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MikeDT

Simple tomahawk

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Here is something I made for a friend - he wanted it simple with a rust browned/blackened blade.  Handle is hickory 18" long. Blade edge is 3" and 6 1/4" from edge to back of poll (1018 body with a 1075 bit).  Nothing fancy, just a basic hawk using Alan's great tutorial to guide me along.  One of these days I have to try my hand at doing some fancy file work on one. Critiques always appreciated.

tomahawk 3-30-19.jpg

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looks great!

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Thanks, it was the first time I tried a wrapped eye tomahawk.

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I do believe I'm going to steel your simple tomahawk design for my first hatchet when I get to that point.  Did you forge weld the eye piece for the handle or drift it out?

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Looks good Mike

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Your title say simple tomahawk. Sometimes simple is the best expression of something that is more than simple. Outstanding work!

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Thanks for the kind words everyone.

 

AndrewB: I used the wrapped eye (forge weld) method - I just followed Alan's great tutorial (see below).  If you do a wrapped eye like I did, I don't think there is a better tutorial out there.

 

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That's really nice for your first wrapped eye, wish mine had come out that clean. 

Getting into file work will be really fun, it's such a nice way to accent these. A three corner file will be your best friend.

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Daniel, thanks for the tip!  I really like the way the ones that have file work look, so it is definitely on my list.

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I read threw Alans post there - and I would say the only thing I've done different during my file work was that I used a 3 corner file to layout the lines of the file work.  You can use the corner of a flat file - I just found it a little easier to start the line with the smaller file.

It's also a really good idea to take one of your files and grind the teeth off one of the edges to make a 'safe edge.' This way you can avoid the file biting into the borders of raised work. 

It's a challenge as there is very little flat surfaces to work on. If you go for the traditional file work of chevrons and scarf, I usually wind up with the little (x)  at the tip of the chevrons.  Just something that happens from the process, got to find a way to hide it.

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For really critical lines I do use a 3-square with one face ground safe.  It's like an Exacto knife for steel.  It is also necessary to get a true sharp point on an egg-and-dart molding like I used in that thread.  In fact, ALL my files except the half-rounds, needles, and chainsaw files have one safe edge.  It's just too handy a feature to not have.  

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Daniel and Alan - thanks for the advice.  I only have a couple of mini triangle files - now I have a good excuse to buy some nice medium sized triangular files. ;)

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