KITH WIP Tanto

[Alan Longmire 1,790]

33 minutes ago, Brian Dougherty said:

  This lesson is worth more than you can possibly realize!

I very rarely go near power tools with handles anymore other than maybe a spindle sander.  You can go from "Too much material" to "Where did all my handle go?" in the blink of an eye.

Indeed.  Then again, a 60-grit belt will turn a 28" long 2x2 into an axe handle in about two minutes.  Of course, it then takes about 20 minutes to get all the 60-grit scratches out...

[Conner Michaux 157]

How much heat can epoxy take? I’m going to roughly shape the handle close to final dimension, and then glue the spacer to the handle so I can use the handle facets as a reference for the copper facets. But copper gains heat way faster than the wood, and that might melt the epoxy. I use gflex if that makes a difference. 

2 hours ago, Brian Dougherty said:

This lesson is worth more than you can possibly realize

Lesson of the day was Grind slow. 

Edited September 30 by Conner Michaux

[Alan Longmire 1,790]

I haven't used Gflex, but most epoxies let go at around 250 degrees F.  Some, like Accraglass and the putties, whats'it's weld and such, can take up to around 500.  Heat causing epoxy to release is such a reliable thing that when I engrave small parts I just epoxy them to a block of wood in the vise, do the engraving, and hit the part with a torch flame for one second.  Pops right off with no residue.  

[Conner Michaux 157]

Thanks, I’m going to try it out, I’ll clamp the spacer to the wood so it doesn’t slide off, I’ll try cooling it down in water as well. 

[Alex Middleton 260]

Go for it Connor.  Just take it slow, cool it often,  and pay attention to the spacer.  If it starts to slide under the pressure of the clamp, stop and fix it before going any farther.

[Alan Longmire 1,790]

And know that once heat breaks the bond, that's it.  It does not re-stick as it cools.  That's why we use pins for stuff like that. 

[Conner Michaux 157]

Success  I’m provably going to put more of an “aggressive” angle on the facets on the back side of the handle. 

Once I have the facets ground on the copper I’m going to melt the epoxy and pull the spacer off, then I can sand it, break the edges, and buff it without effecting the wood. 

Edited September 30 by Conner Michaux

[Brian Dougherty 668]

looks nice an even

[Conner Michaux 157]

Thanks, I’m going to try and make the facets somewhat convex, right now it feels An day looks a little bit blocky. 

[Zeb Camper 625]

Looks like the geometry of a tanto I did a little bit ago. Lemme go find it. 

That one^^

That design is comfy if you just make more facets. 

Edited October 1 by Zeb Camper

[Conner Michaux 157]

I’m probably going to end up making more facets, it’s just nerve wracking using the sander, one little moment I’m not paying attention and BOOM there is no more handle. 

Edited October 1 by Conner Michaux

[Zeb Camper 625]

Didn't I once say you weren't ready for a grinder at the time? Now you see? But I think you're ready now. You know how a knife should look, and hopefully wont accept less from yourself now. Unfortunately its still practice makes perfect.

Good luck man!

[Conner Michaux 157]

Thanks Zeb! And thanks to the other forumites for tolerating as being patient with me and my ongoing stream of questions   

 

ive figure out what I’m going to do for the facets, Im drawing it out right now and I’ll get a pic up here soon.

[Brian Dougherty 668]

If you want to convx the facets, don't use a grinder.  Set the handle up in a vice and use a strip of 120 grit paper in a "shoe-shine" motion.  That'll curve over those facets in a couple of minutes with very little threat of going too far.

Edited October 1 by Brian Dougherty

[Bruno 67]

19 hours ago, Conner Michaux said:

one little moment I’m not paying attention and BOOM there is no more handle.

Lol,  think we have all been there.

Someone once said "Start with your weak side because it will be easier to match with your strong side "',  regarding grinding that is.

[Conner Michaux 157]

Looking better and feeling a heck of a lot better in the hand.

[Conner Michaux 157]

Another minute or so on the grinder and this handle is finished with the right shaping faze. Very similar to the knife in the link Zeb posted up there some where.  Total of 10 facets. 

Edited October 1 by Conner Michaux

[Will Wilcox 197]

Looks pretty good, Conner. Nice work. 

[Conner Michaux 157]

Here is where we are at, spacer is very close to finish size, and handle is also nearly done, but I can’t seem to get the spacer to fit up flat to the handle, so I might cut a very thin leather spacer out to outback under the copper, the flexibility of the leather should make up for the small gap. I’ll mix up extra epoxy so I can soak the leather In it.

Edited October 2 by Conner Michaux

[Conner Michaux 157]

Today’s progress, I epoxied the spacer to the handle, SUCCESSFULLY ground in the facets and only about 5 mistakes that will have me sanding for a while, melted the spacer off, burned my finger somewhat badly, and I’ll be sanding everything up this evening

Edited October 2 by Conner Michaux

[Zeb Camper 625]

For future reference, that disc comes in handy for making flats. Set the table with a square and use the right hand side (the side that turns downward) to get a nice flat surface. Careful not to let it sit there and burn the wood. You save abrasives that way. 

[Conner Michaux 157]

Sanding all the copper facets to 800 or 1000 and then buffing, not going for a mirror finish but I want it to be shiny. 

Edited October 3 by Conner Michaux

[Conner Michaux 157]

What’s the best way to removed cured epoxy squeeze out? 

[Chad Scott 28]

If it is fully cured the safest thing is probably to take the finest file you have and slowly go at it. Then sandpaper once the bulk is off.

[Alan Longmire 1,790]

I very carefully scrape with an exacto knife, then sand. Unless there's a lot, then the file comes out like Chad said.