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Conner Michaux

O1 round stock?

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I’m going to be able to start forging again soon, because I’m getting a canopy to put over my forging area. 

I need some steel, I don’t have the strength to forge bar stock down to blade size, so I’m thinking round stock may be easer to forge than that. I’ve been wanting to make some carving knives and maybe a spoon carving knife, I’ve heard them called Sloÿd knives, what exactly does that mean?   I forget if the accent goes over the Y or the O 

Okay now to my question, carving knives are pretty small, and I’ve seen a few people on Instagram forge them out of 1/4 o1 round stock, there are a lot of places online to get it, but none of those websites supply steel for knives, so I’m not sure if it’s safe to use. So my question is, where is the best place to get o1 round?  I know people use w1 (or is it w2?)   Round. Can you get it from the same place?  I want to forge a set of carving/ sloyd, what ever there called, so a little detail work blade, a bigger carving knife for material removal, and then the most challenging.... the hook knife.   

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Ive used music wire with good results, its something like 1080-1095. It can be found in some hardware stores or hobby shops that sell r/c planes, k&s metals sells it, it could be found locally. Ive paid $3-5 for 3ft x 1/4".

I think O1 is air hardening, i would expect that to cause problems with such tiny blades. 

 

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O1 WILL air harden in thin sections.... Ask me how I know ( and how many times I have forgotten that fact )  But you are good if you get the O1 drill rod stock that is widely available online... 

 

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I would go for the W1 drill rod, it is much easier to finish since it doesn't air harden.  It's also a bit cheaper.

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Okay w1 it is, where should I get it? 

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MSCdirect, McMaster-Carr, Fastenal, your local industrial supply house...  They call it water-hard drill rod, but don't try water quenching it in blade form.  

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Alright, thanks for the help.

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I buy all of my O-1 and W-1 drill rod from MSCDIRECT.com. 1/4" diameter is pretty small. By the time you forge that flat to 1/8" thick, it will only be about 3/8" wide. You realize that don't you?

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Yeah, I did realize that, these first carving knives I forge are going to be very small very thin for detail work, and then I’m going to get some half inch and maybe some 3/4 for bigger blades. 

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For puukkos, I have used Buffalo Precision Products for O1 round stock 1/2” - 36” long for $7.92 plus shipping. Fairly cheap, but it’s a lot heats and pounding to draw out the round stock. Easier with barstock, say 3/16” x 1” x 18” for 15-18 dollars plus shipping. I like the way O1 performed and Silver Steel is just too expensive. However you can push 1084 barstock same size a heck of a lot easier.

As Alan stated, if you can get music wire, in drill rod steels, locally you can save the ship costs.

Gary LT

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Okay thanks, While we're on the topic of steel, Im going to forge a Yakut blade out of an old file, its either Simonds. save edge or nicholson, I know Nicholsons are 1095, And I know its one of those three files, but I'm not 100% sure which one (because I forgot and am to lazy to walk out to the shed)   Any idea what steel those brands of files are?  Its a Multi-cut and its pretty old.

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Like all good old files, it's going to be a shallow-hardening high carbon steel, either 1095, W1, or W2.  And some of my best files are older than you are, ;), so "pretty old" is relative.  There's no way to tell the difference between them by looking, spark-testing, or other easy test, but luckily the heat treatment for all three is the same.  Triple-normalize, warm oil quench from 1450 (decalescence for these steels), temper for desired final hardness.  The only thing you really have to worry about is that big single fuller, it's going to cause warping.  Be prepared for that.  

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Yeah  I’m guessing it’ll warp, I’m gonna leave it kind of thick so I can attempt to grind out what ever I can’t fix in the temper.

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On 5/18/2019 at 12:21 PM, Conner Michaux said:

Yeah  I’m guessing it’ll warp, I’m gonna leave it kind of thick so I can attempt to grind out what ever I can’t fix in the temper.

I’ve found that if you put the blade between two planks after the quench and stand on it/clamp it you can prevent some of the warping you get with the asymmetric grind. 

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Okay I’ll try it, thanks!

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