than I can chew.  I am not sure yet but it seems like it will take me for ever to get the blade down to the thickness that I want.  Is there any suggestions on how I could make this go a bit faster with out ruining it entirely?  36 grit belts are great but just not chewing off enough metal for me for some reason.

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Posted (edited)

More pressure. You should be pushing hard into the belt.

Edit: trying to reduce thickness across the whole thing would be a pain. Better to forge it to thickness or buy steel that is the thickness you want. 

Edited by Cody Killgore

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4 minutes ago, Cody Killgore said:

More pressure. You should be pushing hard into the belt.

Edit: trying to reduce thickness across the whole thing would be a pain. Better to forge it to thickness or buy steel that is the thickness you want. 

I do press pretty hard into the belt, it also seems that when I almost force it into the belt the steel also gets extremely hot extremely fast at points to where I can't hold it even with gloves on lol so I have to stop and let the steel cool down.  Even yes avoiding  dunking it in water because I don't want to ruin the steel by doing that.  Grinding the points went quite quickly its just grinding the blade thinner that is taking its sweet time as it seems.  I'm almost half way tempted to use my angle grinder on it lol.  Just to get it to the thickness I want.  But I know if I do that I run the risk of having higher spots and lower spots and an uneven finish.

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Grinding the point and other areas... You're grinding on much less area contacting the belt so all the force is concentrated there which makes it much easier.

Personally, I wouldn't try to grind a whole blade thinner on a belt grinder without something like a surface grinder attachment. I'd forge it thinner or use some other means. 

It's going to generate heat but if it's generating too much, it's likely that your ceramic belt has glazed over. This tends to happen if not applying enough speed/pressure. The ceramic belts really need a lot of speed and pressure to cut properly. Also could just be worn out. 

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Posted (edited)

I am not using the Ceramic belts I don't think.  I think they are just the regular belts.  The cheaper ones from true grit.  I'm almost wondering if there are better belts that I should be using.  I did still want this blade to be a decent thickness I'd like to be able to actually baton this one through a block of wood.  So I don't want it too thick and I don't want it too thin lol.

Edited by AndrewB

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1 hour ago, AndrewB said:

Even yes avoiding  dunking it in water because I don't want to ruin the steel

Why would you ruin  the steel like this?

That's what you want to do. Especially if its heat treated already. If its a belt that doesn't work good wet like a trizac belt just dry it with a rag and keep grinding. If it is heat treated you want to dunk it in water after every pass to avoid ruining the temper in the edge. And if your trying to thin down the stock before heat treat just use a magnet to hold it instead of burning your hands. 

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No the steel is not yet heat treated.  Main reason why I haven't been doing any water dipping.  I haven't done any forging or heat treating yet.  This is only at the point of where I'm grinding to shape.  I think you must have miss understood what I was trying to get at.  The metal gets too hot at some points so I have to set it aside and let it cool off after certain amounts of time on the belt sander.

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I get what you mean. You can cool it off in water. You wont screw the steel up. 

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For some reason I was always under the impression that if it was getting to hot even when grinding and un heat treated I would have ruined the steel by dunking it in water lol.  I'm SUCH A NOOB.  Lol Nooby mistakes.

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Depending on your grinder. You might want to look into the shredder set from Combat Abrasives. I just took my first Ceramic 36g belt for a spin and HOLY cow does that thing profile a blade.  I profiled 3 blades in half the time a normal belt would have profiled one and the belt is still cutting like its brand new.   I wont lie I am a bit scared to try grinding my bevels with one because of how fast they remove material. 

and another option to reduce the thickness of your steel if you are not wanting to forge this one ( as you said, its a stock removal project ) would be to draw file it. With a good file you could thin the blade out in reasonable time that way. 

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Posted (edited)

Shredder set???  I'm curious is to what that would be.  I'm interested.  Because I would like to actually do a few stock removal knives to get more experience and work with my belt grinder more.  I don't want to spend 150 dollars on belts though.  I didnt order the kit but I did order 4 belts from them of the 36 grit ceramic.  Those should be here in a couple days so I think I might hold off working on this project until those belts get here.  They weren't cheap but I'm hoping they're good belts.

Edited by AndrewB

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I believe the ones you ordered are the same ones that come in the Shredder set, its 36/60/80/120g.  If they are red then chances are good you ordered the same ones I have. 

When I got my grizzly, I ordered belts from Grizzly, and I was " less than impressed " with the performance of them. So I bit the bullet and got the shredder kit from Combat Abrasives.  I have been sitting on it for a while ( I have been in full time dad mode to my 11 month old son due to injuries my girlfriend received in a car accident ) so I finally busted them out, and I am way more then impressed on the performance getting stuff profiled out, As I said before with how fast they remove material I am actually scared to try and bevel a blade with them. 

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I'm going to try making the bevels with the belts lol.  If I'm successful welp I'll be grinding bevels lol.  I may just have to order from them from now on,  I do like true grits customer service and prices.  How ever these guys had pretty good customer service since I made the order over the phone.  I spent 45 bucks on 4 36 grit belts which included shipping in the price.  So that wasn't bad at all.  I think I spend roughly about the same maybe less with True Grit.  But I think the next set of belts I order will be from these guys.  A little more money but depending on how I like these belts.  So this is basically the test batch.

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Zircon belts are pretty good on soft steel. It would be a cheaper alternative for pre HT grinding. But nothing compares to ceramics on hardened steel.

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12 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

I spent 45 bucks on 4 36 grit belts

That price sounds like ceramic belts. 

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Also, even though I have a nice 2x72, I still finish my profiles with files. I like slower, more precise. I begin with a large double cut bastard and I drawfile once the profile is done to smooth out and i'm ready to grind the bevels. 

And grinding profiles is pretty hard on belts, I also save money this way.

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2 minutes ago, Cody Killgore said:

That price sounds like ceramic belts. 

Yea they are Ceramic Belts.  

 

2 minutes ago, Joël Mercier said:

Also, even though I have a nice 2x72, I still finish my profiles with files. I like slower, more precise. I begin with a large double cut bastard and I drawfile once the profile is done to smooth out and i'm ready to grind the bevels. 

And grinding profiles is pretty hard on belts, I also save money this way.

I'm going to give it a try with belts.  I don't as of yet have a good set of files that I'd trust.  I have a crappy set of HF files.  I wont use those on knives lol.  I have one good Nicholson file that I use to test for Hardness after hardening the blades.  Eventually I'm going to save up some money and spend a decent amount on a really good set of hand files.  I've still got to invest in a bench vice as well.  One thing I do need even for every day things around the house and I don't yet have.

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