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I do have access to a drill press, but it’s at my neighbors house, and he is on a vacation right now. So I’ll use a hand drill, les hope this works 

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Posted (edited)

Ive got about a half inch of tang left to get in the handle, But I can't get the dang knife out of it, I tapped it in with a mallet to see if it would fit all the way in, but nope. And now its stuck.

What do you do in this situation?? I don't want to break the knife. Can I pour a little bit of water into the hole? Or will that make the grain swell?

Edited by Conner Michaux

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Water will lock it in tight, so no.  So will oil.  Tape the blade and clamp it down, then use a piece of wood and a hammer to gently drive the handle off.  Wood between handle and hammer.

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Yep, what Alan said will get it apart. Don’t take hulk swings at it, either... small, easy taps should do the trick. Might take a bit longer, but you’ll be much less likely to break or bend something 

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okay thanks.

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About and hour later, and no progress.. not even a centimeter. I tried lightly tapping it, and then actually hitting it, and then wacking the crap out of it.  Nothing!  I didn't use almost any force what soever to get the tang in there, in the first place.

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Posted (edited)

You got the blade clamped good? 

I could easily see someone hitting the back of the handle while holding it in the hand in an attempt to jar the handle loose, but this wont work. You will drive the handle on further. I first saw Torbjörn Åman (check his YouTube,  and sorry if I misspelled) do this sort of thing when driving an axe handle on. He strikes it from the end of the handle into the eye in mid air. Pretty geniuse. Its gentle on everything. The heavy axe head would rather stay put than move with the handle's friction. 

Just wanted to say be careful what forces you apply; it might turn out counter intuitive...

Edited by Zeb Camper

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Finally conquered this stubborn tang! And finished fitting it up to. Now I need to shape the handle, etch, and sharpen the blade.   This is where a belt grinder would come in handy...    I think once it’s gluing up, I’m go to shove some wood putty into the hole to close the gap at the top.   And I’ll fix the other damage with wood putty too. 

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This handle shaping is going suspiciously well, something is gonna happen.... I bet you all can relate.. Here is where I’m at, the handle looks a little wonky, but I don’t want to do anything else to it because it’s really comfortable in my hand, so I’m just gonna sand it up to 600 and call it good.   Critique??

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I sanded the handle to 400. What can I do to give it a somewhat shiny polish?

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Finally the ferric arrived, found a quart of it for 20$ on Amazon.   The bottle says it’s ready to use and it doesn’t need to be diluted, lots of reviews also said that, so I’m gonna go ahead and test etch the puukko.

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On 5/7/2019 at 2:24 PM, Conner Michaux said:

I sanded the handle to 400. What can I do to give it a somewhat shiny polish?

Burnishing could be a good option. The general idea is to raise "whiskers" on the surface of the wood, then remove them. My personal method is to wet the wood, dry it with a hairdryer, then scrub it with steel wool. I repeat that until the surface of the wood stays smooth when it gets wet. When oiled, this makes for a fairly glossy finish.

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It doesn't need dilution to etch copper, true.  I think you will find it helps to dilute it for use on steel.  Remember people who comment on Amazon are the same subhuman idiots who comment on Youtube.

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Alright, Ill dilute some of it, 1 cup ferric 4 cups water?. ive heard people do it that way.

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That will work.  Use distilled water, tap water has stuff in it that can mess with the etch.  I usually do mine at 3:1, but 4:1 is fine.  You'll get a better etch.

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Posted (edited)

Okay, I know you can get distilled water by boiling it, can I do that?  

And what kind of container should I use to mix it in? Can it be held in a regular glass? 

Edited by Conner Michaux

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If you try to make distilled water, you need to be able to catch and condense the steam coming off the pot.  That's the distilled part, not whats left in the pot.  It would be way easier to just buy a gallon at walmart, it'll only cost you a couple bucks.  You can mix and store it in pretty much any glass or plastic container, just don't use metal.

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Alright, I’ve got everything I need to finish this thing, but the knife is stuck in the handle again, I tapped it I’m there to much and now it’s looking like it’s not coming out, I’ve been trying to get it out for hours now. Handle is just about finished, the blade is done. Since this handle is not going to come off the tang, I’m thinking I might have to finish it with the handle on, I’ll pour some acetone into the tang hole and once it’s dry I’ll pour the epoxy In there, the only problem is going to Be sharpening, The only way I can sharpen my knives is with one of them Wicked edge systems, but the stones have a little shoulder on either side of the stone, so I won’t be able to sharpen the blade all the way. I’m considering filling off that shoulder, but then that disqualifies it from warranty, Incase it ever breaks, because I’m “modifying/tampering with the product” 

but filling off the shoulders may be my only choice.

And I’ll have to wrap some of the handle I’m tape so I can re etch the blade.

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I was at it for another hour today, that handle hasn’t budged a centimeter, so I said screw it and decided I was gonna finish this thing with the handle on, blade is re etched, looks great! And I sanded the handle to 600g and then I did That burnishing thing, and it’s ready to be glued up, but at this point, I don’t think it needs to be glued, but I’ll do it anyway. I’m Gonna use One of them cotton balls on a stick (not sure what there called)   With some acetone on it to degrease the tang hole. 

So yeah, that’s where I’m at right now.

Oh yeah, and I diluted the ferric 3:1   And the results are much much better. 

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