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AndrewB

I think I'm at the point where I'm willing to give Propane another try...

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Just because you found a thermocouple doesn't mean it will work for this application.  Link?

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That will last a few heats, but it's an exposed junction.  It will react fast, but will not last as long as an enclosed junction.  Depending on how often you use it, maybe a year or two of HT work.

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Well if this hole propane forge thing works out for me I'm going to try using propane for a while.  Plus I wound up spending a bit of extra cash this month and I wound up getting an 8 foot stainless steel braided propane hose as well.  Just gotta get a brass fitting that will go from 3/8 and reduce to 1/4 lol.  At least that will be no more than 5 bucks lol.

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Posted (edited)

Wow for a 50 dollar forge burner I’m kind of shocked at how simply built this item is.  Fortunately for me one of my brass fittings I already had fit the burner connection and fit the 3/8ths inch female end of the propane hose .  No extra money spent.  Now I’m just curious is to how well this is going to work and how I’m going to drill this hole in the fire brick lol since this burner is quite small.  Planning for a side mount for this burner rather than the top.  This seems like a good buy so far.

 

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Edited by AndrewB

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Compare that to a $200 T-rex burner.  Same basic thing, but the T-rex has a sliding choke and a stainless flare.  The performance is nearly identical.  Jock designed the Black Beauty to have a neutral flame at all gas pressures, no choke needed, and no extra flare required.  For $150 less, it is the clear choice for most applications.

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12 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

Compare that to a $200 T-rex burner.  Same basic thing, but the T-rex has a sliding choke and a stainless flare.  The performance is nearly identical.  Jock designed the Black Beauty to have a neutral flame at all gas pressures, no choke needed, and no extra flare required.  For $150 less, it is the clear choice for most applications.

Well that's always a good thing I just gotta figure out how I'm going to do the leak checks since there is no choke on the burner lol.  And I always prefer cheaper rather than spending 200 bucks for one burner lol.  I like the burner just looking at it.  I've been trying to figure out the mounting of it in the brick.  I gotta get some mortar since I have some cinder blocks going to use those as a stand.  But I want to use mortar to secure them to the pavement.  Then Im thinking of using the hard fire bricks on top of that to protect the cinder blocks and then putting the forge on top of that.  So it would be like a permanent forge stand.  I have enough cinder blocks to do that I think at least.  If I don't I have regular brick lol.  I just don't want to build this forge on my wooden cable spool.

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53 minutes ago, AndrewB said:

Well that's always a good thing I just gotta figure out how I'm going to do the leak checks

Cover all the valves in soapy water and if theres anything leaking it will make bubbles.

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21 minutes ago, Conner Michaux said:

Cover all the valves in soapy water and if theres anything leaking it will make bubbles.

I know how to do leak checks lol I just gotta figure out how I'm going to close up the burner so I can do the leak checks.

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I can't believe how in expensive mortar is.  I just picked up a 50 pound bag of it for 6 bucks at HD.  WOW.  This afternoon I plan on getting my stand put together for the forge.  Yep I'm using Mortar and cinder blocks for the base of the stand and stand.  But I will use the hard fire bricks as the top where the actual forge will be siting on.  Then I will move into the soft fire brick.  That should work and at least I will have a pretty secure stand lol.   I wont have to worry about it going anywhere.  I just still can't believe how in expensive it was.

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It may be an UGLY forge stand.  But I used what I had available.  Which was Cinder Blocks and fire bricks.  I had more than enough of the hard fire bricks on hand to do a two layer height of fire brick.  I think that should be more than sufficient to help protect the cinder block stands.  I haven't gotten tot he forge build yet since I've got to wait for the mortar to set and cure not sure how long that actually takes lol.  But at least it's all mortared in place and yes its actually LEVEL LMFAO.  Don't criticize me for building an ugly stand.  I don't care about looks as long as it wont fall over with a lit forge on top I'm happy.

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It will probably be in efficient with one burner but from what I'm hearing from you guys on this burner is that it can handle it.  How ever I think I've come up with the design of the forge and it uses all 15 of the the soft fire bricks that I have.  It is basically a box the inside length is 15 inches height is 5 inches width is about 5 inches.  so 15 by 5 by 5.  It's not refractoried in as of yet.  Unless you guys can suggest something better and more efficient with these bricks I'm all ears.  But this is the design I've come up with using all the bricks with the remaining two used for the doors.

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Its crude yes and I'll probably kick myself in the butt for using refractory to lock the bricks down but yea.  LOL.  Anyhow adapt over come and Improvise lol. So I improvised.  I also went with a 1 brick set up for the smaller chamber instead that should work a lot better than going with a two brick set up.  Either way the bricks are locked in and refractory curing I even got the hole for the burner drilled out.  WOW was that ever the easiest drilling I've ever done in my life.  Yep I think if I decide to stick with propane I'll build the fire brick forges rather than a steel shell.  I like these things.  Not only that I did a burner test fit, It actually stops right at the very edge of the inside of the fire brick which makes it extremely nice.  So Far so good.  Its an ugly looking forge YES but I'm pretty sure it will hold the heat in quite well when I put the doors on.

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One door only, venturi burners do not work with back pressure from closed doors all round. 

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7 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

One door only, venturi burners do not work with back pressure from closed doors all round. 

Okay only one door? I'll definately remember that one.  I will use the door on the back end in case I have bigger pieces.  I put a test piece one that I was playin with a test billet in the forge to judge the size of space and there is plenty of room in there for what I need.  I was kind of surprised that the fire brick held the burner in place with out it falling out the back at all.  I just gotta let everything cure before I do a test fit with everything including the propane tank on the floor and all hooked up to the burner.  I should be okay with the burner side mounted like that right?

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The burner will be fine on the side.  You will probably want to check how well it fits in that brick after it is heated up, and after the forge cycles from full temp to cold a few times.  I suspect it will loosen up.

Check the instruction sheet that came with the burner.  I believe it recommends leaving about 1" between the end of the burner tube and the inside of the forge.  (ie you may need to bull your burner back out of the fire brick a little bit)

To add a bit to what Alan said, you can have a door on both ends, but be careful not to block off either opening 100% if you do.  I have doors on both ends to help retain some heat, but neither closes all the way.  (Well, one end isn't a door, it is a 1' high x 2.5" wide opening in the back)

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I'll have to double check that @Brian Dougherty.  That does sound about right.  I gouged out just enough of the material from the brick for the burner to sit in perfectly.  I'm not sure how much that will change with the thermal cycling that brick will do.  I will definitely be able to tell if it loosens up when I do the first test run of this forge.

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