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Garry Keown

Presentation box plus knife and gun

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Another piece of equipment I needed to make was for something to accurately form the discs to the shape of the knife handle and the 1911 grips so after a coulpe of atempts I came up with this. 

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12 hours ago, Garry Keown said:

I came up with this. 

Quick hit with a hammer, or do you squeeze (press/vise)?  Looks nice.  

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I agree, nice tooling!  And I think the bronze nails are nicer than black epoxy would be, plus you could set them flush if wanted.

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8 hours ago, Jerrod Miller said:

Quick hit with a hammer, or do you squeeze (press/vise)?  Looks nice.  

I am going to pick up some (un engraved) practice discs when I am down to the city on tues and will try both ways. I may set some pins in the die (the dished part)  and a corresponding hole in the form (round bar) so that a straight down press may work as well. I have been thinking of ways to ensure I get the disc orientation right and think I will lay some masking tape on the bench (sticky side up) and I can then set the disc on that the right way,  overlay the face so the disc is enclsed in the tape then I only have to lay the taped disc square to the form die. 

6 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

I agree, nice tooling!  And I think the bronze nails are nicer than black epoxy would be, plus you could set them flush if wanted.

I intend to countersink slightly so the head is burried to half the edge thickness.

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6 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

I agree, nice tooling! 

Yeah, what he said.

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9 hours ago, Joshua States said:

Yeah, what he said.

The way I bend silver inlays to fit the curve of a tomahawk handle is to put the silver on a piece of leather in a large-radius half-round groove in the swedge block, then press it by hand with the hawk eye drift.  Usually works well, but precise and repeatable it ain't. ;)

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6 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

The way I bend silver inlays to fit the curve of a tomahawk handle is to put the silver on a piece of leather in a large-radius half-round groove in the swedge block, then press it by hand with the hawk eye drift.  Usually works well, but precise and repeatable it ain't. ;)

I have polished the die and form to prevent marking the discs Alan but do have some fine upholstery leather if they need more protection. My main concern is getting the logo oriented correctly and that is the main function of the tape. Are your discs engraved or plain to allow customer engraving. 

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Mine are rarely discs, usually ovals, diamonds, or stars since those are relatively easy to orient.  And I always press them before engraving so I can file off any excess after inletting.  I then engrave them in place, but you could probably do the inletting and carefully remove the piece to engrave afterwards.  Might take a little bit of fixturing with Bondo or epoxy, that's what I do with flintlock parts that would be impossible (well, annoying as heck) to engrave in place.  

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10 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

Mine are rarely discs, usually ovals, diamonds, or stars since those are relatively easy to orient.  And I always press them before engraving so I can file off any excess after inletting.  I then engrave them in place, but you could probably do the inletting and carefully remove the piece to engrave afterwards.  Might take a little bit of fixturing with Bondo or epoxy, that's what I do with flintlock parts that would be impossible (well, annoying as heck) to engrave in place.  

Mine will have to be RIGHT first time Alan as they are engraved before I start. It is the small 18mm discs I have to curve and orientate correctly. The large disc and the two tags will be pinned on the box under lidIMG_20190712_155935.jpg

 

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Yeah, I realized that right after I hit the "post" button.  Makes things a bit more difficult, but you can certainly do it.

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Old school hinge fitting using butt and marking guages to mark in depths and a sharp chisel to cut it out. Next is some locks to cut in then I can put the finish oils on the wood. Still lots to do yet on the boxes with fitting the felt lining getting makers mark done and pinning tags in place. Then it wi be the daunting task of inletting the discs in the knife handles and 1911 gripsets. 

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So @Garry Keown  masters can do that, and idiots should stick to stabilized woods :lol:

Looking good........ B) 

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Finished the hinges today and got a the boxes all sanded then marked and drilled for my makers mark done with the silicon bronze nail heads. Spent a couple of hours making jigs to inlet for the locks but put that asside till another day as I wanted to get a coat of BLO on the boxes to show any sanding misses. I thought I woud make a start on a seperate knife with a blank disc just to prove the method but the tool I had asked the engineers make (to his sugested design)  was not up to the job so had to go down (about a 1/2hr away) with a drawing for what I wanted and will pick it up next week.
This is the boxes with a coat of BLO drying over night. They will get a more protective finish than the BLO later in the finishing stages. To round out the day I got the first inserts covered with the felt so pleased with the progress so far.

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Changed horses for a few hours and got the inserts lined.

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Go man Go! This is looking great Garry.

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Got two of the locks fitted after lunch after getting the jigs sorted.

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The felt looks good.  Was that done with sheets of felt?  Anytime I try to do something like that I end up with a gluey felty mess...

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8 hours ago, Brian Dougherty said:

The felt looks good.  Was that done with sheets of felt?  Anytime I try to do something like that I end up with a gluey felty mess...

Yes I bought a few meters of each colour for the job. I had done a couple of long gun cases so had an idea of how to go about it. Spray contact  and a tin of iquid contact glue with a bamboo skewer to re touch some areas but having a jar of thiners to dip finger tips in when they get glue on them is the way I keep from getting the top side of the felt marked.

This was one I did for a Martini I restocked and didn't have a cary case long enough for so the only soution was to make one.

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Edited by Garry Keown
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What a lovely Martini!  What caliber?  Doesn't look like .577-450...  always liked those, but the only one I ever had a chance at was an old BSA .22 rebored for .410 shotgun, which is just silly.

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18 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

What a lovely Martini!  What caliber?  Doesn't look like .577-450...  always liked those, but the only one I ever had a chance at was an old BSA .22 rebored for .410 shotgun, which is just silly.

Yes it is a 577.450. I restocked a few of them but the rest were in 303 Brit. One in the military carbine, one as the early sporting rifle and a K HornetPhoto0881.jpgPhoto2452 Martini sporter in 303.jpgPhoto1310 Euans Martini Hornet.jpg as a modern sporter

 

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I agree, nice rifles!  Thanks for the tip about dipping the fingers in solvent.  I'll remember that one.

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A show of the knives for the presentation boxes on the coIours they wiII be on. Still have to inlet the discs and do the handIe finishing so this is just a taster pic. Ebony on blue, walnut on green and curly macro on red. 

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WOW.......this just turned into p o r n :lol:

Stunning work......and the rifles......that's also art in my book.

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11 minutes ago, Gerhard Gerber said:

WOW.......this just turned into p o r n :lol:

Stunning work......and the rifles......that's also art in my book.

Thanks Gerhard. For quite a while it seemed I was a stockmaker who occasionally made knives and now it seems the other way arround. Either way it is my happy place

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Nearly there

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