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Conner Michaux

Scandinavian grind

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Usually people refer to it as the Scandi grind, I think.. Ive got a few questions concerning this grind, If I'm understanding it correctly, This is two bevels without the secondary bevel, used for bushcraft and outdoor stuff. And to my questions, After heat treating a knife with a scandi grind, how would I proceed to sharpen it?? You guys know I don't have a grinder, So do I just use a sharpening stone to remove the rest of the material, till its sharp?Thats called a zero grind right? Ive heard people around the forum talk about the bevels on a knife being at zero... Is that when theres enough material removed from the bevels, To make it sharp, Before you actually start to sharpen it? I hope you guys can understand this!

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Yep, that's pretty much it. 

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Posted (edited)

Okay great, Thanks! Oh ive got one more question, On a lot of professionally made bushcraft knives like this one in the picture, The grind only comes up about a 1/4-1/2 inch wouldn't you guys consider that a noob grind? Or is that the best way to make the scandi grind?     Sorry for my never ending questions! :D Is it better to use Diamond, or wet-stones for this?

ks11804.jpg

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Im thinking of getting something like this, after heat treating I would rub it on the bevels like I would when I hand sand. http://www.baryonyxknife.com/byamupost.html

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Typical scandi is 11° per side. That makes just shy of 3/8" wide bevels for an 1/8" thick blade. Adjust per your needs 

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Better to rub the blade over a stone rather than the other way around IMO. More control that way. The bigger the stone the better. You could cut a flat on that round stone grinding wheel I think you said you had for getting into the plunge. Just need a masonry wheel on an angle grinder. You'd need proper eye protection and dust mask or respirator if you've got it. Don't want ceramics in your lungs. Good luck! 

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I do have a masonry wheel, The only reason I don't like using that bench grinder stone, It makes some really deep gouges in the steel that are really hard to sand out, And the knife will already be heat treated so the sandpaper doesn't do much, but I can try.

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10 hours ago, Conner Michaux said:

 On a lot of professionally made bushcraft knives like this one in the picture, The grind only comes up about a 1/4-1/2 inch wouldn't you guys consider that a noob grind?

That knife probably has a very thin thin blade, only way it'll work.  4mm or under.

Before I open the can of worms, the Mora Bushcraft Black is my favourite and most used knife. I've often said if I can make a knife complete with sheath as good as that overall, I'd be doing well....

That said, I almost immediately put a micro bevel on it and don't bring it close to any vegetables.....except if you have no other knife.

The way I see it "Scandi grind" is just a simple way to make a knife when you need nothing more that to work soft woods and slice apart reindeer :D

 

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15 hours ago, Conner Michaux said:

Usually people refer to it as the Scandi grind, I think.. Ive got a few questions concerning this grind, If I'm understanding it correctly, This is two bevels without the secondary bevel, used for bushcraft and outdoor stuff. And to my questions, After heat treating a knife with a scandi grind, how would I proceed to sharpen it?? You guys know I don't have a grinder, So do I just use a sharpening stone to remove the rest of the material, till its sharp?Thats called a zero grind right? Ive heard people around the forum talk about the bevels on a knife being at zero... Is that when theres enough material removed from the bevels, To make it sharp, Before you actually start to sharpen it? I hope you guys can understand this!

to sharpen a true scandi grind, you lay the entire bevel on the stone.  very simple.  i dont like secondary bevels on a scandi.  seems to defeat the purpose.  

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Thanks for the info guys! I really would be lost without this forum.. :lol:

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