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Joshua States

A tale of 6 blades.

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On 2/7/2020 at 12:56 AM, Joshua States said:

I found the photo on an old backup drive. https://drive.google.com/open?id=10Gdt5617I-P2gI0ibn-9M70dayXCrcuZ

The guard tail needs to be thinner and straighter on the back side.


Isn’t that the second challenge knife? A photo of the other side is here.

 

6 hours ago, Joshua States said:

Now, using a flexible straight edge (I'm using a piece of acetate)


You could also try one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078VY46KM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_RaOpEbHXTDSNM

at least some of them are made to only bend in one plane, not sure about this exact one.

 

Thanks for keeping going with this. Lots of good info here already.

Edited by Charles dP

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4 hours ago, Charles dP said:

Isn’t that the second challenge knife?

Well looky there. Yep sure is.

 

4 hours ago, Charles dP said:

You could also try one of these:

You can use whatever works. I use the acetate because I have a pad of that in the shop and use it for a variety of functions. It provides a protection layer for fittings on the surface grinder so I do not scratch the faces placing on or removing them from the magnetic chuck. I also use it for protecting the handle material when doming pins. For a flexible measuring system, I use a tailor's tape.

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Just a little bit of progress today.

I have to tell you that the dagger has been taken off the bench for a long while. It will take more time than I have to devote to it right now.

I did make another W2 blade. It will be an EDC take-down. I just realized that I failed to take any photos of the forging or HT process, which is a shame.

Anyway, I drew down the tang and took that to 320 grit today.

 

EDC tang 2.jpg

 

EDC 320 grit.jpg

 

Then I took that big camp knife, fitted a new guard to it (third try is the charm I guess), Drilled the blind pins for the spacer package and got it indexed to the Amboyna block. 

(I drilled and fit the block to the tang Sunday)

 

Spacer package (2).JPG

 

Spacer package (3).JPG

 

I also sanded the blade to 600 grit on the disc and it's ready for handle shaping.

 

Camp Knife fit up.jpg

 

 

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11 hours ago, Joshua States said:

blind pins for the spacer package

 

Now that's something I never considered.

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I probably should have clarified that somewhere. With the exception of the full tang knife, all of these knives have blind pins to align the guard/spacers/handle.

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In that Kyle Royer video, he shows how to do the blind pins in the spacer. He creates the spacer around 7 minutes in, and does the alignment pins at 11:20. He also uses blind pins for the buttcap, (14:30) but he doesn't show how he indexes them to the handle. 

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Thanks for referring me to that video, Josh.  I love watching fine craftsmen doing what they do.  I hadn't seen that one before............not sure how I missed it, but it was a good one.  I've not done any stack-ups that technical, but I can certainly see how important it would be to use locator pins.  My first wood carving knife kept falling apart because I was using the wrong epoxy and the heat of shaping the handle softened it.  As a result, I lost the alignment of the various pieces in the spacer stack-up.  I've a lot to learn............a whole lot.  Thanks for the tip.

 

Looking forward to seeing this camp knife finished.

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Well, Chris got me thinking about doing a little demo of installing blind alignment pins. That Kyle Royer video does a good job showing how you do it with a single spacer (and make it look lie it's multiple spacers), but I like using multiple spacers of different materials and thicknesses. I think it just looks better, and gives me more to embellish. So I came home and shot some pics of the process.

 

As is well established in other posts, I am a 3-element kind of guy. I like using 3 spacers, and I like to match the length of the ricasso to the thickness of the spacer package. It looks "balanced" on opposite sides of the guard that way.

 

The first step is to get the guard and spacers mounted on the tang. At least one of them should be a snug fit with very little or no movement. I generally press set the first spacer that goes against the guard. The other two are close or snug. None of them should be so tight that you have to hammer them off. Stack everything up and get it so the spacers are smooth flush and there are no gaps between them. Hold it up to a bright light and look through from side to side and top to bottom. No light should be visible between any of the fittings.

 

1 Stack.jpg

 

By this point, you should have each of these pieces "tagged" to tell you which one goes on in what order and what orientation. I like to number the upper right corner of the back side (away from the blade) with an up arrow. Lin Rhea uses a center punch and puts a different number of dimples just above the tang slot. Whatever you do, tag each piece so you can always put them back on in the correct orientation. With a 3-piece spacer, it's not too difficult to figure it out without the tags, but when you do a 6 piece spacer......:blink:

 

2 Tags.jpg

 

With everything together, squeeze the package tight and appliy a couple of drops of superglue to the seams between the spacers. Do NOT glue the front spacer to the guard. The guard should be so tight that you need to whack the tang to remove it. This will instantly break the superglue bond.

 

3 glue seams.jpg

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.gif.b8f54b9b2ccd1686bda3dc8a480416b5.gif

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Stage 2.

You can now remove the spacer package as a complete unit and drill your pin holes. I typically use 1/16" pins, but 3/32" pins will also work. I cannot get 1/16" drill bits into my drill press, but my mini-mill can do 1/16" drill bits. It also drill much truer than my drill press. I generally drill through the back spacer to the front. I'll explain why later.

 

4 drill holes.jpg

 

Sometimes the superglue breaks during the drilling and you do not complete the holes. If this happens, put everything back on the tang and insert the pin or pins as far as you can, and glue them together again. I Take the spacer package apart and clean the glue off. First scraping with a razor blade and then lightly sanding with 320 grit. Now I  put everything back on the tang with the pins in place. This makes sure that you have good pin alignment. Recheck the spacers for tight fit and get the spacers package superglued together again. Same as earlier.

5 alligned.jpg

 

Now remove the pins and insert the tang into the handle material. As with the spacer package, this should be a tight flush fit that no light shows through. Glue the last spacer to the handle material at the joint.

6 glue to handle.jpg

 

Now remove the blade and guard. The spacer package is held to the handle material and will work as a guide for you to drill the holes into the handle. These do not have to be too deep. I typically set them less than 1/8" into the handle.

 

7 spacer guides.jpg

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Now insert the pins and cut them off flush with the front spacer, or a little less so they do not interfere with the fit against the guard. You have now installed blind alignment pins.

Now to shape the handle, I do this off the knife. I will soon demonstrate how this is done.

Edited by Joshua States
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I'm paying attention, Josh.  It all makes good sense to me..............just never thought about it.  Many things I've done in my life required alignment pins and I should have realized how much they could help in making knives.

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This afternoon, I got the guard and spacer package set on the take-down EDC. Got the handle block fitted and bedded the tang.

Tang Bedding (1) V2.jpg

 

Tang Bedding (2) V2.jpg

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The bedding went really well. No cleanup to speak of and a very tight fit.

I stole a little time yesterday and today to create the rough finial. I thought I'd share the process.

The tang is threaded for 10/24. So I take a 10/24 hex coupling, put it on a short piece of rod with a small nut, tighten them against each other, and chuck it in a drill.

1 Finial.jpg

 

Then I turn it round against either the flat platen or the disc grinder. I put a short taper on it and measure the fat end with calipers to get it just a few thousandths under 5/16"

 

2 Finial .jpg

 

I have a chunk of nickel-silver that I cast from all my scrap. I cut a piece off and sanded/milled it so all faces are flat, square and parallel.

I then marked off a square section, and the center of it. This gets a 5/16" hole drilled just deep enough to create about 1/32" straight sides.

 

3 Finial.jpg

 

I flux the hole and the fat end of the hex nut and tap it into the hole. Eyeballing it for straight & square. Drop a chunk of silver solder down the tube.

Then I steal off to Liz's workbench and solder that puppy in place.

 

4 Finial.jpg

 

Cut off the excess (save the piece for later) and I have the rough made finial.

 

5 Finial.jpg

Edited by Joshua States
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Onward.

Because this knife will not have a butt cap, I plan on having a bronze washer between the finial and the wooden handle.

So I take a piece of .035" bronze and drill a 5/16" hole in it. On really thin stock like this, the drill bit doesn't make a round hole. It is sort of triangular, and that helps.

Those three points will keep it snug against the stem.

 

6 Finial.jpg

 

After cutting it out square(ish), put it onto a piece of 5/16" threaded rod (or a bolt with the head cut off) and sandwich it between two nuts.

 

7 Finial.jpg

 

Grind down almost to the washer.

8 Finial.jpg

 

Chuck it up in the drill and turn it on the disc or belt grinder, using the washers as a stop point. I find using the slack belt works best for this.

You should now have a snug fitting round washer.

9 Finial.jpg

 

Use that washer as a guide to rough grind the finial and take off the square corners. Then chuck the finial in the drill and repeat to create a round finial.

This can also be done in the drill press or a horizontal drill with a lathe file.

 

10 Finial.jpg

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Brings back memories of before I had a lathe. :)

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Exactly Alan! I now have a lathe, but I thought it would be good to demonstrate how it can be done without one.

Done carefully and slowly, this method gives great results.

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